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Genuine, low mileage quartz. Got it March 5, 2012 in new condition (except for 2 links missing) in a trade.

Milgauss vintage.

Hi everyone, I'm Steve, I'm back and I seem to be back more often these days, hope you don't mind, haha.  Time flies, it's been more than a year since I did this kind of work, and I still remember Steve's first comparison post started with the daytona series, and recently the APS factory also released the daytona series, and it just so happens that I still have the genuine 116500 black in my hands, so let's take this opportunity to go back to the beginning. As we all know, the market for the 4130 Daytona is currently dominated by two factories, clean and BT, and the choice of most models is either C or B. Although there are other factories joining them, they have failed to take a share of the pie from the "CB" combination. Today we will see how the newcomer APS performs. Front Dial View Natual Light View View Under Light Sunlit view By comparing the view in multiple environments, we can see the difference between the color of the subdial and the Gen. In fact, the color deviation is secondary, after all, it is inevitable, but mainly the reflectivity of the APS is a bit strong, which is where I think the most improvement is needed. Bezel View The APS bezel is also a clean factory replacement bezel, the best ceramic Daytona bezel on the market today, with the same frontal width and lateral height as the Gen. Crystal Side View The overall crystal is excellent, the thickness of the beveled edges is well controlled and the transparency I personally feel is good. Bezel Platinum coating The Bezel is filled with vacuum plated 18K white gold, the colour is a slightly greyish white rather than pure white, the colour is almost indistinguishable from Gen (some of the figures appear slightly yellowish in the comparison view as the gen has been around for some time) Crown and markers side view The overall stick and crown maintain the style of a major manufacturer, especially the rounded edges of the stick，Objectively speaking, APS has taken great care in this area of detail. Luminous Filled View The luminous filling is also very granular, especially the stick, which is not inferior to gen. Oil font View Overall, the oil print is a bit lacking and the edges are a bit irregular, but of course all the small details are equal to the naked eye (Gen and reproduction are equal), so this is a minor or major problem. However, the font "DAYTONA" is a little too bold and feels a little too big. Subdial view The length of the hands is fine, they are in line with the Gen, but the Middle Axis is slightly flawed, the centre is raised a little high and there are some burn marks. Side view of subdial In contrast to the Gen, the subdials are a bit different in terms of grain and lettering, but of course this can be ignored, and as mentioned at the beginning, the main thing is that the reflections are rather severe. Middle Axis View The Middle Axis is the same problem as the subdials, the centre is raised too high, if it were sunk a little it would be very close to the Gen. Rehaut Side View The engraving and clarity of the typeface are very good, but of course this is standard for a major manufacturer Endlink side view The curvature of Endlink presents a good feeling and is overall very similar to Gen, with the same amount of sink at the lower edge as Gen Chronograph head view In both the screwed and unscrewed position, the outer leakage of the chronograph crown remains consistent with Gen. As far as the pressing hand is concerned, after repeated tests, I personally think that APS is very good, the overall pressing and rebounding process is relatively smooth, with a strong sense of damping and rebounding, which seems to be off-topic, as these aspects are also influenced by the chronograph components of movement. Case side view You can review the data comparison chart at the end of the Comments for yourself, after all, the eye can make mistakes, but the data is not misplaced. Haha. Caseback view The detailing of the back cover is very fine, the teeth are very rounded, especially in the frosted and brushed areas, which look very clean and neat. Case engraving View The case is engraved in parallel with Gen, which lacks depth, but this is due to the difference in craftsmanship and the difference is inevitable. Bracelet Details View Check out the strap details for yourself. There is not much more to say, I'm afraid I don't have enough vocabulary, so I'll have to save it, haha. Laser Marker View The shape of the laser markers is still the same as in other reproduction factories. The gen is irregularly arranged from the side, something that no factory has done, although it is not a very important detail. Luminous View The luminous colours remain consistent. As mentioned earlier, the graininess is very strong and the actual result is the same. Since we did not open the caseback to photograph the movement, as you may know, APS is equipped with the Shanghai (VR) calibre 4130, which the factory claims to have a power reserve of 70 hours, but after actual tests, it was confirmed that the movement has a power reserve of 66-68 hours, although it does not yet reach 70 hours，But the difference is already small, as the actual kinetic reserve of each movement varies slightly. Data comparison chart Note: All watches are measured in a clamped state, and there may be errors due to the slight deviation of the position of the caliper. In addition, GEN intercepts the strap, and the factory has a steel strap protective film that has not been torn off. Well, today's post is here, thank you guys for watching. If there are any mistakes, please correct me. If there is anything else I overlooked, you can put it up, and I will try my best to complete it. Welcome to comment and exchange! I will continue to bring you more detailed comparisons between replica watches and GEN’s. And it is also for you to choose the favorite models conveniently. Illustration: Some photos deviate from the real object due to the light source. For details, please refer to the content. The size of the comparison picture is relatively large, you can download it and enlarge it for comparison. There is no perfect replica, only the one you prefer. Website: https://www.theonewatches.ws WhatsApp: + 86-17081934955 Wechat: The5711

Fast Forward 50 years... . The Field Guide is genuine. The other stuff...not so much. J.Seb.... Fine looking 1016!

5517 today

"I recommend using the Korean 16200 case. They can accept gen parts, including 3135 movement..." It looks very good but an unsigned case for $500 USD (including shipping) is pretty steep imho. "For adventurous solution, I reshape Rafflesdial 2824-2 Datejust 36mm case, increase the rehaut diameter, make custom movement ring and tabs, mill the caseback, and shoehorn a 3135 movement into it." I can go along with that. I have stuck a few DJ projects together and here is what I look for: 1...Case will accept oem spec case tube, crystal gasket, and crystal. If oem spec crystals fit, oem spec bezels will too. 2...Case is correct thickness within .5 to 1.0mm. 3...Case tube centerline will work with stem location in movement to be used. 4...Case has a groove milled inside for case clamps/screws. Very important because plastic spacers need to be avoided. 5...Case has lug holes already drilled through the lugs if needed for the project. It is extremely hard to drill all four holes evenly without special tools or very good luck. 6...Case must accept 27.9mm oem spec DJ dials if oem spec dials are to be used. Some aftmkt cases use larger dials and oem spec dials fall through or just barely catch. 7...Cases made like the 16200 series with an O ring gasket in the case works better than a flat gasket on the case back. If a bracelet or 'Riyi type' strap links are to be used, there is no need for letters/numbers on the case band between the lugs. No real need for case back letters/numbers at all. I've had trouble with stamped sheet metal bracelet end links (aka hoods) fitting cases but have always been able to trim them to fit. SEL end links may be an exception because there can be a lot of metal to reshape. Stamped end links with tubes soldered inside the fold do not move around as much but can be a hassle if the hood tubes and case lug holes do not line up. I sometimes have to curve the spring bars slightly to make things fit and this is easy with stamped hoods, but not so easy with 'Riyi' types and SEL. The soldered tubes in aftmkt hoods also break away from the hood fairly easily. 'Riyi' type strap hoods: eBay item number 143281479840 FYI on 18k replica cases... With current gold prices close to $2000 per Troy ounce, my 39 gram (inc/bezel) 18K replica 36mm DJ case is now worth around $1800 at full scrap price. The case was made in Italy and is oem spec except it was made for a larger than oem dial. So...if you see one in very good condition for $1200 or $1500 it would be a fair price, unless gold prices drop drastically after you buy it. New Italian made unsigned 18K DJ 36mm cases are $5245 at ST...without a bezel, 18K submariner cases are $6795 with a bezel. Asian made cases are quite a bit less if you can find them.