"I'm kind of new but from reading it seems all of the rep. 93150 Bracelets are pretty much equal..."
You might end up putting one together from parts. That is what I end up doing.
Here is a partial list of some replica parts to look for: Two first links (aka leading links) with 93150 stamped on them (not very easy to find, may have to go with 93250). Full set of links of proper thickness with hollow middle links. Clasp with a rivet where the 'flip lock' closes down over the clasp cap hinge (many have a spring bar here and if the sb is swapped out for a rivet, the flip lock will not pass over the rivet head). Proper type of diver extension. Set of 580 end links (hoods) that will accept oem spec spring bars with 2mm center tubes.
Pitfalls: Many clasp 'Z' blades on steel watches have an 18 (for 18k center links) stamped on them, need one without it. Some replica bracelets with hollow mid links are too thin and do not look right. Many of the sheet metal replica dive extensions will not stay snapped together when r/r the watch.
A genuine clasp is a very good option as P153 said above. I got one in a trade a while back but still ended up with over $100 in it. New, they are $250 or so. I have not used it on a watch but use it for comparison when making a clasp up using replica parts. I have been using folded Watch International/Mary oyster bracelets on vintage 5512/13 with the early type clasp cap where the adjustment holes are equally spaced. I made a tool out of strap notching pliers to put the oem type 'dents' on the side of the clasp cap between the last two adjustment holes to hold the bracelet up under the clasp cap. They look good but have 7836 on the leading links instead of 9315. They are also very well made.
The best 93150 I have came on one of two MBK 1680s I got a few years ago but the other one had solid mid links.