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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/2023 in all areas

  1. Hello everybody! I’m back with Clean 3285 movement(from Dandong) compared with GEN and Shanghai 3285 movement. We disassembled all the movement parts and took pictures in details, we found some differences following below. 1. The power reserve of genuine movement and clean 3285 movement are about 65-70 hours, and the power reserve of Shanghai movement is 40 hours. However, we couldn’t know the exact duration of Shanghai movement due to our hasty time . I hope it can also be stable, so that our clients would have more choices. 2. Most of genuine and Clean 3285 movement parts can be interchanged with each other. The Shanghai movement uses 3135 as a base to modify into 3285 movement, not a 1:1 clone movement. So the movement parts can be very different, such as the crafting, size, and the precision of it. 3. The Clean 3285 movement is based on the Dandong 3235 movement added with the GMT module, so there is no doubt that the stability and power reserve would be as good as always. I'm sure it will work perfectly. 4. According to Clean factory, the Dandong 3285 movement will be exclusively provided to them. During the disassembling, I can really feel the quality between these two movements. As I know, Clean 3285 movement itself would be about 50 dollars more expensive than other factories’, and you can already see the difference here. If there are other factories that can offer better accessories, people who don’t really care about power reserve will also purchase their products. Let's have a look! And here is the video: We will always do more dismantled comparing posts in the future, as well as the comparison of popular watches. And we will try our best to bring a better shopping experience to our customers. See you CTime
    2 points
  2. So it's all about building a 6350 Honeycomb ... a long journey that started about 2 years ago. Many threads have been already posted here about early Explorers, so I wont write too much and will limit myself to the main informations ... 1 - The Explorer line was registered by Rolex in January 1953 ... 2 - The 6350s were the first Rolex to carry the "Explorer" on its dial ... 3 - The "honeycomb" 6350 ... this name referring to the specific texture of its dial ... is one of the most rare model ... I've been making dials for years and, if I remember ccorrectly, my first attempt to make a negative-gilt one was mid 2016. I slowly improved my skills along the years, modifing the technics I used, and always trying to do better and to take up new challenges. This until I felt, mid 2021, that I could maybe achieve to make a gilt honeycomb dial. I started to gather informations, pics and technicals details, read articles on the topic, and think about the difficulties I would have to overcome. At the same time I started to draw the outline of the project and quickly did my first print tests. And today, almost 2 years after I started, I'm happy to present the result I reached. What has been implemented to achieve that build ? 1 - An "Explorer" box from Raffles ... which I had to put through the worst torments ... I drilled the lugs to be able to use 2mm bars, but I also thinned them to modify their profile. I also rounded the caseback to get closer to the original "semi-bubbleback". And of course I engraved the whole thing, both between the horns and inside the caseback. 2 - 316 stainless steel, a precision lathe and … elbow grease ... Concerning the bezel, very particular on the Rolex 6350, I first thought about modifying the bezel of the Raffles case but I quickly realized that the only way to get closer to the original bezel was ... to make one. So I took the time to study the profile and draw it, some 316 stainless steel, a precision lathe, some files, a lot of sandpaper ... and I ended up with a bezel that, in my opinion, is totally credible. And frankly I am delighted with the result. 3 - 6350 "honeycomb" dial ... This was the central point of the project and what required the most patience and imagination. I won't tell you in detail how I proceeded ... there are some techniques that were obvious and everyone will guess it, and there are some little tricks that I discovered through mistakes, unsuccessful attempts, hesitations and then successes. I think my efforts have paid off and I am really happy with this dial 4 - 2824-2 low-beat and no-date movement ... I wanted a recent movement, which could receive a dial with dial feet (I don't like dial-posts) but I also wanted it to be low-beat and that the crown has only 2 positions (a no-date movement). I started with an Asian 2824-2 movement clocked at 21600bph ... these movements are reputed to be of "average quality" but once disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled they work very well and can even be regulated to almost 0s/day. On the other hand I replaced the keyless works parts by those of an ETA 2801, original no-date and of better quality. The result is a new low-beat and no-date movement. 5 - Some parts bought on the market to complete the project ... - T22 plexi - BREVET + crown - 2mm fat springbars - 6200 gold plated handset … just because of the specific seconds hand ... - 1016 gaskzts set ... And that's it ... I think I've done the trick. But "without pictures it doesn't exist" you might say, so I'll stop writing and let you make your own opinion ...
    1 point
  3. [url=https://ibb.co/f4SjT77][img]https://i.ibb.co/syP8Xrr/IMG-4331.jpg[/img][/url]
    1 point
  4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
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