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I’ve just wrapped up (for now) another one of my ongoing projects - a 1680 Red Submariner. Inspired by some of the mid-70’s versions I’ve seen on Chrono24, etc I imagine this was a fairly well care-for watch serviced several times with a replacement, service dial and insert. Case isn’t too beat up and isn’t over-polished. The specs on the project: - JK Factory Case, Caseback, 93250 Bracelet, Open 6/9 Datewheel and Dial (purchased from TrustyTime) - Clark’s 25-127 Crystal - WSO Bezel Assembly - Athaya 702 Tube and Crown - WSO 580 Endlinks - Sellita SW-200-1 Movement - Raffle’s Time Hand Set I relumed the hand set, pearl, and dial to match. Pearl was lumed then finished with clear coat of binder for durability and gloss. Like my other vintage project, I went for a vintage tone lume a high-intensity, green glow. Insert has been very lightly bleached, just enough to eliminate the gloss finish. Crown guards have been squared off in the front, case was lightly aged via a tumble in a bag of screws, all exposed edges were eased, and case was repolished. Athaya tube installed with Blue Loctite and tube hole countersunk to ensure tight fit of crown when screwed down. SW200-1 was purchased from a fellow member but needed the keyless works to be repaired. I repaired the keyless works then installed H5 second wheel, minute cannon, and hour cannon along with a date wheel from an ETA2836-2. Dial was fitted with a slightly thicker dial spacer. This modification allowed me to fit the slimmer SW200-1 into a case designed for an ETA2836-2 while maintaining stem alignment. Everything has been installed as friction fit, gaskets sealed and siliconed. Bracelet has been minimally aged. Sometime in the future I will likely swap out the DW Overlay and Dial for better quality. Working with a Ruby’s Watch dial on my 1675 project, the quality difference is super obvious. I should also get around to doing a water resistance test - I’d like to know how water resistant I’ve built this. I honestly worry the most about the crown tube since I countersunk the top edge but otherwise feel good about things. Here’s some pics, thanks for looking!

Hi Guys, Hope everybody is doing well. recently i ordered the launched (GMF factory) GMT Jubilee from Andrew. I believe it reached me within 3 days... man it goes fast nowadays! Rock solid communication as always, thanks Andrew. This bracelet is IMO the most gorgeous bracelet Rolex ever produced. I think what attracts me the most is the retro kinda look it has. The pepsi colors are also the bomb. I made some quick pics because I do not have much time between work and sleep nowadays. Hope you like it. Some specs from: ROLGMT128 -GMT Master II 126710 Jubilee 904L SS/SS Blk GMF A2836 [ROLGMT128] - $428.00 : Trusty Time Online Store, Your Trusty Watch Shop GMF Factory Rolex GMT Master Pepsi Jubilee Ref.126710 904L Steel MOVEMENT: Nickel Plated Asia ETA 2836-2 (28,800bph) Automatic movement with GMT Function CASE DIAMETER: 40mm THICKNESS: 12mm DIAL COLOR: Black Dial with Round Markers (Correct Swiss Grade Blue Superlume on Dial Markers) CASE MATERIAL: High Grade Solid Stainless Steel 904L BRACELET: High Grade Solid Stainless Steel 904L Steel Jubilee Style with Updated Rolesor Flip Lock Clasp FRONT GLASS: Sapphire Crystal with etched crown at 6:00 position CASE BACK: Solid case back BEZEL: Pepsi Colored Bezel with Engraved numerals HACK MOVEMENT: CLASP TYPE: Rolesor Flip Lock Clasp DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 (Adjusted via crown) Enjoy the pics. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk

Two work colleagues and I had nothing much to do one night shift around 2002, so we decided to teach ourselves how to pick locks. We had access to a workshop, so we designed and built our own picks according to what we thought was necessary. We discovered the next night that one can buy them online and they looked very similar to ours. It was actually frightening how good one can get in a very short time. I got to the point I could open my front door nearly as quickly with the picks as with the keys, which is rather worrying. I still have that original set and they are the best to me😀

loooooove it!

Never fear mate, I still have the key to that mahogany cabinet way in back of the massage tables to the left of the lap pool. You know the one, it has the cigar burns and leather cladding... the really REALLY good stuff is in there. I told MOAB the "really good stuff" is in the crystal case by the bowling lanes. Tee hee, he'll be savoring the Johnny Walker while we sip the 40 year single malts. Mum's the word!

You keep this up and you'll force me to build one!

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I have been following this thread very carefully and my understanding is that Automatico has the best experience on this with his detailed and informative response. I believe you seem to have a type of case which was most common from Silix which are good cases as I had this same type of case back on an Omega I bought from the original owner of the site some 12 years ago. Great watch but not a good watch to wear in summer as it too had a flimsy back seal and moisture seemed to creep in on a hot day as the crystal fogged up. I ordered more then a few back seals all 1.0mm in thickness and they were oval instead of flat. I eventually got the right diameter but still I was not so confident with the thickness as a 1.2mm one would have been better. I then considered that it couldn't get any worse, so, I had some rocker cover gasket sealant which sealed a nice leak on my car and I slowly used a sharped toothpick to fill in a small film in the groove which was also stepped to make it thicker. I know it sounds charlatanism but I just wanted something that worked. Before the sealant totally dried I placed gasket to adhere it in place for it to cure while slowly putting a few light turns onto the mid case just to level out the gasket in the case back. Once it was cured, I passed some lithium grease from CRC with my forefinger around the gasket. I then tightened it just enough to feel the gasket compressing. Don't overtighten as it isn't necessary. I also ran out of lubricant so I used singer sewing machine oil on a very small cotton bud onto a tooth pick to lubricate the threads. Most watch makers and even those here would frown on my ways but I never ever had problems again even with dipping my arm into the lake with it. Replacing the seal was easy as it just needed to be scraped out with a soft object. Regarding 1.2 mm seals, I recall getting one from a forum member in Australia for a watch that was built there. So I know they exist but I have since been unsuccessful in locating one To answer your question on getting a new case back, I believe that the replica cases are a smitch bigger than the genuine cases and it may be risky to get a new case back which may not fit or marry up with the threads especially if the thread taps are different I suppose someone can correct me on this but unless you prefer to change over the case completely with a case back without this step It then defeats the purpose of your outcome as it is a learning game as well as a project achievement!!!

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