Guru1 Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 I read that 2 people lost some screws from the Blacksteel bezel. That really scared me to wear my Balcksteel anymore and I started to checkout the screws on the bezel. Surprise surprise, 4 of the screws were already loose. On the V2 version, the bezel is pressed on to the watch, so the screws are just decoys / dummies and I believe they have been glued into the bezel with cheap chinese glue. So much for :All parts of the watch can be totally interchangeable with the genuine watch My idea was to take the screws out of the bezel and glue them back in.When I say loose I mean that the screw would wind to the left and to the right side.That happens when you use a screw which is too small for the hole. I could move the screws left and right, but they didn't come out.So what to do? My idea was to take the screws out of the bezel and glue them back in. Here was the problem, how do I get them out? I already tried to move them out with a blade but that could scratch the bezel. Then finally this morning I had the idea to use the stuff I use for opening up the watch cases, Plasticine / modeling material. And here we go, the screws came out easy without scratching the bezel. The next step was to get the screws back in and I tried with loctide, but that didn't work because there are no threads in the holes of the bezel. So I used some super glue. With super glue you need to be careful that you do not get any of this stuff on the outside of the bezel, it will ruin it and you will see it. What to use to apply the glue? I used a black oiler and it worked fine. I got all screws back in and now I can enjoy my watch again. My advise to all Blacksteel owner, check your screws on the bezel, I don't think you can get any screws from our dealers, if you can, they probably charge you 25 USD for one, and loosing a screw I would say ruins the watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheaton26 Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 i've been meaning to post this same thing. thanks for the tips! mine is off to The Zigmeister soon for a re-lume so i'll see if he can do this as well. all the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbox7 Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Is this apparent on all Blacksteels, regardless of dealer? Thanks for the heads up - mine is on its way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guru1 Posted March 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Is this apparent on all Blacksteels, regardless of dealer? Thanks for the heads up - mine is on its way Yes, check it out before you wear it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbox7 Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Awesome tips... Some questions (excuse me if these sound newbish...) 1. What is a black oiler? 2. How did you put the screws back? Using the plasticine, or can you just drop them back into the hole? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 I think this also applies to all the recent AeroMarine (Skyland, Fish, etc) series reps. I was planning on doing something similar, and although these bezels are a PITA to R&R, I still think the best course is to pop the bezel off and access them from back side. If I get around to doing it, I would try and peen them on the inside, and perhaps a dab of epoxy/JB weld. Loctite has been recommended before, but most Loctite formulas only cure in the absence of air ~ala threads. Your solution, however, is my backup plan, and a good one. -Ronin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 As was stated sometime ago in a thread far .. far .. away..... these screws are non functioning threaded thingi's and I have tried locktite before .. but that would mean the screw actually tightens.. which these faux threaded screws will not do.. they just keep spinning.. as all the Skyland bezel screw do.. using super glue runs the risk of the very thin liquid seaping into the bezel.. locking it in place.. my solution was using "Rubber Cement" .. the type they use in grade school.. now, this is not the white glue.. but the thick opaque one that comes ina bottle with a brush.. "Elmers no-wrinkle Rubber Cement" it dries into a "gummy" paste.. so it will hold the screw in place without running into the bezel,, just use a toothpick to apply some of it to the screw,, the end of the threading nearer to the head of the screw..this way if you need to remove the screw (for what ever reason) you can .. I believe this resembles what they may use at the factory.. but do not do an adequate job of it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbox7 Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Lani - do you need to take off the screws or the bezel to apply the rubber cement? I'm guessing I take off the screws like Guru1, apply the rubber cement near the head of the screw where it sits on the bezel and place it back? If I get rubber cement on the bezel/watch, can I wipe it off without it leaving a mark? I want to make sure I do this right the first time Much thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Rubber Cement-- Good Idea, and if it gets on the outside of the bezel, it jut rubs right off and should not leave a mark. Still-- does anyone have advice or experience R&Ring the entire Bezel? Ziggy? Popping them in and out will probably expand the holes a bit and compress the 'plugs' a bit, possibly making the problem worse or 100% reliant on good adhesive. -Ronin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 I use JB Weld for this kind of job.. its incredibly strong and fills gaps well so the joint doesn't need to be accurate. Its fairly clean to use and set slow enough to be easy to position parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guru1 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Awesome tips... Some questions (excuse me if these sound newbish...) 1. What is a black oiler? 2. How did you put the screws back? Using the plasticine, or can you just drop them back into the hole? Thanks! 1.The black oiler is the smallest oiler which watchmakers use to oil the movement. 2: Placed the scrue with a tweezer over the hole and then used a screwdriver to apply some pressure on it To all: The holes on my bezel were closed at the end, so the glue cannot run into the hole and glue the bezel to the watch. But you may want to check it on yours. And when you remove the bezel, you cannot apply glue from behind, because the hole is closed. And I am not sure if you will get the bezel back on. Oilers work just fine, you can't get too much glue on it. I made once the mistake to glue the inlay of a Seamaster bezel on and the glue came between bezel and watch, my son was really happy about that. This is how you learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Error Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 any way! hope I get one black soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 And when you remove the bezel, you cannot apply glue from behind, because the hole is closed. And I am not sure if you will get the bezel back on. Ahhh, GREAT Information. I almost used mine as the lab rat... Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 you can also use a 2 part epoxy.. it is thick and will not run.. no worries on the excess glue on the bezel.. it comes right off with radico.. use the radico to wipe it right away and then press the radico in place for a minute.. until the screw is secure.. keep it simple.. removing the bezel can be problematic unless your experienced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 sorry double post.. new mobile modum.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hackR Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 @Guru1 and/or others... great information...my Blacksteel arrived on Saturday, but i put it away immediately...why?...b/c my HKTan red/black is arriving this week...didn't want to spoil the watch before i mounted the red/black strap!...so timely for me... question: is there ANY glue holding the screws in from the factory?...do i need to loosen them by turning them left/right before using plasticine to remove them?... thanks - R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Some of mine have some "sticktion", if that is a word, others just freewheel and I can use a finger nail to move them. I have boxed mine until I have time to "cement" the faux screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hackR Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 @RoninQ - how did you remove yours?...i think i'm going to follow Lani's lead on the rubber cement...R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 I actually followed the Guru1's lead above, except my Duct Tape Sticky Ball did the trick. I am on the fence when it comes to Rubber Cement -vs- a 2 Part Epoxy like a JB Weld. (In hind site, I have to say for a $400+ rep, the factory needs to do a better job here, these "plugs" are just waiting to pop. At least a real screw could easily be loctited) -Ronin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eunomians Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 +1 for JB Weld Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 My black steel arrived today and sure enough.. loose screws. I definitely owe you a huge thanks for the heads up on this. The JB Weld will be coming out tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hackR Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 re: JB Weld...questions, bloody questions... are there different types?... is it a 2 part epoxy that you mix and apply?... is Lani's suggestion of a toothpick application the route most go?... and please excuse my ignorance, but what is Radico?...i would be worried about wiping off any excess - so is Radico (??) or something else recommended? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 JB Weld is a very high strength 2 part epoxy with metal powder mixed in for stiffness, strength and hardness. There is a fast and slow set variety. Its pretty easy to work with, and cleans up easily while its still soft. It is gap filling and doesn't shrink while drying like some rubber cements do. A toothpick would be ldeal for applying it. I wouldn't use an oiler unless you never plan to oil with it. You could contaminate the oils if any adhesive if left on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hackR Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 @Logan -- thanks!... @all -- question: only 3 of 8 screws turn...the others do not...i plan to remove them all and use jb weld...besides plasticine, is there another way to get them out easier and safely?...the ones that are loose, do not come out when i press tape on them...sounds like plasticine might grip it enough to coax them out...but any other ideas that don't hurt the case, would be helpful... R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Some have actually used a razor blade to carefully get behind the head and pop them out. Sounds like you have some good tight ones. GL, -Ronin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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