sconehead

Bad form Lani...no need to get personal... edit: which is why I never mentioned being deleted regarding the domain being won at auction here within a few minutes of posting on the 28th last month...

We'll have to agree to disagree on that one KB, I always thought those who stayed with the crippled ship had the salvage rights, moot point anyway I suppose, the old domain is back regardless...peace...

I'm not stirring the pot here, I'm really not but I feel I should just make a few things clear. I joined RWG.com back in 2007, followed by RWI, RG and here, RWG.cc a little while later, in that order. TRC was still running but my ageing brain cells can't remember if I was able to sign up there as well. Anyway, when RWG.com imploded, this forum offered the members a temporary home here, for which we are still grateful. The refugee threads can still be viewed here to this day. During this short period, Greg and Col decided to reform the old board as RWG.net. It ran under this guise for 14 months, steadily growing. When the original RWG.com domain came up for auction, the staff there decided to bid for it against five other parties. This was done for two reasons. Firstly, to prevent any would be scammers from using the old boards good name for ulterior motives and secondly to give .net it's identity back. It was only fitting that RWG.net became RWG.com again as it was THE direct descendant of the original board. As I stated at the begining of this post, I'm not trying to cause any problems between the forums, I'm just making clear exactly where this 'new forum' has it's roots... Cheers, Bobby...

Ahhh, but remember, when I put this into a wristwatch case it'l become seconds at 9...

As promised a pictorial tuto of my 917 rebuild that I modded the mainplate for in order to fit a 44mm case. I didn't include the pics of oiling the movement as there are quite enough already. Suffice to say if you use the 6497 oiling method along with the same grades of oil (found here, http://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html) you won't go far wrong... NB* left hand thread... I've only done this as a reference for others as this movement is being used more and more for custom builds in the community and there is precious little info out there...

Just a quick tutorial for stripping down a vintage Hamilton 917 pocket watch movement. The movement itself was running fine but in order for it to fit the 44mm case I plan to use it in, (or any 6497 case for that matter) the mainplate needs it

You insinuating RG is in it for the money??? Well I never...

Just read this thread with great interest. Using all of my reserves of quick wit and ready repartee I have but a few well thought out words to say Danzeman....you suck... Watch doesn't look that bad on the wrist to me, it's only a rep, the pot stirrer needs to get a life, a life which hopefully doesn't include inane pointless comments on this board...sad really...

TWB's have the same problem. You need to take off the bezel assy and then remove the retaining ring. Sand/file 1mm off the retaining ring and re-assemble and the insert will sit fine...

Gorgeous...Is the Yuki case 1:1 as they claim it to be and do you rate their 'refinished dials'? Guess you got the 1570 off the bay in a datejust or similar...

As far as I'm aware the movements sold by the dealers as 'Swiss' always use Asian balance assemblies and bridges to mimic the gen. They are, as someone coined the phrase 'Swinese' and normally can be identified by the stamped markings, the Asian uses decals ... @ sssurfer, I doubt genuine Panerai parts are used on them very much indeed... Edit: compare the different bridge shapes on a gen ETA to those of the gen Panerai 'H' movement...

Look here, http://www.yukiwatch.com/index.html , they used to sell on e-bay as well, good quality, I think around $450 for a case but accepts all gen parts, including movement...

Couldn't agree more, the only dead give away is the datefont, perhaps we're becoming 'rep-snobs'... Re- your request for a Pam case, I just bought a $99 111h from Robert (T4D/PWC) that looks a bit to to me like the one you require, here's a pic for you to compare... hope this helps...

@Dave...that hanglider must be getting awfully overloaded with 15000+ members...

V2/V3 dial, it's got the tick at 10, V1/V2 datewheel... edit: here's a pic of a V3 to compare it with,

There are two more rep forums you haven't visited yet as well...

Nice watch Dave, big, big, big, I like the carbon inserts. Any idea how much the gen costs and are you keeping the PO Chrono as well? @wheaton26, PWC aka Robert is Time4Direct at RWI... edit: get a new camera Dave, that smudge has been on your lens since Mexico...

Dave, just thought, this is the only place left where we can still chat . Maybe if the DW's that bad I'll give it a miss 'till the price drops. I'm thinking of a cheapo 111 to see if I like these PAM's, how's tricks anyway...you never did fetch us that monkey back from Mexico. Will I ever see you on the other board, I miss the banter ...Anyway, I digress, is the new PO keeping good time?

Bit off topic but I could have picked up a gen for

The orange on orange is a bit too loud for me but looks the part with the new-dial spacing, an Omega eh? You'll be getting a PAM next... Francisco's given the updated movement the thumbs up, so it should be reliable as well. What's the datewheel window like as it's supposed to be sunken in a bit due to the modification, is it really, really noticeable as I've been looking at this watch myself? Not a bad choice for a Breit fan...

Well, I had a spare BCE V2 watch case lying around with the intent to mod it. I've already sourced a gen crown and recently found a gen dial and bezel for it. For your reference, the gen crown requires a tap 10 stem and a new tube fitting, with a 3.5mm thread that allows for a 2mm crown tube. Before purchasing the bezel I thought I'd make sure the rep one can be removed. Here's what I found out as there are varying reports on how/if it can be done. 1. The screws on the bezel are a pain to remove, some unscrew easily, some just spin in their holes and some are so tight that you mince the heads up. I won't bore you with the details but I managed to remove all eight screws in the end. 2. The bezel wouldn't budge. 3. Hmmm, could something else be holding it on? I then decided to remove the rider tabs, three came off no problem, the last one was solid but I removed it in the end, again mincing the head up. 4. The bezel still wouldn't budge, therefore it must be pressed on. 5. Usually if something is a 'press fit' the difference in diameter of each part is normally around a tenth of a thou. No problem there, just apply heat. A hairdryer was utilised until the watch was too hot to hold, a case knife either side of the bezel and try to pry it off. No chance, it wouldn't budge. Conclusion. It is myth that the bezel is constructed like that of the gen. The eight bezel retaining screws DO NOT act as those on the gen, they go right through the bezel but something still holds it on. The rider tab screws DON'T go right through and are like those of the gen, having nothing to do with retaining the bezel. The screws are poorly made on the rep, if there's any resistance they will chew up and this was using quality Bergeon screwdrivers. The only way I can see the bezel coming off without damage is to apply heat and use some type of three legged puller. Bergeon do a bezel removal tool but it's very expensive for a one off job. I'll attempt to remove the rep bezel using other methods without damaging it but eventually I will destroy it if needs be and see what mods will be needed to fit the genuine bezel. I'll update this post if I have any success.

All the torrent sites have it...

Thanks for all the advice...

Thanks for the info, know anyone in the UK as that's where I live?

Thanks for all the comments by the way. @alligoat, if I put the watch in for a service in the near future will they replace the hands/dial/bezel etc. as a matter of course, as I'm not sure I want that to happen...