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And yet the value of vintage rolexes is still quite strong even at the lower end where I generally hunt. If it wasn't for guys like you and Misiek I probably wouldn't collect those either!l Regards, Rick

But you will still be in that rarefied 5%, I'm always amazed about your knowledge of cases and movements Rick! Cheers, Rick

Random '1016' movement/case combo Q & A from messages and posts: Q...On mounting of the gen 1570 on the 2824 case in terms of diameter it works, but not sure about the height. A...The distance from the stem center line to the dial is the critical measurement...then add the thickness of the dial. Most genuine vintage rlx dials are .40mm plus or minus, replica dials may be a little bit less. Q...Is there a specific spacer that assures a correct placement of the movement or is it trial and error? A...In the projects I have done using an aftmkt 15xx rlx case with a rlx 15xx movement, I did not need a spacer IF the case is made for a date or no date movement and that is what you are putting in it. You can read about using a spacer between the movement and dial on MBK 55xx/1680 cases when using a no date rlx 15xx movement above. An RWG friend (Stilty, from Canada) had some special ETA to rlx case spacers CNC machined about 10 years ago and later Yuki had the same type of spacer made and they are still available. Q...Do you always have to use the stamped metal dial spacer on ETA's when it has nothing to do with spacing the dial away from the date wheel? A...The spacer is needed to level the dial. I stuck an ETA 2836 with 26.0mm dial without the calendar spacer in a Yuki '5513' OEM spec case and the stem does not line up. A little better without the spacer but not much. Besides that, the dial flops around on the movement because the spacer also holds the dial level. in cases made for a 15xx movement, I needed an OD type spacer to fit an ETA 28xx movement in the case because an ETA movement is 11.5 ligne size and a 15xx rlx is 12.5 ligne size (1 ligne = 2.2558291 mm). I make spacers out of brass flat washers on a lathe and cut them to fit the movement OD and case ID. Some standard brass cartel watch spacers will do the job. I also make some of the spacers with a shoulder that comes up higher than the movement plate so I can stick the dial to the spacer when using dials made for rlx movements without dial feet and do away with the flimsy stamped metal ETA spacer. Fyi...I bought a nos Eta 2879 day/date movement and it has the calendar spacer made on the movement plate, not a sheet metal spacer. They will work in cases made for Eta 2836/46 and have the 21600 beat rate that is close to the rolex 1520/1570 19800 bph...but they are not good for 5512/13 projects in genuine spec cases because they will be too thick like an ETA 2836/46. Imho, most cartel DJ 16200 type cases are better suited to ETA 36mm DJ/modern sapphire explorer etc. projects than '1016' projects especially if they do not have 'through and through' lug holes because lug holes are very hard to get right when drilling them in blind lugs. When using cartel cases you can also have trouble fitting a 2836 in a case made for a 2824 or putting a 2824 in a 2836 case...plus drilling lug holes. I did a '1016' project using an early genuine rlx 162xx case with a 1570 and it turned out pretty good and although the case is not exactly 1016 spec, it is very high quality and looked fine. There is also plenty of metal around the lug holes to drill the holes to 1.25 or 1.3mm without getting too close to an edge like some of the cartel cases. A genuine rlx 160xx case might be closer to a 1016 than a 162xx case but you would probably need to use a calendar spacer etc. like with an MBK 55xx/1680 case when using a rlx 15xx movement. I never tried it so I do not know for sure. I still have my JMB '1016' with a combo 2824/2836 movement and it has been fine. The combo movement I put together seems to run Ok but like all ETA movements in my experience it needs more active wear to keep the running reserve up compared to a rlx 15xx movement. I drilled/tapped the JMB case to put a standard 6.0mm case tube in it so it would accept a standard 6.0mm crown...I used a replica crown on it though. Random comments: I have used Eta 2836/46 movements only in cartel/MBK cases that were made for Eta 2836/46/DG etc movements. Externally the 2836 is basically the same as a 2846. So...I tried a 2836 with 26.0mm dial in a Yuki 5513 genuine spec case and it would not work because the movement is too thick and the stem will not line up in the case tube...it is too far toward the back. A 2824 would probably work but I did not try one. Note...the movement still has the dial spacer so removing it will make the movement thinner but probably not thin enough. The movement/dial combo I tried in the Yuki OEM spec case was from an MBK '5512' and they use standard Eta 2836 movements with the calendar guts removed but with the calendar spacer left on. The details on the MBK cases are at the top of this sticky. If you wanted to use an ETA 2846 in a Yuki 55xx it would probably be like my JMB '1016' project where I had to use a set of 2824 plates with 2846 running gear (escapement etc) plus center wheel/hour wheel/canon pinion. HellofaMess unless you like taking Eta movements apart, mixing parts up, and putting them back together. Besides that, since the movements had no service history and had been handled, I also had to c/o them both. In rlx 1016, 55xx projects... "I could sell my 2846 and get a 2824 to get a thinner movement." The 2824 = wrong beat rate and the center wheel/hour wheel/cp may be too low, making the hands too close to the dial. The bottom line is... Projects like this always turn out to be trial and error unless you are working on a standard project with known parameters. If a 2836/46 is too thick, you either have to go with a 2824 (wrong beat rate), a combo 2824/2846 movement (hassle), or a thin Eta/A Schild etc. of some sort with the 21600 beat rate. Early rlx 15xx were 18000 bph but most are 19200 bph and 21600 bph is close enough (for me anyway). Like I said before...It's a HellofaMess (on a very small scale). Otoh look at the bright side...by the time you get finished, you will know more about vintage rolex projects than 95% of RWG members...for what it's worth. Ha! Yuki adapter: https://rwg.cc/topic/116411-yuki-eta-2824-adaptor Dial with no dial feet: https://rwg.cc/topic/183724-dial-with-no-feet 6610 Explorer: https://rwg.cc/topic/189330-rolex-6610-explorer-with-a-r-e-a-l-gilt-dial-pure-beauty/ DJ 1600/16000 info: https://rwg.cc/topic/192376-datejust-160016000/

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I've heard this in the AP forum. Love the watch though.

Excellent advice DH. I did something similar with the cartel 5513 with stubby cgs- filed the cgs inside and out, filed the seat down between the cgs, installed a 702 crown and tube, drilled the lugholes. It's still running fine on the dg2813 and is somewhat WR- I haven't been past lite swimming. A 2846 would be a good low beat swap on the TT 5513.

I am quite often amazed by the knowledge on this forum and very thankful to all that share. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk