Thanks. I wasn't planning on touching the insides much until I get a new crown/tube as to get in there, I need to take the tube out.
Apart from that, it's ok?
ps. This is my first attempt, so you're allowed to say it's crap if it is.
On a third-hand Grey-market watch?
Yeah, stick with Omega. You've got some serious mojo running there. They like you.
Damn, a reconditioned-as-new co-axial for $700! That is some bargain. Congrats.
I'm currently modding the crown guards on my 1680 Sub and am in dire need of advice. As you can see from the photos, I'm trying to get a more accurate shape, but I don't know if I'm just turning my fancy watch into a lump of scrap ...
Experts, how much more do I need to remove? Am I being way too conservative?
If there are angles you need to see, I'll reshoot as needed as long as it'll help me get this right.
Bangkok Best
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If it were that easy, someone would be doing it. To get a little old man in China to be hand-modding your Daytona, when it can never be 1:1 due to the lack of access to the right-sized movement, you would need to give him a genuine Rolex Daytona to model it on. This watch would be worth more than his lifetime's salary.
Well, that degenerated quickly from a genuine offer to Leonado ranting.
"Some people are like Slinkies. They're not much use for anything, but they can be entertaining when you push them down the stairs."
I'm not doubting that the text is printed on the inside, but remember the dial also says Rolex on it, and you know that's not true.
The Swiss movement, if it is indeed Swiss, will be a 27j ETA 7750 with transfer gears to move the seconds from 9 to 6. It's most likely not a Swiss movement, however.
The difference between the two daytonas you posted is one is a chronograph and the other isn't.
The seconds-at-six Daytonas are all pretty much of a muchness.If you get a good one, it'll serve you well. If you get a bad one, it'll die in weeks.