highoeyazmuhudee

OK I got the part today. shipping was quick initial impressions are "ehn" fit and finish compared to mbk is slightly less, this part has rough edges on some parts where you can see where it was milled and feels like slightly cheaper metal, especially in the flat friction washer. the auction stated it came with instructions but the instructions consisted of how to install the bezel insert ONLY. If you know how to install the whole bezel assembly then chances are VERY good you wouldnt need a reference for the bezel insert. it didnt come with a rubber gasket, so luckily i had one, after installing the gasket it didnt seem to stick out the bottom of the retaining ring as much as it did on my mbk retaining ring. Not sure if this is a good or bad thing the retaining ring went over the crystal and gasket with very little effort in comparison with the mbk one where I had to use a vise and a homemade PVC press die, which I was preparing to do again with this one. given that I hope it actually is water resistant. the bezel ring edges seem a little flat at the coin edge. On a side note the bezel ring fit the MBK-euromariner retaining ring just fine. Bare in mind I didnt try it with all parts installed but just wanted to see if it would snap over the retaining, turn, and stay in place. it did. so this may be another option for someone with a defective euromariner bezel ring (teeth in the ring are too high) Here's where i ran into a problem with the retaining ring from "watchbandman" the hole for the click spring seems only 1/4 of how deep it actually should be in order for the click spring to insert into it, in actuality the click spring wont stay seated in the too shallow hole. it's just too small, even the MBK is perfectly milled. So that's where I am. options? find a 0.40mm drill bit, and use a handheld pinvise to deepen the hole about 1mm< or return it and have an unfinished watch indefinitely what do you guys think? is using a pinvise and a 0.40mm bit to deepen the hole a good idea? picture included: you can see the tiny click spring hole on the retaining ring

also I found starting within the last 7 days when you goto search and view your posts it only shows your last post instead of the last poster to that thread, so it makes determining if someone posted after you at a glance impossible.

Ive installed crystals while the white casket was on the crystal and i've installed the gasket first then pressed the crystal into it...both have worked well, I believe installing the crystal INTO the gasket after installing the gasket in the case to be the correct way. A lot of people change out the gasket after reinstalling the crystal due to it bending or warping and not holding its shape precisely, causing water to possibly leak in the case through humidity. I can see how installing a new gasket is a good idea but *may be* overkill for a simple reinstall unless you really damage the gasket. link to helfands ebay store as it was mentioned in this thread: http://myworld.ebay.ca/helfands/

a lil bit of both

noobdials cost about $10 but im not sure the size of the order required for that pricing I think we could have a better dial created than the WRM4009 dial jmb is talking about, maybe even a noob without the date window. I've checked out the watch eden one as well. it's decent but I feel we could do better, especially with the "swiss made" print. Chris could the noob factory create their dial with out the date window punchout and an extra hour marker? is this a good option?

nice attempt. awesome lug hole drilling i think your bracelet is on backwards tho apply this to a noobmariner with non sels and pop off the cyclops with heat or acetone and itd almost be perfect

WOW good stuff. what's the item number?

I agree we should take care of our own lug holes since the pilot holes are already there and help keep costs down. You could probably even enlarge them with a pinvise. As for the engraving between the lugs I rarely see mine so re-engraving may raise costs, if not, then yeah reengrave them 14060, more of an issue for people who are planning this for a nato strap i suppose. V3, Clarks, proper endlinks, 14060 dial COSC or NON COSC to be voted on?, choice of movement

datejust is classy and a cheap franken to make

regularly or only on certain dates?

You wont need DWs for 14060 Chris and will a clarks no date crystal fit a V3 since the 14060 is naturally smaller and the euromariner V3 is of a 16610? Rosnik im no expert but you can probably remove that crown position from the keyless works by filing down the bump, The Zigmeister would obviously know more as i believe hes actually removed it. But if not its not really a big deal to have to pull out the crown one extra position and doing this wouldnt be the firts give away of a rep any ways. Im more interested in appearance and that should take precedence

Id buy a copy ETA and am probably alright with a v3 case but i'd have to see pics of a sample for sale using the v3. Just make a good dial with or without superlume depending on how much more SL costs. Looking forward to it

I droped a lens on carpet and the filter shattered with some glass dust finding its way into the lens right under the exterior of the element both front and back but its never shown up in my pics even at f/22 and on a long exposure which i use to hunt for dust spots on the sensor. I brought it to canon and they really didnt want to touch it as it seems. They gave me the whole cant gaurantee they wont damage it spiel or even get all the dust out but would still charfe me for trying. That was enough for me to say forget it and walk away.

good stuff! that prohunter DSSD LOOKS AWESOME! i'd even consider the DSSD now... in PVD.

NICELY done. I couldnt get the holes lined up accurately enough for my liking on my sub. i found there was too much bend in the bit when drilling into the curved down lug, the bit kept slipping a bit by bending cause of the curvature of the lug.

Looks good here ebay seller?

i think the noob dial looks better on a lughole sub

that was a ton of threadlocker

just buy a seiko. BEST VALUE ever for a tool gen

I suggest you go visit an AD and hold a gen 16610, you may be shockingly disappointed about what the $7,000CDN price tag gets you (minus their 18% offering of course). After playing with my MBK (which isnt even as good as a wm9v2)and visiting an AD to play with their gen sub I would not spend $7K on a watch that has maybe $500 worth of anything in it, I cant justify it ONE bit. I couldnt wake up every day and hold this piece of stainless metal and be satisfied that it cost $7K. There is SO MUCH more that this amount of money could buy and I couldnt factor the amount for the materials into this price tag. I wouldnt spend more than $3500 on a genuine sub. So if I were you I wouldnt unless I have to much money and im getting bored of lap dances. I think with all the attention and perfection we put into our reps they actually come out more polished in fit and finish, where as the gen felt kind of sloppy in feel and appearance. After seeing this watch in the flesh and inspecting it for a good 5minutes, from the pics I see of wm9s V2 it actually looks spot on, amazing really that wm9 could build this watch for probably $300(speculating) and Rolex has to charge $7,000 +tax for the same steel and glass. (note the new 14060 is only $400 cheaper)

ALRIGHT, I just paid for the assembly from watchbandman, lets see what I get and how long it takes... pictures and review to follow.

But you can order a gen display back from Omega

Even the crown guards are very different looking. And the bezel ring seems a tad shorter

+1 for Clarks -1 for wholesale outlet as their hour hand isnt good enough

I'd buy one even tho I own a date sub, and I think a lot of people here would as well. try and get some samples made without the engraving and we can assess it. Would you guys use CAD or just let MBK take care of it? in a pinch a v3 case with lugholes a clarks no date crystal and proper dial and proper hollow endlinks would probably work as well. build one.