cskent69

The other big dial tell is the right hand leg of the first A in Panerai. That leg is short and ever so slightly misprinted in most of these PAM 7750 GMT's (Might only be the Anthacite dials). However, from your pictures - your looks correct. I hope that they are updating all the GMT dials like this!

I have a gen Omega Seamaster GMT with the very bracelet you speak of. I love it. It has never come apart on my hand and mine is nearly 5 years old. Do you wear the watch on your right hand so that the catch is closest to your wrist? I just tried to undo the clasp in all manners in which you describe and I can not do it. I wear the watch on my left hand with the catch away from my wrist.

Perhaps it is a matter of adjustment?

They're starting to learn this....sort of. They've learned they can sell a lot of watches by increasing their attention to detail several notches, fixing flaws that two years ago would have just sailed under the radar through mulltiple versions. But they've also learned that those of us demand a superior level of detail will pay much more than $200-$400 for it.

My guess is that there are still, perhaps unwritten, rules against perfection. The flaws that exist on the super-reps are too obvious to be unintentional--missing words on the back, serial # 0001 or no serial at all, for example. My guess is that if they do get the mag right on the 104 there will be several other flaws, intentional or not. What we need to do is pray to the rep Gods that these flaws can be modded away. I'll make a deal with them: If you put a dime thin crown on these babies and fix the "A's" I'll still buy 2!

Ahh yes - the "A's". The bane of my PAM existance. I dream of a fixed 063 dial.....

Angus - any news?

To my knowledge - the 1575 and the 3135 date window placement are not the same.

No no.....

Clenched teeth. Squinting eyes, with dremel and Nail cutting disk...

Yeah - that ought to do it.

Nice!

Hacksaw it is!

Ok - so yes - this is a stupid question - since no one else has asked it, it means it must be obvious.

How does one change the buckle on a strap (not PAM ones - that is obvious). Do you just "force" the buckle open to get the pin out of the strap? I am a bracelet wearer - not a strap guy and I am delving into the world of straps. I just don't want to ruin one (permanently bend) one if i do not have to. I do not see another way to do this.....

Thanks

Great job. Congrats!

I will take at least 1.

Lello, any possibility of speeding up the Breitling datewheels? I could use a couple of those!!

Any chance to look at the clasp? Looks pretty good!!

What is powering this one?

Ok - did not know that the II actually came as ll

Thanks for the clarification By-Tor.

That means that some of the reps that I have been looking at were much better than I thought. Good to know.

Does this look wrong to anyone else?

http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-MENS-ROLEX-S...1QQcmdZViewItem

Dial wrong. Placement of hands meant to obfuscate the stack, right?

Everything else looks right though. Is this a dial I am not familiar with?

Very interesting. I am no expert but the GMT hand point look a little large. Nice bracelet (hollow mid link it seems) but clasp logo a little pointy. Crown is not quite the right shape.

I also has one of the better dials I have ever seen for the GMT2

i'm with pugwash. Great White. Double red is to conspicuous - for me anyway.

Did I say that?

I did replace a 2836-2 in a PAM GMT with a 2893-2 model, so that seems to be a possible modification... I can't remember the details on the hands, since the rep GMT hand does not fit the ETA 2893-2. But I did the work a while back, just can't remember who it was for, or the details.

It was quite straight forward and not that difficult.

RG

Rob - that was me. One of my prized possessions!

I have reservations about the Watchmeister datewheel overlay, but, other than that, once you get the hands to match (or just tell people Rolex replaced the original hands at the last service) you will be looking good.

I have most of the same mods. I hesitate on the overlay as well. You have confiirmed what i thought might happen. It is a little fuzzy. Better on a 1665.

Fantastic watch. Love the clasp.

Yeah - i had the exact same thoughts. I was going to swap out my mystery movement - but then i started to look at the vintage watches that i was going to be gutting. They are really nice. Then i thought - why would i do that to a great genuine vintage? For instance, the old Heuers are beautiful.

Great looking daytona though.

Great pictures. Dare i ask - what was the donor that lost its poor heart?

I would do it. I have both the Link and the Carrera and i hvae been contemplating the same. Both of those watches are big time reflective and i know they would look better if they had AR. Agree with By-tor - we are the only people who notice those things. Make it so you enjoy it.

freddy333 - i commend you. I love this hobby and these watches - but i am still a little chicken when it comes to any type of sophisticated movement work (thank god for The Zigmeister). So, here's to you. Can't wait for the pictures. Let us all know what you end up doing about the caseback and dial. Also, i thought that the 1570 didn't work in that case without significant mods.

@Eunomians - we all prefer those silver datewheels.

Thanks guys. Looks like I should stay away from this band unless i dare to break a link.

I have been looking at different genuine bracelets for my 1665. Given that some of the original 1665 DRSD's came with the 9315 bracelet. I was wondering - in looking at all of the pictures that I can find of that think - how does one re-size that? THere are no pins or screws.

Do you "unfold" the links to adjust? That seems pretty risky...

Experts, please help!

Well, as a person who is actively trying to solve a similar problem - i want to go with the flat top 3's on my 1680 but am reluctant to attempt to get the Watchmeister overlay in the 1680. (I have it in my 1665 - and it looks great). I am not sure that I will like it under the date magnification.

However, i have other overlays that I have been attempting and they have not been positioned correctly in the window (with all numbers being to left justified). So, at this point - I am willing to go with any metal overlay solution which will place the date into the center of the date window. I can't stand mis-aligned dates. Yes, i have seen these messed up in genuine watches (none rolex) but it still bothers me.

So - in your DRSD - i would go with the Watchmeister overlay. It will look great if you can get in aligned the way you like it.

visually this one is the best. It's the correct hand stack version (hour-gmt-minute-second). I did mod the CGs (shaved the inside). The dial, the rehaut thickness (not depth) - I mean there should be some distance, about the width of the six o'clock indice marker, from the insert to the edge of the dial - are perfect. Correct crystal height and bevel. Date window correctly placed (not too far to the right like many versions) and correct cyclop mag.

Mechanically, it's suspect. Some people are luckier than me. Mine had the slipping hour hand. I took it to a watchsmith to reset the hour/minute hand relationshiop. So far so good. This version comes in the wrong hand stack as well, more reliable, only sacrificing the look on the hand stack a little.

Josh's expensive version has a 2893-2 movement but visually much inferior and has wrong hand stack too.

-bk

Very nice. I read somewhere that the correc hand stack version does not really operate like the Rolex though. I bet that it was a The Zigmeister writeup. Anyway - yes - it seems like to get the best GMT - you need to buy the 2893 and mesh it with a CN 2836rep (for the dial and the datewheel overlay). Too expensive.

It is really too bad that they can not do that vulcan watch meld themselves!