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Im sorry, I had no intention to play the devil's advocate or side with anyone in this matter. I just wanted to help by providing info I got...

"Anyone think differently?" Nope, I agree. When someone buys a cheap case back gasket assortment on eBay etc there is no telling what the gaskets are made out of. Most supply houses carry good quality gaskets (hopefully). Some gasket info... Screw down backs: Case back gaskets are sized by their inside diameter and thickness, both O ring and flat types. The ID can be obtained from the gasket seat in the case or the lip/groove on the case back but the thickness is sometimes hit or miss. Measuring a used gasket will not always give an accurate measurement because the old gasket may be compressed to an out of round shape. You want the gasket to compress fully so that when the back is screwed down the case back seats against the case without squeezing the gasket too much or not sufficiently compressing the gasket...this is where hit or miss and developing a 'feel' for the process comes in. You do not want the gasket showing from the outside after the case back has been tightened (because the gasket is too thick) but there may be a few exceptions to this. You also do not want the case back bottoming out before the gasket is compressed and this is sometimes hard to determine. When the watch is a replica, vintage, obscure brand, no published specs etc, it takes precise measurement or hit or miss until you determine the correct size. Always lubricate the gasket with silicone or something similar and be careful not to allow lubricant to get down into the case or on the movement. Rolex and some other companies use gasket/thread grease (Fomblin, Krytox etc, aka 'high vacuum grease') and it also prevents stainless and titanium threads from galling or seizing. The catch: Fomblin is about $80 for 20 grams. I had a rolex 160xx with the case back seized and when I finally got it apart (penetrating oil/Bergeon 5700 case tool and a LOT of downward pressure), it removed some of the threads on the case back (the back was stuck when I bought it). A drop of Fomblin etc would have prevented it. From the Edwards website: Fomblin® Grease: This grease is an excellent lubricant for sliding elastomer seals, and exhibits the chemical inertness typical of the Fomblin® range. It has a very low vapor pressure and is suitable for use in the presence of gaseous and liquid oxygen under severe conditions. (Edwards specializes in vacuum devices etc) Krytox GPL 205 is a little bit cheaper, it's what I use. Snap on backs: The same rules apply but it is sometimes harder to tell if a flat gasket is too thin or not. Silicone is fine, no $80 Fomblin needed. 'Red' plastic (polyurethane) gaskets like used on some snap back omega, Gucci etc. No lubricant is used. Gaskets must be an exact fit, sometimes a hassle, easily damaged.

Hello to everyone, my name is matt and iv been into watches for a while now, I'm getting into trying to build the things I truly want since I cant afford alot of the gen stuff, kinda picky about details. Anyway, just saying hi

looking good m8,...really....👏

I remember you as another good guy in the hobby Markiemark. Thank you for trying to help and your messages may have come as a little protective of Swiss6uk but I am certain that your intentions are good. If Swiss6uk wants to resolve this issue, I do not remember blocking his PM function and my channel is open to him. Please go your way and have your honor intact, this is in no way any fault of yours nor are you an accessory to his ill repute. I’m sure Tariq can PM me should his conscience beckon him one day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

An open note... When I first got your message a couple months back, I'd think that you were just a watch Noob looking for 'the perfect sub', but it seems that you've proven yourself over the past few months that... - You're a sore, sore buyer. - You back out of agreements (not just this one) - You lack manners, and proper upbringing. You've walked out of conversation; 2 times without a PM reply, and exiting a chat when a moderator is trying to communicate. So let's put things into perspective. That months after receiving said items, almost ALL of them have problems... what are the chances? Who's word is more believable? The man without integrity, or the modder who has been servicing this hobby for the past 3 years or more? It's pretty much a no-brainer here. There will never be a perfect rep, the majority of this population is aware of that. For what's it worth, and IF you are reading this Swiss cheese, you have no place in this hobby.

Nicely done!! The bezel and crystal will be the icing on the cake. Checked Ruby and she doesnt have just the bezel on her site...but a case set and even so, it would need work bezel is close to a mk3 Yuki is the small thick font which is more suited to the mk1 straight hand or the fornitura

I dealt with him in the past without problems, I have him on whatsapp and he asked me to post this. He can't reply because he is banned. So I'm just the messenger... Im not siding with anyone, nor do I have personal stakes in this matter. I mean, I'm not getting watches or $6000 haha. I also warned swiss6uk to not open a paypal dispute without admin aproval, and try to solve it with the modder first. And like I always say, every story has 3 sides. And this applies to this one as well. The buyer's side, the modder's side, and then there is the truth...

the moment your seller offers you a solution but you steal the money and keep the watches you are a scammer. Full stop. There's no second option, no escape, no misunderstanding, nothing...you want to steal money. As simple as that.

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The case already has the beveled lug edges, I didn't cut that far enough back to remove them, I followed the line through along the case. Another little update, I've actually had some time today to really get stuck in to this so..... Case reshaped and polished with subtle ageing. Hands lumed, the GMT and seconds are slightly warmer just because I saw a few ref. pics that had these hands more aged for some reason and I liked the look Oh and I lightly stained the date wheel to add some patina but only very subtle. Older models had a silver date wheel, maybe this will be a future upgrade along with a "flat four" bezel and more gen like plexi with a more magnified cyclops.

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5517 today

dear guys, i had to go a second time in hospital simple cheecks i come back to you all when i am out regards rolli