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In the old days 6.0mm od crowns all used a case tube made for 6.0mm crowns and 5.3mm crowns all used a case tube made for 5.3mm crowns. This has nothing to do with thread or tube sizes, they use the nominal crown outside diameter for identification with appropriate case tubes to work with 5.3mm, 6.0mm, and 7.0mm crowns. (8.0mm crowns used an entirely different case tube than later models). When they came out with sapphire crystals, they went to 6.0mm od crowns that used the same 5.3 case tube as 5.3mm crowns. (probably to cut down on inventory and streamline machining) The 5.3mm case tube has smaller threads where the crown screws on and where the tube screws into the case than regular 6.0mm case tubes. Case tube thread specs where they screw into the case: 2.5mm x .25mm for 5.3mm case tubes 3.0mm x .35mm for 6.0mm and 7.0mm submariner case tubes I did not dig out case tubes and measure the threads where the crown screws on the case tube as it is not that important...the crown either fits the case tube or it does not. You can replace the 5.3mm crown with a late 6.0mm crown on your manual wind 6694 etc to make it easier to wind, the case tubes are the same. A regular yellow gold 6.0mm crown is p/n 24-600-8. The 6.0mm yellow gold crown for 5.3mm case tube is p/n 24-603-8. A regular yellow gold 5.3mm gold crown is 24-530-8. ss = same number but ending in 0 in place of 8 A regular newer type 6.0mm case tube is p/n 24-6020 (without case tube to case sealing washer) and 24-6030 (with sealing washer) This tube has external splines and does not have to be broached. The old type 6.0mm case tube that has to be broached is p/n 24-6000 iirc. Use as last resort or to keep a watch 'original'...not a good idea imho. If you broach it a bit too much and the case tube is weak...it might break if the crown hits a door edge etc. note: All tubes come with an O ring for inside the case tube...do not confuse this O ring with the case tube sealing washer. The later type 5.3mm case tube is p/n 24-5320 (external splines, no broaching) Same case tube with silver sealing washer included (seals case tube to case) is 24-5330-0...always get this if you can. The p/n for the old type 5.3mm case tube that has to be broached is 24-5310. (last resort but can be used to keep the watch 'original') note: You must use the sealing washer (separate washer p/n 29-05310 for 5.3mm tube) to assure case tube to case seal. The regular 6.0mm case tube sealing washer is p/n 29-06020. Late 7.0mm submariner case tubes are installed using the same tool as late 6.0mm no broach case tubes. Later 7.0mm submariner case tubes (pn 24-7030-0) use a plastic case tube to case sealing washer...washer only p/n is 24-06011. Later gold submariner crowns p/n = 24-703-8 ss = same number ending in 0 in place of 8 note: p/n 24-7030-0 is for 7.0mm case tube kit...crown and gaskets, not case tube only. This kit includes two O rings for inside the case tube, one case tube to case sealing washer, and one O ring for the outside of the case tube that seals the crown skirt (this is the one you see on the case tube when the crown is unscrewed). note: Submariner crowns have one additional round section O ring in the crown cap that is the same as the two O rings inside the case tube. (triplock!) The crown cap O ring will compress into a groove cut in the top of the case tube when the crown is screwed down...this O ring will not be damaged by being screwed down over and over like on 5.3mm and 6.0mm crowns that use a flat section O ring. The crown threads can be damaged when over tightened and sometimes the case tube breaks off or unscrews with the crown. All late style case tubes have external splines and do not have to be broached...same tool as later 6.0mm case tubes. A genuine or aftermarket submariner 7.0mm case tube can be installed in the case in order for a genuine crown to be used. The 7.0mm submariner case tube has the same thread size where it screws into the case as the standard 6.0mm case tube used in older DJ, Exp I etc...3.0mm X .35mm and a standard thread tap for the Rolex case can be used to tap it out to the correct size if necessary. The 3.0mm X .35mm taps are available from most watch parts supply houses. Many replicas have the case threaded for the smaller case tube thread size same as the 5.3mm crown and modern 6.0mm crowns...2.5mm X .25mm and if this is the size in your submariner watch case, the hole will have to be drilled out first with a number 36 (2.7mm) drill bit before threading the hole with the 3.0mm X .35mm tap. Be sure to drill the hole straight through the case and lubricate the bit with cutting oil or WD 40 etc. After the hole has been bored, line the tap up straight and very carefully start cutting the threads in the case. Turn the tap about 1/2 turn at a time and back it up to dislodge the metal chips and lubricate the tap with thread cutting oil or WD 40 etc to help prevent galling and to carry the chips away from the threads. After the hole has been tapped, clean the case in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush being sure to get all the metal chips out of the newly threaded hole (I hope you removed the movement before starting this project!!) and try the case tube for proper fit. Pipe cleaners are another way to clean the threads out. Be advised that the 7.0mm submariner case tube does not fit up against the case same as the standard 6.0mm case tube. The standard genuine 6.0 case tube uses a silver sealing washer between the slightly tapered case tube and case for a gasket (I have never seen one of these gaskets on a replica) and the 7.0mm case tube uses a rubber O ring gasket that fits against a flat machined surface on the case. Machining the case is a bit more involved so I will leave it out and simply recommend anyone to seal the case tube O ring to the case with waterproof silicone grease. I have a miniature milling machine and cutter for cutting a flat on cases but if the case has enough area for the O ring to seal, I let it go as is. Tips: On cases with the correct 3.0mm X .35mm hole size...be sure to run the tap through it first (if you have one) or very carefully try the case tube for proper fit because sometimes the threads are not very good and they can ruin the case tube. On gold cases skip the part about running a tap through the threads unless they are damaged. Usually you are better off to just run the tube in the case without trying to run a tap in it first if the case tube will start straight to begin with because the tap will remove metal and maybe most of the threads with it where running the tube in may straighten them up a bit. It's a gamble. You can find good used genuine submariner crowns on eBay. Practice cutting threads on a junk case or bore a few holes in a piece of stainless steel sheet and tap them for practice. When cutting practice holes, it is easier to start out with a smaller bit first and work up to the #36 bit. Stainless steel is not easy to work with so a few practice runs are in order. The #36 (.2.7mm) drill bit is a tiny bit larger that usual so the tap will not bind up when cutting threads in the hard steel case. It is better to have the threads a bit shallow than take a chance on breaking the tap off in the case. When you buy a 7.0mm case tube, be sure to get all the rubber O ring gaskets including the one inside the crown cap and on the outside of the case tube. You can use plastic based gasket sealer on the case tube threads to help seal the tube and hold the tube in place and keep it from backing out. Case tube spline wrenches are available to make the job of inserting the case tube easier but you can usually get the tube screwed in by using the crown for a tube driver if you are careful. Sometimes the crown will tighten down and unscrew the case tube after insertion so if you can get a case tube wrench it is money well spent. There are old type and new type case tubes and wrenches so ask for new type replacement case tubes and wrenches so everything will work together. Do not count on the tube to be water resistant without testing the empty case first. note: RWC claims you need 'special tools' for crown r/r. You might get by sometimes without them but usually not. These tools can be purchased from the aftermarket...except the last one. 1...a tool for installing old style 5.3mm case tubes (old type = the type you have to broach after installation) 2...a tool for installing old style 6.0mm case tubes (remove old case tubes with a broach or soft pliers/large pin vice etc on the crown threads...be careful with a broach as you can cut into the case threads) 3...a tool for installing/removing new style 5.3mm case tubes (no broach) 4...a tool for installing/removing new typw 6.0mm case tubes (no broach) 5...broaches for 5.3mm and 6.0mm case tubes plus finishing broaches (5.3mm and 6.0mm case tubes use different size broaches and finishing broaches are optional) 6...tap for cases using 5.3mm case tube (to clean out the threads) 7...tap for cases using regular 6.0mm and 7.0mm case tubes 8...the most common rolex 'special tool' is the $100 bill Many supply houses now include a silver sealing gasket/washer with their aft/mkt 5.3mm case tubes to go between the tube and case. Some offer 5.3mm case tubes made out of both nickel silver (like original vintage) and stainless steel. The 5.3mm tubes are also being made out of steel in order to make them strong enough to withstand a hit or two because the nik/sil tubes were prone to breaking off, especially with 6mm crowns on the little 5.3mm tubes...sapphire DJ etc. For some reason aft/mkt suppliers do not supply silver washers with 6.0mm case tubes yet. Broach(ing) 101 Broach (V) = cutting the internal (installation) splines out of an old type case tube so the crown post will pass through...early 5.3mm and 6.0mm case tubes had internal splines that have to be broached to size (inside diameter) after they are installed. Cut them out just enough so the crown post does not bind when winding/setting. Cut too much out and it weakens the case tube. Broach (N) 'special tool' used to bore holes out to size...looks like a tapered drill bit with straight cutter splines. FYI: Metal codes... 0 = stainless steel 1 = yellow gold filled 2 = white gold filled or ss and platinum 3 = stainless and yellow gold (tutone) 4 = stainless and white gold 5 = gold shell or 18K pink or rose gold 6 = platinum 7 = 14k yellow gold 8 = 18k yellow gold 9 = 18k white gold 9a = 'green gold' (see special tool #100 above) etc, etc... Added 2-9-16: Word for word from an original rolex repair bulletin: The tubes Nos. 5330 and 7030 with the crowns Nos. 530, 603, and 703 compose the new OYSTER TUBES AND CROWNS assortment. The tube No. 5330 bears a crown No. 530 or 603 according to the reference of the case. The tube No. 7030 bears a crown No. 703. The tubes No. 5330 and 7030, as also the tube No. 6010, have the splines cut in the crown side part of the tube. The splines must not be reamed out any longer and can serve for unscrewing. Etc, etc. Finally and most important: The tubes with old type splines Nos. 5300 and 5310 can be replaced by the tube No. 5330, the tube No. 6000 by the tube No. 6010 and the tubes No. 7000, respectively No. 7020, by the tube No. 7030, for as much as the crown No. 700, respectively No. 702, be also replaced by the crown No. 703. (Deciphered, this means any matching case tube/crown combo will work in most submariner cases made since the mid 1960s.)

"I've found a Swiss ETA 2836-2 on Ebay for 98€, however it says it has been in storage for 10 years and would require a cleaning. My watchmaker offered me to clean and regulate it for 100€. Would that be a good deal, or would it make more sense to buy a new (pre-sealed) one on CousinsUK for 250€ and mount it without cleaning or regulating it?" Because I do my own cleaning/oiling I am not one to ask but many times repair guys will not completely go through a nos movement, they just clean and oil the balance jewels, escape wheel/pallet fork, and reoil the rest of the pivots.. Just sayin'. The guy who said "You get what you pay for" never fooled with watches. 'Adjustment'... Most nos Etas keep good time as is and 'adjustment' will consist of simple regulation. 'Technical adjustment' consists of truing/poising, the balance wheel, checking/truing the hairspring etc but imho this is wasted effort on a movement that runs within 15 or 20 seconds a day. Only the 'Top grade' Etas are fully adjusted and they will have higher grade balance wheels, hairsprings etc. The 5 or 8 second per day stuff is not for me and as for me to attempt to 'adjust' a watch...I can see no reason to chase a ghost down a dark tunnel...imho. Otoh if a watch happens to run that close, it's fine with me. I have a watch with a $25 Seagull ST16 that is that close. Been that way for about 6 months (fingers crossed). "Why do you think it might be necessary to remove the teeth from the gen datewheel? Shouln't there be enough clearance after removing the day wheel on the inside?" Only if there is not enough room to run the various screws in and out. I have had trouble with some DWO covering screw heads but never used a genspec 3135 calendar disc on an Eta 2836 to see how they fit. A case tube is where the crown screws into right? Yes. "I didn't even know those were removable... do you think a gen crown might not fit on the raffles dials case tube, or is it only about the quality?" It depends on quality and type. Review the 'Crown Info' sticky at the top of the rolex section. "Do you mean that the dial does not have to be glued at all, if the spacer and case clamps are closely fitting or do you mean that the glued feet are more likely not to break in that case?" I have seen watches with dials just laying on the movement that stayed in place and have also seen glued on platform dial feet broken off. It is always better to have some kind of adhesive or mechanical means holding the dial to the movement though. On the 2836 there is a stamped sheet metal calendar spacer that can be glued to the dial to hold the dial in place until the whole assembly is put together. Close fitting spacers also help a lot. If the DWO rubs the dial you can put some equally spaced small dents in the underside of the spacer for additional clearance between the dial and DWO. "And One more thing that makes me worry: The gen dials that I had in mind are 27,8 mm in diameter according to the seller, whereas the raffle dials case is fit for 28,0 mm dials as sold by them. Is my concern that it might be too small for the case justified?" Two things: 1...Is the dial seat large enough to accommodate a 28.0mm dial? 'Dial seat' = the machined flat surface inside the case where the dial is mounted. 2...Will the printed outer minute track (if there is one the dial) be under the edge of the case and are printed or applied hour markers up against the edge of the case? Not good if yes. The dial needs to be about 1mm more or less (more is better) bigger than the dial window to hold it in place and not have any markers covered or open space between the dial and case where you can see into the case from the front side. 'Dial window' = the open space around the dial as seen from the front. Once you start on the project, all this will begin to make sense as you move along. It is a good idea to use a spare dial with the same diameter as your dial for fitting the dial/movement combo to a case to keep from scratching the dial. I use a spare dial and movement plate with no guts in it with a calendar spacer for trial and error fitting.

I’m a noob compared to other member , but for what I know the 6536/1 have a very thin middlecase is the thinnest middlecase compared to the other Rlx sub of the same age.. Why you don’t buy the new 6542 (the one that sell kuvarsit and Jtime) ? You can have a thin case, a nice caseback , a nice bezel (not the correct for a 6536 but similar ) You have only to found a nice dial and a correct insert . And maybe change the 2836 with a low beat movement . This is my simply recipe for a nice watch 6536/1 without spend a fortune .

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