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Dear Forum, sorry for the bad pun in the title... I'm in the process of putting together my first watch and wanted to show off some pictures of the status and perhaps get some expert opinions here or there! Here is the story: I was browsing the web for explorer homages and found timefactors, a UK microbrand which owns many of the old english watch maker brands. Under the old "Smiths" name, they are making a really nice 36mm explorer 1016 homage called the Everest: (https://www.timefactors.com/smiths.htm) They also make the same watch with the original Smiths logo: Looks beautiful I think. I got interested in the connection between Smiths and the 1016, and it turns out both watches accompanied Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their ascent of Everest in 1953. Here is a picture of the original Smiths: (https://mrjoneswatches.com/products/smiths-edmund-hillary-pattern) Now, the sane thing to do yould be to order one of the Smiths from timefactors and have it done with, however... I always find that I have the biggest and longest lasting appreciation for things that put togther myself and so that's the route I am hoping to take. So... I found a nice patina-ed vintage Smiths deluxe dial on ebay and it's much nicer in real life than in this picture: I think this is from a dressier Smiths watch rather than one of their field watches, but I really like it. The pattern reminds me a bit of the pre-Explorer Rolex 6298 Precision, or maybe of the new white dialed Seiko Alpinists. Next I got a 36mm oyster case from ebay, after someone here on the forum kindly encouranged me to trust in it's waterproofability. The case arrived really fast after only two weeks from China and looks amazing. Of course I had to make a quick mock-up to see how things look, and here are some pictures from today: (There pictures don't do the reality justice, I didn't know how hard it is to take good pictures of a watch...) Of course, nothing works yet. There is no movement inside and the hands are from another watch and not attached to anything. But I think it looks quite good! This might be no news to the people on this forum but man are these 36mm oyster cases elegant... So next to do is find a movement and hands and I am hoping to get some help with choosing here. The case is designed for an ETA 2836. Now, from what I understand, the difference between the ETA 2824 and the 2836 are in the movement height and the speed at which the date changes. The latter I don't care about for obvious reasons. The movement height, however, makes me think. I understand that this is in principle important because you want the crown hole in the case to line up with the winding stem hole in the movement (sorry if I'm messing up the terminology, is this hole in the movement called the keyless works?). But does this lining up not depend strongly on the thickness of the dial? In my case the dial is domed a bit, so I suspect that the movement, if fitted flush to the backside of the dial, is slightly to high in the case. I am thinking I might need a spacer, but if I start messing with spacers then I might as well buy the cheaper ETA 2824, which is smaller in height? As for the movements, I have my eye on the sellita SW220 (if I go 2838) or SW200 (if I go 2824) and I found this swiss seller on ebay who sells both. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOVEMENT-AUTOMATIC-SELLITA-SW220-1-TOP-GRADE-BLUE-SCREWS-COMPATIBLE-ETA-2836/132962868592?hash=item1ef5345d70:g:1msAAOSwW9NZ4A1t I figured the chance of these just working out of the box without requireing a costly service after 6 weeks of running is higher than with a chinese movement? If I buy a chinese seagull ETA 2836 clone and need to get ot serviced, the price will be similiar to what the sellita costs new. Does this make sense? Also... the vanity of wanting a swiss movement... The dial obviously does not have the right feet to fit into an ETA movement, so I need to figure that out to. The case came with a movement ring. Could I just glue that onto the back of the dial? Or should I use these sticky dial dots? Hands: to be decided. Seringe hands like in the vintage smiths would be great. Drilled-through lug holes: do watch makers do this or are they going to kick me out of the store? I find it would suit the tool watch look of the watch perfectly and it's convenient of course. what do I need to do to get the watch waterproof? Ideally to 10ATM. I work with ultra high vacuum apparatus, so I know a thing or two about finding and removing leaks, but this is different I feel. Do I need to grease the gaskets? Also the ines in the threaded crown? I'd like to get an oyster bracelet for the watch at some point. The same seller who sold the case to me has some (I suspect this is raffles dials really), does anybody know if these are nice? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20MM-OLD-STYLE-SOLID-STEEL-RIVET-OYSTER-BAND-BRACELET-FOR-36MM-EXPLORER-WATCH/353071310141?hash=item5234b0a53d:g:Bo0AAOSwIJdbgyq7 That's it for know! I'm eager to know if you think this is a ridiculous plan or perhaps totally impossible. And I am really greatfull for any advice or pep talk!

Well, that's pretty much the info I sent you via pm. I'll post it here, others may find it useful too: If I were to build another 5517, I would buy the complete case set from Ruby. (Request login password via email: infor@rubyswatch.com) http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c5517 Ruby's bezel insert is currently the best, it's also included in the case set: http://www.rubyswatch.com/products/k15-|-submariner-|-5517-|-bezel-insret-1878 Although not perfect, dial from Ruby too: http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/parts/sub-5517 Hands from Yuki: https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/8865330.htm https://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/9842879.htm https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/Submariner-5517-hand-set-p35282255 702 crown and tube either gen or from Athaya: http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-702-crown-and-tube/ Movement: Ruby’s case is for a Gen 1520 movement. Alternatively an ETA2846 with adapter ring from Yuki. Check case dimensions with Ruby first. She may have an adapter too. https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/ETA-adaptor-retro-fit-cal-15X0-case-p35063689 Admiralty Grey NATO strap from Phoenix, the original MOD supplier: https://www.esprit-nato.com/en/phoenix-nato-watch-straps/792-2933-admiralty-grey-phoenix-nato-watch-strap.html#/28-width_lug_buckle-20_mm Check out the section for modding services here on RWG: https://rwg.cc/forum/179-repairmodification-services/ Caveat: Some may suggest it, but bon't buy any parts from MQ! He's tricky to deal with at best. That’s abut it. Good luck!

"The case is designed for an ETA 2836. Now, from what I understand, the difference between the ETA 2824 and the 2836 are in the movement height and the speed at which the date changes. The latter I don't care about for obvious reasons." The thickness difference between the 2824 and 2836 is because of the extra thickness of the day of the week disc and calendar spacer thickness on the 2836. An eta 2836 with the date works removed will display a slightly taller hour wheel, sweep second post, and canon pinion than a 2824 thereby allowing more room for the hands above the dial. This can be a big help on some projects. You may also consider the 'beat rate'...an eta 2824/36 runs at 28800 beats per hour where the old Smiths watches probably ran at 18000 bph or 21600 bph. A 'fast beat' 28800 bph movement will not look right in an old watch that is supposed to have a lower beat rate. "The movement height, however, makes me think. I understand that this is in principle important because you want the crown hole in the case to line up with the winding stem hole in the movement (sorry if I'm messing up the terminology, is this hole in the movement called the keyless works?). No, the mechanical parts...set bridge, set lever, winding clutch etc are the 'keyless works.' Substitute 'setting and winding parts' for 'keyless works' to make more sense. "But does this lining up not depend strongly on the thickness of the dial?" Not really. Dials are usually .3mm to .5mm thick and this does not make a lot of difference. The critical difference is the distance between the top side of the dial when mounted on the movement and the center of the hole in the movement where the stem goes into the movement...the stem needs to be centered in the case tube hole in the case when the dial/movement combo is mounted in the case. If you put a spacer or thicker dial on a movement to lower the stem hole in the case, it will in effect also make the hands closer to the dial. Visualize it. "In my case the dial is domed a bit, so I suspect that the movement, if fitted flush to the backside of the dial, is slightly to high in the case. I am thinking I might need a spacer, but if I start messing with spacers then I might as well buy the cheaper ETA 2824, which is smaller in height?" A domed dial's thickness compared to a flat dial's thickness depends on how the outer edge of the dial is made. A dial may be relatively flat around the edge and domed toward the center...this will not make the movement mount lower in the case. In other words, it depends. "Drilled-through lug holes: do watch makers do this or are they going to kick me out of the store?" "I find it would suit the tool watch look of the watch perfectly and it's convenient of course." This is specialized work, not for the uninitiated. Many watch whittlers will say they can do and end up ruining the case. I can do it successfully (most of the time) but not on anyone else's watch. My past mistakes prevent me from working on anything that does not belong to me...a hard earned lesson. "What do I need to do to get the watch waterproof? Ideally to 10ATM. Do I need to grease the gaskets? Also the ines in the threaded crown?" Cases type like the DJ type case in your top picture have three main places that may leak: 1...Crystal. 2...Case tube\crown. 3...Case back. Going through WR procedure steps one at a time takes too much typing but you can find all the info either in this forum or scattered about on the internet. Most O ring gaskets can get by with high grade silicone grease. If 'lines' = threads. They need a small bit of lubricant to prevent galling and corrosion. I use Krytox 205 on case threads and gaskets. People with a lot of $$ use Fomblin. $170.00 +/- About $25 or $30 on average

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