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When I saw this: It reminded me that I still have a few DW cases from his first and last offerings. Before I say anything about the differences in the first DW cases from 8 or 10 years ago compared to the last five from maybe 5 or 6 years back, I will say these cases were under rated when they were available, probably because there were many other options available such as MBK watches complete with movements for around $400 and 'Ruby' cases for maybe $450+/- so DW cases were not really considered to be premium cases back then. But now they are being reconsidered. Why? Because there are not as many choices now and the DW cases were really very good. Remember the DW 'Daytona' cases that were considered 'so so' years ago and Hot! now? Same thing. Imho. I used a DW case for my '1680' with 1570 and genuine dial because it just looked the part of a genuine high mileage watch with slightly rounded case sides etc. They just have 'the look' and besides that, they are precision made and a genuine rlx 15xx DATE movement with 26.5MM dial fits perfectly. OEM spec case tubes and crowns fit also. Details... 1...The case necks where the crystal fits down on the case are just a hair smaller than OEM spec and you need to go with an aftmkt crystal to find one that fits. 2...They came with 'spring wire' bezels...at least all 12 of of mine did. The crystal retainers/rotating bezels will also work on 55xx projects because the ID of the crystal retaining ring is very close to OEM spec but as I said, the case neck (and by necessity the crystal) are slightly out of spec. I used an aftmkt 'tropic' style GS crystal (no cyclops magnifier) on one '5513' project with an ST bezel kit and it worked fine but on my '1680' project the spring wire bezel and stock crystal were left on the case. 3...The case backs came with two different thread diameters for some reason. Original OEM case back threads are 30.9mm OD and all my earlier cases came this way but the last five cases (from his last batch) had 30.4mm threads. The cases and case backs are identical in appearance and only the threads are different. This does not matter at all if you leave it as is but an OEM spec case back will not fit. 4...Some cases are fully signed, some are only partially signed, and a few not signed at all. Three were fully signed but the engraving (not laser etching) was not very deep and one had 'Stinless Steel' instead of 'Stainless Steel' between the lugs. Some were marked '1680' and others were marked '5513' but they were identical in specs and all were made for 26.5mm dials and 15xx date movements/ETA 2836/46 so if you wanted to make a '5513' using a 5513 marked case you would still need to use a rlx 1570 date movement or ETA 2836/46 and a 26.0mm 5513 dial will be a hair too small for the dial opening. From: https://rwg.cc/topic/168977-building-an-mbw-sub-shortcut-rlx-156070-gmt-conversions/ etc... "The cases are all 1680 spec cases so if you have one with 5513 stamped on it, a 1520 (with date wheel spacer) and 26mm 5512/13 dial will mount up in the case but the dial will be a bit too small for the dial window and will also be too far from the dial seat. What you end up with is a 26mm dial in a 26mm dial opening with the dial mounted about .8mm below the dial seat and nothing holding the dial in place except the dial screws. I did make a very thin spacer out of aluminum to fill in the space on one DW '5513' but it took a long time to make the spacer in a lathe because it was so thin and flimsy. I had to finish it up in an old 8mm WW type 'bezel chuck' made in the 1920s. WW = regular watchmaker lathe. 'Bezel chuck' = a chuck that looks like a steel wheel with concentric grooves cut in it. It will expand or contract a few mm to accommodate small, thin bezel rings etc." "DW cases are a low $$ alternative to expensive 'genspec cases' but you will need a genspec bezel kit, crystal, tube, crown etc. Also...as I have mentioned many times before, the DW cases have rounded case sides like a DJ and not flat like a submariner. They could be sanded flat on a disc grinder or by hand but it would take a lot of careful work. One good thing about the rounded case sides is they make the watch look like an old 'high mileage' example with a storied history after they get sufficiently scuffed up. I have seen a few genuine 1680/5512/13 with the case sides rounded from years of wear and numerous polish jobs so there are genuine examples with rounded case sides in circulation." "DW cases are high quality but the sides are rounded like a DJ, not flat, giving them an 'aged' look. The lug holes may be a hair too close to the lug tops when drilled out to 1.3mm or so. The case necks are a hair too small and it is hard to find a 1680 crystal that fits exactly. Making up a 5512/13 is not as bad because T19 crystals come in many sizes (GS crystals for example). DW watches came with 'spring wire' bezels and need a Clark, ST etc. bezel kit. The engraved numbers are Ok but many are unmarked. Some DW cases have undersize case back threads...oem is 30.9mm, some DW are 30.4mm. This is Ok as long as you have a set." DW'1680' project with 1570 and Lemrich dial...

Just got this back from lume-miester Kent Parks who lumed the hands to match the dial, and swapped the minute hand for the correct longer length, and Lumed the #6 the lighter color which Radium dials had at the time. Informative video here on this one year only 1955 dial:

"absolutely amazing quality on some reps nowadays.. and also amazing crappiness." I agree and imho... The "amazing quality" is in the cases, dials, and bracelets. The "amazing crappiness" is in some of the various clone movements. A top quality watch (appearance wise) with an improperly designed/assembled/oiled 'oem lookalike' clone movement with no parts availability is going to be a problem sooner or later no matter how good the watch looks on the outside. The clone rlx 3135 is one example of trouble on the horizon with some versions being worse than others. A clone 4130 may not be quite as bad, I do not know because I have not read much about them. Clone ETA 28xx...not too bad because replacement movements and some parts are available on eBay etc at relatively low $$. Swiss ETAs can also be used but their prices are rapidly rising. The Miyota 9015 may be an alternative but dial foot location, hand sizes, and DWO can be a hassle. The APRO etc with the 9015 is probably Ok but I am only guessing, never had one. Another example... James Bond big crown Submariner case 316L Miyota 9015 movement sapphire crystal | eBay

Hey guys! Just checking in here after years being AWOL Over the years I’ve build a modest collection of gens inspired by the love for watches from this forum. Still wearing the rep PAM177 and 388. frequently, though. Hope you guys are doing great! So who has the best 1:1 Rolex Leopard Daytona these days? Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk