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trailboss

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Posts posted by trailboss

  1. I believe that that Tony is also TonyXKF aka Watcheden, so in that regards, considered a sanctioned dealer on RWI, and under apprenticeship here :)

    No, different guy entirly. A7750.com tony can be found at RWG1.1 now and again. There are several reviews of his watches and comments over there. Search for "A7750.com" should round up most of them.

    If anyone has probs we have his phone number in our admin files.

    Col.

  2. That looks like it is made for the Aussie crowd, using Ford's Holden vehicles as donor

    LOL, you wanna get lynched? There's prob not a quicker way in OZ than to call Holden a Ford company! The full name now days is General Moters Holden or GMH for short. The Holden Motor Company produced the first wholey Aussie car with the 48-215 in 1948 and is the sworn enemy of Ford fans in OZ. And visa versa of cause. Aussie motor sport revolves around the Holden vs Ford battle that has raged ever since.

    And yes, DRB make a nice car. Some of the best Cobra reps out there actualy. I once drove a gen 427 Cobra and it frightened me. About a ton in weight and 500+ HP with masive understeer if pushed hard. Great fun but scary. That and the fact that even then (15 years ago) it was worth a half mill or so. It's an awsome beast but there are far better road cars. The reps tend to be a tad more user friendly however.

    Col.

  3. IMO, most of the truly bad english is from folk for whome it is a first language. To truly foul up a language you have to know it backwards apperantly. Most of you EU guys amaze me with your english skills especialy since it's such a bugger of a language to learn.

    Col.

  4. That's what I thought when I saw this. It amazes me that such a large casino didn't use RFID in their chips. After all there are only a handfull of casinos in OZ. Seven or so I think, Brisbane, Gold Coast, Townsville, Sydney, Melbourne, Hobart and Perth.

    Col.

  5. You will need A4 paper, envelope and ball peen hammer

    Put a piece of A4 paper on the table then holding your watch above the paper give the crystal a sharp with the ball of the hammer....*side note: this is a good way to test crystal, glass will shatter sapphire breaks in chunks*....Now carefully turn watch around so all pieces of the crystal fall onto the paper (you may need to give the back of the watch a bit of a tap to get all the piece out, I find the flat hammer head useful for this), once all the pieces are out put the watch aside and get someone to hold the envelope open for you, your wife/girlfriend or the cute chick next door that you never had the guts to talk to will work, then lift the edges of the paper so all contents fall into the center and simply pour your crystal into envelope.

    Seal and send to Chief, he will glue all the pieces back together, AR it and have it back to you within a week.

    Use this week to work out how you will refit the crystal.

    Or whether it is even worth doing so to the now non functioning watch :D

    Ken ;)

    LMAO.gifLMAO.gifLMAO.gifLMAO.gifLMAO.gifLMAO.gif

    Super Secret crystal removal tip: (I've seen this on other forums but not here.)

    1) Remove the caseback.

    2) Press the stem release button and carefully pull out stem.

    3) Not required, but very strongly recommended: Unscrew clips holding movement in, and carefully remove movement assembly.

    4) Re-install caseback, carefully aligning threads, and making sure o-ring seal is seated properly. (You need the watch to be air-tight).

    5) This is the fun one. Locate fancy bergeon blower bulb with pointy tip or something similar that you can squeeze while holding flush to the crown tube (hole in side of case). I've used a plunger for inkjet printer refills that has a perfectly sized small plastic tip. A regular blower bulb might work if you can keep the contact tight. I've also considered a bicycle tire pump with presta-style valve end. (Yes, I'm that crazy).

    6) Hold your plunger/bulb flush to the crown/stem hole and start slowly squeezing. It takes less pressure than you would think. You get a loud pop, and the crystal flies out with varying force. Make sure not to lose the seal. For me it has always stayed intact in the watch.

    Yes this sounds risky, as stuff is going to fly around a bit. On the other hand, the perfectly even pressure from the inside on the crystal should in theory be ideal.

    I've found I don't need a press for the re-install. Just do it very very carefully and slowly. Place the crystal flat on the case. Keep methodically pressing while making sure it's absolutely level all around. I keep rotating the case while checking the depth with a loupe, then I press a bit at a time with my palm. Eventually it pops into place. Note that these are my completely ghetto, "Tools? We don't need no stinkin' tools!" tips for the adventurer type. If something tragic happens, I first try to learn from the mistake, then I work hard to completely repress the memory of the accident. There are now at least a few blank spots in my past. The repression gets easier with practice. Also, there are meds that can help. Ask your doctor.

    p.s. Don't skip step 3. I did that once (removed stem but left everything else in the watch intact), and the hands blasted off during the pop along with the crystal. No damage amazingly, but a huge scare. And I had to find that tiny sub-second hand somewhere far off in my room (I did eventually).

    Interesting idea. Seems sound to me as long as you have some kind of crystal catcher set up.

    Col.

  6. Yep, good tools are a investment for life and Bergeon are the Snap-On of watchmaking. You think watchmaking is expensive? Try motor mechanics. My set of tools (mostly Snap-On) would be the bare minimum for a working mechanic and owes me something on the far side of thirty grand!

    I used a cheap Indian hand lifter for a couple of years (polish the base of the feet), and the end of an empty biro refill to set the hands

    Yep, and I suspect that I'm still useing that very same hand lifter. It works again BTW Offshore, I fixed the bent bow spring and it pushes evenly again.

    Jody: You could do with a hank of Rodico too mate. It's proberly the single most usefull substance in watchmaking from holding hands to removing marks from dials and dust from MVTs. Some watchmakers paper wpuld also be nice. Used for wraping or protecting parts (storeing dials, hands etc) it leaves no lint behind. Appart from that and a small pair of nedle nosed pliers, a very small hammer and a bench vice you have it covered. Buying some very small ziplock plastic bags would be a good idea too.

    Take good note of the chapter on you work area, Clean and clear is the way to go. Fortunatly I have a tiled room to work in as carpet is a great black hole for small parts that will invitably spring from your grasp. Most importantly, have fun!

    Col.

  7. Any of the Rolex Day Date or Date justs will be fine or maybe a MB Timewalker, a Graham or my favorite of the super reps the Ebel Discovery.

    Timewalker.

    200811302154212.jpg

    Ebel. This is the "panda" version. It also comes in black on black. The gen now comes in colours so hopefully so will the rep soon.

    ebel_discovery.jpg

    These are perfect but for chrono pushers a half mm too long.

    The De Witt Academia is damn close as well.

    AcademiaChronograph.jpg

    Or go for something that no one will recognise even if it isn't that close to the real thing such as this $125 Patek.

    PP10014PerpetualCalenderRGWhite.jpg

    If you have 500 odd to blow and want a dress watch I can recomend Homer's tourby. No one can call you out on this, it's a gen! The tourbilion will make it the talking point of any party and "everyone" knows tourbys are horribily expensive so asume it's a ten to one hundred grand watch.

    tourby1.jpg

    This one however may get called every now and again. :)

    IMG_1728Medium.jpg

    Regards, Col.

  8. Gioarmani: How much more specific do you need? Those are part numbers for Chinese MVTs and the question appears clear to me.

    What2: Yes, hand sizes are the same between those two.

    The standered hand sizes for these should be 152/100/17. Gen hands, however will not fit. The dial should fit either MVT with no trouble. Not shure but the MVT holder should be indentical as well.

    Regards, Col.

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