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No, all is good with leaving the photos. As has been said it’s a personal opinion about the watch. For me, I’d accept it as the markers look well aligned and the little overspill of lume (glue?) could be cleaned up if it really bothers you. If you reject it the next one could be worse. If YOU like it accept it, if you’re unhappy then tell the TD why and ask for another.

Cheers. Very helpful and apologies (sorry!) if I was overly keen! I will continue with my guide as I do want to try to give something back. Mods, please remove the pictures if you feel that is right (I've reported my post). The way I read the email was that if I accepted the QC then I shouldn't post, and I haven't accepted yet, so I posted but the mods can take them down of course, but it will make the guide less helpful.

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I took your lead and got one. Love it!!

"As far as the two walls that need to come down .25mm, I have those right? Each one needs .25 off?" Yes, you need to cut half of the total needed. "But which sandpaper you suggest 600 and than 1200?" You may need a different grit to remove the material than what is used to finish up. Match the grain on the reflector (rehaut), then go with a slightly rougher grit to remove the material to save time. After it is almost sanded to size, finish up with the matching grit. Be careful not to use paper that is too rough because the scratches left behind may be hard to sand away with the finer matching grit. When spinning the case, material will be removed rapidly compared to hand sanding so measure the opening constantly. It is hard to match the angle of the reflector (rehaut) so I usually sand or machine the excess material straight down at a 90 degree angle to the dial. This will not be noticed and it prevents getting into the angle of the reflector (rehaut) and thinning the case neck down. Sometimes the number on the paper does not match the grit. I have some 'off brand' 1000 paper that is as rough as 320. I would try 600 or 1000 to remove the material and see how it goes. If you start with something rougher, 320 maybe, it might be hard to smooth it up. I have had good luck with the 3M 'Wet or Dry' (Minnesota Milling & Manufacturing Co) sandpaper as it is always consistent. If it is not available, go with another top quality brand.

'Nook, Thanks for the Jimmy Page clip. I thought I'd seen everything Zep related. That was new to me. Cheers.

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@Legend #APocketing

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Well done so far on your guide. Bare in mind what has been said already by some experienced members. As to what is ‘best’; it’s working out which flaws you can live with. Some people will want the case construction to be as per the gen so they can swap out for gen parts. Others will want a fully functioning chronograph and won’t care about sub dial spacing. In essence it’s a case of you, the buyer researching what you want and what is acceptable to you. Don’t be put off by TD’s that don’t respond to dozens of questions- they all have lots of potential customers asking lots of questions and they have to manage it the best they can. Good luck with your purchase.

Don't give up hope. Two years is not unusual and in the end it is worth it. It's worth waiting and hunting for. Sometimes when we have to wait and hope and pray for something to happen, and then it does happen, it makes the final outcome all the better. But not always. I learned a very hard lesson in a situation like this and it made me reexamine everything about lusting after something, and in the end when I had it in my hands, I was ashamed for the misplaced lust... I'd lost out on something far, far more important. In the end these are just watches. People are far more important. Never forget that.