whitestripes

I can't seem to find it anywhere online. I also feel kinda sketchy asking for a case number on a gen forum... why are parts for this so hard to find?

So I want to upgrade my speedmaster date's dial and hands to gen, because while the lume is good on the hands, it's a bit green. Ofrei only has the seamaster chrono dials and hands for the 1164 movement. Anyone have any other sources?

Exactly. Andrew said a new Bond SMP is coming out soon. (1-2 months, 1-2 months ago). I assume it'll be a with a new case.

Size-wise, 40mm Rolex sports watches are perfect. When I had my noob sub, it was the first time I had a 40mm watch on (I previously wore a 37mm Seiko 5, which is definitely too small, and I currently wear a 42mm Speedy Pro on strap). It was probably the perfect size and thickness, IMHO. $$$/status wise is the issue. I am still going to school, early 20s. With new Subs starting out at $5K (at least last time I checked... it seems like they go up in price every week or so), I don't know if I can pull off the cachet and stigma of the coronet. I would hate people asking me if it's real all the time, which is a major reason why I sold my noobmariner. I thought about getting a sterile sub once, but I don't really want to shell out $240 for an ETA sterile sub with poor lume (especially when there's super reps with the same lume out here), and didn't want the Asian one. I've thought about the vintage, but I guess I just don't want a Rolex on my wrist at this time in my life. I'd say Rolex is the only luxury watch brand in 90% of people, but Omega might be growing due to the Bond connection and their name splashed everywhere on the Olympics. I know Rolex is notoriously slow to change, but they did land upon probably the most enduring case size for sports watches, 40mm. (Omega's close at 41mm) Larger case sizes are the trend for the moment, IMHO. Maybe I'm just bitter because I don't have a large wrist. I saw the new Deep Sea in person on some guy on a plane... he was smaller than I was, with smaller wrists, and it absolutely dwarfed him (not just just wrist). I thought he was going to topple over when he used his watch hand to give his ticket to the attendant. Anyway, with the perfect case size, my dream when I'm older is to get a Euromariner (16610 no lugholes, no engraving), White Explorer II, a Pepsi GMT (with coke bezel, too), and throw in a daytona for good measure. For now, I'm hoping to score some watches without the crown on the dial. It's funny, I bet I could wear a Patek Calatrava without anyone (non WIS) looking twice, but once they see the Rolex on the dial, WIS and non-WIS alike will take notice.

You can get a new Asian movement for ~$14... so 12 movements for one ETA.

I am partial to the Speedy Pro, or any Omega!

Thanks for your comment, but in the original post I excluded the Rolex sports line due to my age. I guess 40mm is just not that popular (brings to mind the IWC Mark XVI)

Ever since I got my Speedmaster Date, I've found that 40mm, +/- 1mm is the ideal size for me. I have changed my speedy Pro to leather strap, to make it a little smaller looking, and more elegant, imho. It also justifies keeping both the pro and the date, being different enough in dial layouts, bling, and strap style. Anyway, back when I had the 40mm noobmariner I was very happy with how well it fit me. Question: what reps are out there that are roughly 40mm? With all the hoopla about OVERSIZE watches, it seems that 42mm is regular (I can pull it off, but it's on the large end of the spectrum), and watches must be 44mm+ to be considered "big." It's hard to find information on smaller (dare I say regular-sized, or recently contemporary) watches. Besides the entire Rolex sport watch line (which I can't pull off as a guy in his very early 20s ... Omega doesn't carry the same name "stigma" that Rolex does, and the Pro is not flashy at all) what reps are available at 40mm? The IWC3717 I had was huge (all dial). Range of 38-41 mm(or 42 if it's a must-have, like the new Bond SMP ). I might prefer the black SMP, if it's repped (why not with the case already made?) Thanks! Just trying to build my collection of keepers!

So I just received my black-dialed Speedmaster Date. I have a gen Speedy Pro, but it's a little big for my wrists and I hate how worried I am about it all the time, i.e. taking it off before a night at the bars, worrying about scratches, all the special care you give to a watch that cost thousands. Now don't get me wrong, I love the tool-ish nature of the dial and its history, which is why I got it in the first place. I love the hesalite dial, the way it gives a "soft," vintage look to the dial. I like looking at it from different angles and seeing the light play with the recessed subdials... Well, enough of the Pro, on to its little forgery of a brother, the Speedmaster Date. When I first unwrapped it from the plastic wrap, I couldn't believe me eyes. The chrome hands and hour indices caught the light, a little bit of flash that the Pro lacks. The case is replicated perfectly, based on my trip to the AD--the twisty lugs are flawlessly done and the solid endlinks fit perfectly. The crystal has a light AR coating, seen as slightly purple. I have found that 40mm is the ideal size for my wrist. I define ideal as the watch being centered on the flat part of my wrist, with a link or two of the bracelet being visible on the top and the bottom. I know the general consensus is "if the lugs don't hang off the sides, the watch is not too big," but I disagree with part of it-- if the lugs hang off the sides, then it's ridiculously big. Even if they don't hang off the sides, it might still be too big. My Speedy Pro, while I can see a link on the top and bottom is very near the border of too big for me. However, it's lack of flashy looks is ideal for a large watch. Here's a wrist shot, I apologize for the poor quality of the photo. The gorgeous case back was a big selling point for me to get the rep. I absolutely LOVE the giant, polished seahorse. It is done very well and looks very gen. It was an excellent move on Omega's part to incorporate a larger version on all their new watches. I know display backs are all the rage these days, but a well done solid case back is always a beauty to behold. It has the anti-counterfeit Omega "globe", and a laser-etched serial on the lug, looks exactly like on my gen. The bracelet is also of the newer, curved style (a la the Planet Ocean). It is very attractive, with a little bit of bling but not too busy like the Bond SMP. Unlike other reviews, I find all the links to fit well, and the sizing system is identical to the gen, using pins and collars. The clasp, however, is not as nice as the genuine. The engraving on the clasp is a little smaller than on the real one, but it is well done and does not betray its rep identity without a side-by-side, because a non-WIS, when looking at watch, is looking for quality as a sign of a real luxury watch, not the rehaut thickness or other nit picky things. The push buttons used to release the clasp are nowhere near as smooth as my gen, so I might oil the clasp a little to get that feeling. It locks very securely, though, which is the most important thing. The movement is your typical Asian 7750, beating at 28,800 bph, so the chrono hand has that nice, gen sweep, smoother than my Pro, which runs at a leisurely 21,600 bph. The dial's printing is very crisp, and the small details all scream GEN! The date is perfectly aligned in the window. We all know the flaw with the writing being too close to the date window, and it is a little close, but definitely not touching and doesn't bother me at all. The logo has the incorrect "clown" feet, and is a little higher above the writing than in the gen. However, without being side by side with the gen you couldn't tell. If a gen dial becomes available, I will jump all over it. Hell, I might just try to source a flat feet Omega logo from Silix or something. The dial is good enough for me. Lumewise, the hands have semi-decent lume for a rep, and the hour markers are abysmal. It's a rep, so no surprise here. The lume dots are so small on the gen that it wouldn't glow strongly anyway. All in all, I am extremely satisfied with this replica. I have no problems wearing it out, and I highly doubt anyone will call me out. The quality of this rep has gotten me thinking about selling my Pro. Honestly, if this came out last year (when I was itching for the Pro or a good Date rep), I would have gotten this and never would have gotten the Pro. Now that I've had the Pro for a year, I've grown attached to it. It's a classic, and it's a gen. Yet one servicing, which I will be doing soon, will cost more than the Date rep. Sigh, the costs of a gen. I'm quite torn between selling it and keeping it. However, as By-Tor has said, "never sell a gen for a rep." I can always decide later. The Speedy Pro will hold its value. I love the Speedmaster Date. I feel that it's overlooked in the rep world, with UPOs, IWC 3717s, the whole rash of super rep Breitlings, mostly, I feel, due to its small size. Here's the gen. This is a beautiful watch. Omega certainly knows what a good watch should look like, without any leopard print or jewels everywhere.

Ofrei sells the OEM hesalite crystals. Don't know if it'd fit the rep.

Welcome Chris! I am a pre-med, and have gone on a couple of interviews around the country, including one so far in the mid-west. I've got my fingers crossed on getting into one. We all love watches, but this is a rep site-- you got any reps in mind? In the slim chance we end up at the same school, it'd be nice to have a fellow WIS and rep WIS!

He's got all the accessories! Even dealer # lol

Do they use gold to prevent any corrosion on them? ... but then they'd have to do it for the dials, too. So that might be wrong. However, I wouldn't be surprised if Rolex simply put gold on their hour indices and hands just because they can and nothing shines like gold.

Ok. Don't make fun of me for this, but the cheapest and still quite protective way of carrying watches is with a tube sock. Many of those flat case designs, e.g. the military velcro one, is that the caseback will always be getting scratched by the bracelet. It'll work well for leather bands, though. So what I do is: Take the "toe" of the sock and put it through the middle of the watch (where your wrist goes). Keep hold of the toe and take the ankle part (where you stick your foot into) and turn it inside out to fully cover the watch, so the toe protects case back and the "heel" part of the sock is wrapped around the head, so crystal/case/bracelet is all protected. You can then use the part you just pulled over the first watch to go through the bracelet of a second, and wrap that over. Repeat until you run out of sock. A normal ankle-length sock can hold 3 watches easily. Don't make fun of me too much. It works well, especially if you're not running your suitcase over with a truck.

I hope you're right Keentje, I love the 42mm PO and would certainly take it an ultimate 42mm PO above the Bond SMP. Here's to hoping, but my logical side says they won't be releasing an improved version.

Anyone know a good non AD in the San Francisco Bay Area? (east bay area preferred)

I know this isn't about a rep, but it's my favorite gen and we all love watches here, rep or not, and I need help. I've had my second-hand Speedy Pro for a year now, no major problems. This morning, I picked it up around 7 am and noticed it said 4am! I thought, hey, maybe I forgot to wind it. Then I noticed the small seconds were running. I wound it and it didn't take the usual number of winds to get to full. Something was fishy. So I set it to the correct time track more carefully. After an hour, it lost a couple of minutes! I am starting to get very, very worried. I opened the case back to take a peek, and I noticed the balance wheel was moving surprisingly slowly (as compared to my Seiko display back's balance wheel). I hacked it and let it go again, and it sped up to normal speed. Worrisome. So I decided to test the chronograph, because if the drive train is having a hard time driving the regular time keeping, then the added strain of the chrono should really signal problems. I run the chrono vs. a digital chrono. I noticed that the chrono seconds hand will stop sometimes, and it will resume with a quick shake. That happened a couple of times, enough for me to call my local watchmaker (who has dealt with a stuck hour totalizer in the past, I trust him). He's not in today. Right now I'm running the chrono, and I'll probably run it for the next 12 hours or so to monitor the progress. Surprisingly, it's gone 30 minutes of timing spot on with my ipod. So when it's running, it will do it well. But sometimes, it gets stuck. What are some possible reasons for the drivetrain to get "stuck?" I don't know the service history, but I've had it a year. I don't want to spend $90 (what the hour totalizer fix cost) to fix this intermittant problem, but if it's not keeping time (to at least the hour) it's useless as a watch. Even if it keeps time most of the time, what's the point if I have to verify it with my cell phone? How much does a full service from an independent watchmaker run? The case is in excellent condition and I think I can wait another 5 years before I send it to the Omega spa for a case refinishing. I just want the movement brought up to perfect, clean, and oiled running condition. I am in the San Francisco Bay Area. I have tried Novina fine jewelers (Omega AD) in Lafayette, he was very professional and did the job well. How much does an avg servicing cost? How long should it take? The time frame is important because this is my only Swiss watch and by far my favorite. Any thoughts? Thanks so much for your help guys UPDATE: seems to have more trouble on its side then dial up.

I don't think petitions work. We are a very small percentage of the rep industry, but probably the most anal. Remember the IWC Mark XVI thread? Tons of dealers saw it, many, including myself, asked multiple dealers about it... nothing. Still want one, though.

Sigh, it seems like the rep factories just give up on some models (good bond smps, black smp) You're right, though, about the hotcakes. The 42mm is the only watch that stands the test of time. 45mm is a fad. With my 6.5" wrists, the UPO looks ridiculous. I've wanted an Omega diver for a while, and was seriously considering the Bond SMP (which should be coming out soon), but I'd prefer the PO. Still, if they perfect the SMP case I might have to pick up a black one. Would that be redundant?

So I've got an incoming black speedy date 3210.50, and it's damn near a super rep, and only thing that matters, imho, is the clown feet on the logo and the writing is a bit close to the date window. I don't mind it being too close, (as long as it doesnt touch!!!). But the clown feet would stick out to me (although no one would call it out, especially with the serial and the "planet omega" logo). I know people order silix PO dials with flat feet and transfer it over... how is that done? Does silix still do that? Is there a tutorial? Just want to fix the only eye-catching flaw. I'm so excited about my new Date. Been thinking about this one for a while. Will probably spring for the new Bond SMP (iff the applied Omega has the lines through the middle, not underlined like OMEGA, which will scream out to me every time I look at it (sold an Aqua Terra for this reason). Clown feet is one thing, underlined is a very different thing. Some gen eye candy (now THAT is a sharp looking watch!)

Hey guys, I was after the Speedy Date before it was a rep, and I got a gen Speedy Pro before the Date was repped. I've been wearing the Pro for the last year, and I like it, but I miss the date sometimes. Now that there's a super rep of the Date, I'm torn between two color configurations, the all black, and the black with white subdials and red accents. Click these for very high res pics that make me salivate! Honestly, best up close pics on the net. (replace xx with tt) BLACK hxxp://www.dotcom-life.com/joyful-watch/cart_goods/cart_img5/joycoll3210-50-0002.jpg SPORTY RED hxxp://lib4.store.yahoo.co.jp/lib/10k/3210-51-0002.jpg These are beautiful up close shots. So I'm considering the black because, well, it is fairly incognito, like the Pro, and it will go well with everything without being flashy. Classic, handsome black, like my Pro. But if I'm going two have two speedmasters, perhaps some variety? The colorful one offers a change of pace, like a racing style, with red subdial hands and red tipped chrono seconds hand. I would jump all over it if it were offered with the standard black dial and subdials... I kind of don't like how the white subdials stand out so much on the wrist (I don't like attracting attention to my wrist). The TAG carrera "racing" is a very nice color combination, and would be ideal. I would get that, but Omega really has beautiful case designs. The twisty lugs, the way the bezel comes out from the case, oh man, it's perfect, IMHO. I like the shape better then the IWC 3717 before I sold it. Anyway, so I like the black because I know I will like it, but I'm afraid it won't be different enough (still love the date function, though). I like the black/red accents because it's sporty and different, but it might stand out too much. I've also found that while color combos are appealing on the screen, in person they stick out like a sore thumb. I once had a modded Seiko SKX031 with a seconds hand that had a white AND red lume next to each other on the seconds hand tip. I thought I would love it from the pics, but in person it just kept screaming out at me until I sold it. I'm afraid this will happen to the 3210.51. But maybe it wont? But then again, $250-$300 is a bit too high to pay to test it out, and I don't want to sell at too much of a loss. What would you guys do?

My chief complaint is the misrepresentation, not the merits of the watch itself (although it is green, not even close to white)

You have very classy taste, and other than the rhodium, very sharply focused pictures. Nice!

Take a look at eBay item # 180289398518. It looks like a pretty good deal, a nice MoD style watch, SWISS ETA quartz, white-lumed MoD dial. I picked it up as a beater. When I got it, I was floored by the color of the lume. It looks nothing like the lume in the pictures, but an even lime green color throughout. It's the I-can't-make-out-the-white-even-if-I-put-it-in-direct-sunlight kind of lime green. It looks like a throwaway $10 piece of crap with this lume color, which I think it is. (Hong Kong seller, probably got it for $10. The lume pip is the same color. The hour hand, by virtue of being so large, can be made out in the dark, whereas I have to be very optimistic in seeing lume from the hour indices, even in direct sunlight. The lume on our reps is far, far better, it pains me to say. The bezel is sloppy, and the insert is misaligned, of course. I asked him for a refund because of the color misrepresentation. I feel that in a dive watch, green colored lume significantly detracts from the look of the watch, and the image on the site was misleading. "no refunds if watch works" Two back and forths and it's done, seller doens't want to deal with it = negative feedback. On his response to my negative feedback, he said "Seller must be confused." I don't know how I can be confused: I know white and green, and more importantly, how to tell them apart. So I'm posting it on here because I'm trying to sell it at a quarter off on the gen boards (and people are still buying it from his website so someone must want it...). I got some inquiries, and one guy asked if it really was Swiss ETA. I opened the case back to a sea of plastic, most of movement and movement holder. I look in the plastic, and engraved is "Swiss parts" "China Movement." On the one metal part next to the battery was the ETA logo, very thinly stenciled in. I've seen better ETA stamps on rep 2824 movements. Anyway, he was advertising it as Swiss ETA, which I feel means it is a Swiss-made mov't, which means the parts must be Swiss and at least 51% made there (or something like this...) I read that there are legitimate ETA mov'ts made for the Asian market there, but they are most certainly not Swiss ETA movements. Swiss parts, but not a Swiss movement. So if it's real it's misleading, and if it's a poor quartz fake, it's misleading. He also sells more expensive "Swiss ETA 2824" movements in the $300 range. I bet it's Asia ETA. Don't know what the Swiss made means to others, but I'm pretty sure some part of it must be made and assembled in Switzerland. Now I'm saddled with this POS watch. I've seen better in Wal-mart for $20, better fit and finish. Now I'm saddled with this watch that pains me to look at. I might have to drop down to $50 in a few weeks... I paid $65 + $18 shipping for it, which would have been decent if there were functional lume and a SWISS ETA quartz movement in it. All in all, beware of this seller and his movements/color representation. I don't know about you guys, but I'm finishing my undergrad and $83 isn't exactly pocket change, but it would have been a nice beater with white (doesn't even have to be luminous) lume and Swiss ETA. /rant

Don't forget about the Omega with lines through the bottom Omega instead of through the middle. This is a VERY common flaw and it prevents me from getting reps with this particular logo.