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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/04/2023 in all areas

  1. "I applaud your project..." Thanks Horo! "...unless the clone conversion part of it fits well on a genuine eta 2836-2 and I can be done with it!!!" I have used the GMT parts from an Asian 2836 GMT on a genuine ETA 2836 and they worked fine. The hand stack is right for a vintage type project and wrong for a modern type watch. The 24H hand is not adjustable on any of my etaclone or Swiss ETA GMT movements (except one in a modern etaclone Exp II), so they are better suited for vintage projects. "One may try the 2893-2 which is the factory genuine modification of the 2892-2 movement which is a lot thinner than both the 2836-2 and the 2824-2." The 2893 GMT is Ok imho but it is expensive, $395 on ST now. The good part is the 24H hand is adjustable and will work on modern type watches. It is a bit thinner than a 2836 conversion though...4.1mm compared to 5.1mm for a 2836. "My understanding is that the 2892-2 movement has the same dial feet positioning as the 2824-2 but dials made for the latter will fit well on the 2892-2 but not the other way as dials made for it have shorter feet." If the dial feet are a bit short, you can usually get by as long as they go into the movement far enough to keep the dial in place. The case clamps will need to supply enough tension to hold it all together though. "My other issue is that buying a Cartel case is not so easy to find either and even so, they are getting expensive for what they are!! I was able to buy good quality economy eta cases from YUKI but his website no longer lists cases anymore (well at least when I last looked.)" Good quality, affordable cases for 4 and 5 digit GMT projects are getting very hard to find (especially 1655 and 1675) and it looks like Yuki is out of the case business. I lucked out by buying a few '16710' Swiss ETA GMT watches with Asian 24H conversions (non adj 24H/hands) back when they were available. Also got one Swiss ETA '16750' with acrylic crystal and printed markers but the dial has 'OPD' at the top, not 'OP' as it should. I doubt anyone would notice...except repnuts of course. Ha! Also got a few '16710' with DG 3804 and have worn one now and then for 6 or 8 years with no trouble at all. The bracelets are very good with hollow mid links and the reflectors (rehauts) are a little bit 'wokky' but not too bad. I could remove the guts and machine the ID of the reflector out a little to hide the 'wok' but never did. "Even finding a stainless steel generic screw down crown for any divers watch regardless of brand is a challenge of it's own. I have several near mint condition citizen divers cases which are now absolutely junk as replacement stainless steel screw down crowns are near impossible to find!!" You are right about Citizen crowns. I have a few 200M Cit-Eco divers with red dials (red!) and the crown threads look fragile to me. The only thing that saves them is the fact they are quartz and do not need setting very much. Mechanical watches are another story. Crank, crank, crank...strip. In another case of 'dumb luck' I bought ten or twelve 7mm crown/tube sets from TC back when he was in the rep biz. Have one 8mm 'Brevet' crown from Athaya but never used it. His crowns and tubes must be Ok as there are very few complaints about them. A '16710' with DG 3804 in Black & White... Wok, Wok! Not really as bad as it looks. In the dark. The Swiss ETA models are better. I'll dig one out soon and post a pic. TC crowns/tubes in Living Color... Pic from today, date on the can is when I got them.
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  3. Yes the Case is a bit thicker. It's only possible to get it thinner with a lathe. I will measure my build. Gesendet von meinem 2107113SG mit Tapatalk
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