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Even better: You can even use the rep logo plate on the BOB deployant. Just perfect!

Thank you all for your comments!!! The watch is back in my hands for some final fine tuning... I'll take a few shots before sending it back to it's daddy!!!

OK now that parts are all clean its time to reassemble! I do apologize i may have skipped a couple shots and I switched the angle of the camera to try and eliminate the Depth of Field issues with being at an angle but going directly perpendicular on caused the glare/surface ugliness of the parts to be a lot more visible. Disclaimer: I will say that my way is definitely not the only way to reassemble. I followed no guide and just went with what worked for me and seemed logical from other movements. First up Escape wheel. Then the center wheel and the barrel and arbor. Make sure the teeth on the barrel are on the bottom side and the section of the arbor that is squared is facing up. This will engage another gear that sets on top and is how the mainspring is wound. Next install the center bridge and the seconds pinion. I used some Moebius 9010 to lubricate the shaft of the seconds pinion where it rotates in the bridge jewel. Then we move onto the click and the click spring. Lubricate the contact points of the spring and click with 9501. The automatic works gears are installed next. The gold wheel is a double wheel and has a silver metal wheel sandwiched underneath. This silver wheel is what the click actually interacts with so you have to rotate the click out of the way to get the wheel in place. This pressure put on by the click does make installing the wheel bridge a pain in the a** later on where you have to try and align 4 wheel pivots pretty much blindly into their specific bridge jewel's... Next up the motion works wheels. The fatter/larger/darker in color wheel goes in first. Next up the keyless work gears. Note that the little brass spring washer kind of snaps down over the center pivot and is to curve up like a bowl not down towards the plate like a mound. Ok this is the worst part about this movement. Everything in the automatic and motion works is held in place by this large bridge. and you have to get 4 pivots and the barrel arbor all lined up correctly. Take your time and go slow and soft. I used a oiler to help reach each wheel and try to maneuver them into place. When you think you have it you probably don't. Make sure all motion work wheels spin freely. To test the automatic works I used a piece of peg wood to move/wind the barrel. When all are aligned then screw down the 3 bridge screws. Im going to keep these full size so you can see how the bends in the levers are supposed to face. I lubricated the lever contact points with 9501 and the winding pinion contact points with D-5. Next up is the pallet. The shorter arm faces toward the center of the movement. I must have skipped the photo but then the pallet bridge goes on. It can only fit one way. Lubricate the pivot stone on the bridge before proceeding to the balance as it will be covered. The balance in place. Not pictured is the attachment of the oscillating weight but that is self explanatory. Thank you all for reading! I hope that helps someone out there! Let me know if you have any questions!

Gen SD today.

Two words: Eye Protection

Oh man please get the best stereo microscope you can afford if your going to work on them and you can thank me later, Some of the adjustments that need to be made require that you can see exactly what you are doing and what is the out come of any adjustment is that you've made. Like the indexing finger for example when you push the fork tine from it's resting point towards center you need to be able to see how many teeth on the indexing wheel the indexing finger ratchets a crossed, Is it 3, is it 5, is it 9, you need to be able to clearly see that and a hand full of other adjustments as well....

Crap the grammar police, not my strong suit! Run away!.....................