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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/2019 in all areas

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    i know jim, im sorry. thanks foorbc the replys
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    ^Wow you even reproduced the Rolex box and guarantee card, impressive
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    Here you go http://rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c6204 Stick hands from raffles, dial from MQ or make your own. Gen 6mm crown. Phong 6200 insert. Would be a killer build, good luck. And go easy on the attitude around here.
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    Didn’t think trading sub and a few grand was worth it until I got on my wrist . So worth the wait
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    Too much green, Tompka. Change it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The bezel could be darker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Had a ref 6105 tutone (A296) in November 1990, paid $250. Also had an all steel ref 6303 (A260) at the same time, same price. Next (and last) was a 6050 BB in August 2010. All gone now. What did I learn? Parts in the early 1990s were hard to find, especially auto winding parts. A few a/w parts are now available in the aftmkt. The time keeping parts seem to be pretty good and do not cause much trouble. Oldest rlx autos I have now are a pair of 6605...one TT, one all steel (TT 1956, cal 1065, SS 1959, cal 1066). Did I move up a notch? I hope so. The 645 movement is 9.75 ligne size and they have a skirt made on the outside of the plate to make the OD 11.5''' (about 26.4mm). Rlx 15xx, 30xx, and 31xx are 12.5'''. ETA 2824/36 are 11.5'''.
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    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Wow, what stunning watches!! If you plan on doing a proper 6536 (ie not a 6536/1 that has the bigger 27.7mm dial) and get a great 6538 dial, maybe we can swap dials in the end Aftermarket dome - at least some years back the CWP T19 was a good option.
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    Flan-nge is another word in the urban dictionary here in the UK for a ladies err...thingy down below
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    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Gave trustytime a shot! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Just dusted this off from storage.
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    Being a watch modder myself, I am always against the term "simple fix" used by watch owners, along with the inherent and implicit assumptions that it will only take x minutes, and involving a simple "xxx" procedure. Yes you could be totally correct, but it will be fair to let the person who will be doing the fix comment on how simple/difficult it is. Different watchmakers/makers have different skill levels, and what you assume as "simple' may be laborious for the guy actually doing it. Competence, knowledge, experience and patience come into play when determining if a fix is "simple" or otherwise. In your case, the job requires the modder to dismantle the watch, hands, crown/stem etc to get to the dial. The marker adhesive then needs to be carefully removed and realigned, and then fixed in place. The job requires a good eye for it, and of course, steady hands and a delicate touch to get it done well. If it is so simple, why not spend 10min to do it yourself? I think it is not prudent to pre-assess the difficulty of the job and the time it will need to do it. For the watchsmith, you can try contacting @SSTEEL. He is not in the UK but he is based in Europe. He will be able to solve your issue, but once again, leave the assessment of the job to someone qualified to make them.

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