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I've been away for quite sometime, though sorry to hear TTK (Neal) might no longer be with us, I dropped out about the time Neal got banned. One of you mentioned The Zigmeister, thought he stopped doing rep repairs. Ubiquitous and I met some years ago for sushi in Manhattan Beach, great fellow. So many great people on this forum, Star (Tim) TommyQ, George in Greece and the list goes on. I was recently reinvigorated by accidentally stumbling on to TC's blog...I'm agast, something ethereal happened, before I could gain self control I had ordered his rendition of the very stunning 16610 LV...anxiously awaiting, must have !!!!! As an aside to the banned FROG SCHMUCK as I type this my wrist time is occupied with a 116613 also have a gen. Sub R serial and. Brietling Avenger and many fine reps. Cheers to all, nice to be back. I wear them all with equal Pride

If you've ever reshaped a mid case, one of the toughest mods to do properly is being able to cut bevels that have crisp/sharp edges. Here's an example of stock Yuki 5513 case lugs. Note how the edges are slightly rounded and the satin finishing on the top of the lugs have bled over to the bevel itself. Not cool: After spending some time on my lapping machine, here's what (I think) bevels on a 5513 should look like. Lugs have been slightly thinned, repolished, satinized, and bevels cut last:

Gedi does nice work. Well done and interesting plexi. Sent from the my iPhone using Tapatalk s

Very cool.

Alright guys this is not RWG bz let's not do a roast here (they are very funny at it there !) give the guy chance to get over his mistake.

As usual scales are for measuring weights, in this case the weights of my 3 watches

Love it! It was a pleasure helping someone who knew what they wanted and were determined to do it and do it right, with a personal twist Congratulations and welcome to the 1675 build club What's next?!!

"New York" by Lou Reed

Automatico, I have the spacer to fit a presidents dial to your case. Had a couple left over from late 90's to early 2000's when i was building solid18K presidents

You are absolutely correct though. The mark of success in the oil patch was a Gold DD and a pair of Alligator boots!! Back in the "gook old days" we had a Rolex dealer here in our little town. The lady that owned the business told me that she sold more Gold DD's than all other Rolex watches combined. Of course back then, you could get a brand new DD with the Gold "president" bracelet for around 4 K. Now I think the bracelet alone is more than that. Matt built a Gold DD for me with a genuine dial, crown, crystal and bezel, great watch. The only problem is his cases are sterile, no engraving, so it has that "tell" if you wear it on a strap, otherwise it's perfect. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have you thought to go for a different brand? I.e. give a look to this one: http://www.torobravos2014.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_49&product_id=931 Or this (but beware this model is with no AR coating on the glass): http://www.torobravos2014.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=75_150&product_id=1026 They're both classy but not too "old style".

I agree with dtm above, you might go tutone. I put a few tt DJ together using steel replica DJ cases that will accept genspec sapphire crystals and case tubes with swisseta 2836 with date wheel overlay plus genuine or good aftmkt dials and they all turned out just fine. I used solid gold genuine or aftmkt fluted or smooth bezels, genuine crowns and aftmkt ss/14k jubilee bracelets with replica clasps. Always use metal spacers with case clamps and screws to hold the movement solidly in place (no plastic spacers!), check them for wr down to about 30m and the watches will be trouble free. They will end up costing around $1500 at today's gold prices but if you get good deals on the bracelet and bezel you can take the watch apart and sell the parts and get most of your $$ back in a few years if you decide to sell out. It's hard to tell 14k gold from 18k gold on center links so I always go with lower cost 14k even when the bezel is 18k. When I bought the bezels and bracelets, gold prices were a lot lower and bracelets and bezels cost about half of what they go for today so a watch was around $1000 back then. If you figure a 16233 in good condition is around $3000 today, $1500 is still a lot of $$ for a replica but with a genuine watch you might need expensive part$ and $ervice but with a replica you will not. Otoh, like I said, you can always wear it a few years then part it out and lose only a few hundred bucks or maybe break even depending on gold prices. With a good dial and bracelet these watches are very hard to tell from genuine, unlike submariners. Why's that? Because there are not many DJ 'experts' walking around but submariner 'experts' are everywhere, They are easy to spot...most are grownups wearing genuine submariners...acting like they are 5 or 6 years old.