eddiemonster

You, w0lf, babola & projectologist are rockstars of grail Panerai builds. This is such a special build, it helps to have friends in the right places ; ) Wear this beauty in good health!

Nice, the white base titanium is an interesting combo!

I would try to email Pornthip, who owns Pantast aka Strapslover straps. Pretty phenomenal craftsmanship, great leather & originality too! Oh, and his prices are cheap!!! I'll get you his email if I can find it.

Regardless of make or model, auto or manual, Swiss or Asian- I have never experienced a watch movement in which you would wind counter-clockwise to power up.

You are correct, Babola has explained that the H factory just used the same font type from its previous endeavors to print the 26 dial. But unless you wear a loupe for eyeglasses- that's just splitting hairs on a rep that is less than the sales tax of a gen.

In the picture, you are correct, the new 005 does have a flat gasket and not the tubular type. You are also correct that the 005 lever closes a bit too tight, but there's room for the gasket nonetheless as it sits in a recess and the force of the lever will compress the rubber regardless.

Mickey, while OP was just doing this to experiment, a cannibalization of certain parts of these 2 models would make the 005 uber indistinguishable from gen. They are from 2 different factories and hence have slight variances. What I would do and why to build the perfect 005K: - use the movt. from the 111J- this J factory uses a higher grade Seagull 6497, it's high vs. low beat and has an accurately shaped swan neck vs. needle regulator, the OP markings are also engraved vs. printed onto the movt. plates. - use the crown from the 111J- it has a more pronounced bevel to the teeth, which makes it appear a tad thinner per gen. - caveat to the above, the crown tubes & crowns are machined differently b/w the 2 factories, so I think each crown must be used w/it's respective case, so you would have to use the 111J case, which has slightly more pronounced strap notches, but unless your strap is invisible, who cares? The biggest benefit would be that the crown & case combo of the J factory gives you perfect space, allowing a peek of the hexagonal crown tube, per gen- whereas the H factory is both crown is both a hair too thick/ squarish and pressed too close to the case. - use the CG from the 111J, it's roller ball tip is more accurate, the H factory's tip is too thick & bulbous. The V CG w/ standard tip is generally inaccurate for a K-series, although I believe some of the early K serials had a non roller tip.

Never been a fan of vintage Rad-style PAMs, but, this one has changed my opinion! Milesd, you should change your name to Midas!

DSN's have incorrectly shaped screw caps- they are larger in diameter and not flat. I have bought mine from WSO and have not had strippage yet.

It's all subjective and the debate could go on forever. But judging by the comments made by some esteemed members who own both the ultimate Daylights series & the new Rad 288- it's pretty unanimous that the 288 currently reigns as the most accurate hands down. The 111J is nice, but doesn't look like they have made any changes to the movt. decoration (cotes de geneve & engraving).

Very clean, love it. Two cheap things you can do that would almost make it perfect would be a set of pre-v hands and a pair of oem looking pre-v style double screw bars. Both of these items are cheap & readily attainable off ebay (helenarou & wholesaleoutlet, respectively). Of course, an FGD 201/A dial would just take it over the top, but the DSN dial looks good (looks texturized/matted?)

Congrats Marty. You have re-inspired to have another go at it! Picked up a Jakob CB this AM, reserved a FGD dial tonite!

Marty speechless and envious of your mad skillz! Congrats to another beauty in the making!

Sweetness Marty! What's next to do?

Well, after 2 years, I should have known better than to say never sell, I sold the 201A in moment of stupidity! But quickly added a modded 113 E and 001BT: DSN w/ superlume, crisp engraved bridges, T-48, modded TB CG: Old school caseset, Ziggified T-lume dial & hands, Palp v.2, ultimate CG, thick "shadow" CB:

Here is a quote from a watchsmith & member of RWI: "I also noticed that the movement was very dirty, with large chunks of dirt and various fibers (white and blue, mostly) found throughout. I even found a dried-up piece of lettuce or some other leaf. The keyless works were bone dry, though the stem and sliding/winding pinions were greased. None of the pivots had any oil on them (I checked thoroughly). The balance jewels *may* have been oiled, as they remained stuck to each other during removal. If you know A7750s, you know this is all very routine stuff". The Chinese have been known to put cardboard in their roast pork steamed dim sum buns, and melamine in baby formula, sulfur in drywall- so it only makes sense that they'd put some cilantro in their watch movts. There's a reason it's now the world's largest economy, cheap labor, cheap everything, anything for buck...

Should work too.

There are 2 things you can do if you don't have a different crown stem to remount the crown so that it sticks out further from the case. If the lever tip is grazing or making any sort of contact w/ the crown dish, then I would suggest that you simply shave the CG feet, this will essentially bring the CG in closer to the case when mounted. Use a metal hobby or jeweler's file (available at Home Depot in the tools section) to shave some metal from the feet and simply retest the fit periodically. Second method, if the gap is too much, then you need to fabricate a shim that will add material to the dish of the crown. The easiest way to do this is to use a single hole paper punch on a thin piece of aluminum. I simply use the metal pull tab from a soda can. The punch will punch thru the aluminum and give you perfect circular piece of metal- you may have to flatten it out a bit by striking gently w/ a mallet. Then simply use an adhesive like Gorilla glue to glue the piece of aluminum to the center of the crown dish. Voila, the lever should now tighten up against the shim. You may have to double up on the aluminum depending on the size of the gap.

LOL!!! Haha, I got my 360, how about you!?

LOL Mike, never knew that side of you! I don't know him personally, but in general, It disgusts me knowing that amongst the circle jerkers, that dude is frolicking in NYC on the loot he's made selling his over-priced straps and money he's scammed from others. It's a shame that 'Risti would shutdown any attempt to out one of their fraternity brothers for scamming people of their hard earned $$!

That'll look really nice once you install the T-48, but I think you should try to source a cartel or TB ti CG altogether as the DSN one is too thin on the underside side of the lever, making the over all CG housng too thin in general.

These four, I will probably never sell FGD 201A, Swiss 6487, Jakob case back, no AR sapphire, thick crown, historic CG, DSN hands, double screw lugs... FGD 205A, Swiss 6497, The Zigmeister tritium lumed & matted dial, FGD pre-v hands, no AR sapphire, T-48 crown, LH CG, Jakob case back... FGD Pre-A 002, Swiss 6497, FGD pre-v hands, The Zigmeister vintage lumed & matted dial, T-48 crown, A-series CG, no AR sapphire, correct caseback... LH 111H, handpicked A6497, superlumed, textured dial, thick crown, LH CG, single-sided AR sapphire...

To be perfect, you need to somehow get a 6mm cyclops on there. I reckon the easiest way would be to find a older cartel Ultimate 199 which had the incorrect 6mm cyclops (the cartels have since updated to correct 7mm) and do a swap, then both pieces will be correct and you can easily resell the 199 w/ the correct 7mm cyclops. Just not sure if Submersible crysals are interchangeable b/w DSN case & cartel case?

Also looks like this has a thicker font date wheel already installed- the biggest plus!

Sweet, did you go thru Narikaa to source that? Is it a roller ball lever on the CG?