JoeyB

I had no idea how difficult it would be to make a bezel. Just like the insert, there are so many variances, wear and tear over 60 years, with no definitive specs from Rolex at all. Rolex used at least 6 suppliers for the insert, so they likely had to adjust the bezel to fit those on hand. You might notice in some of the pictures of 6542s that some bezels have little 'tabs' that hold the insert in. So, I studied all I could find, and looked at as many pictures as I could see, and as I did with the insert, chose one to copy. I think it came out nicely. I had the retainer made from stainless, per gen. The gen 6542 crystal is a 25-115, no longer in production and a fortune if you can find one. I have not tested that one, but Rolex has used the 25-116 to replace the 25-115 for many years. Then I found that Rolex has had 3 different 25-116 crystals with 3 different outside diameters. The latest is the one I made the retainer to fit. The latest Clark's crystal is the same diameter, so the retainer fits as well. The retainer needs to be pressed on, per gen. Other aftermarket crystals are not tested, and could crack when pressed. The inside diameter of the retainer is 30.226mm. The crystal should be shaved to fit, if needed. The retainer holds it all together, as the bezel fits the outside of the retainer and is held on with the spring. That allows for the set to be used on any crystal with the correct outside diameter. The bezel itself is made from brass, then a nickel plating, per gen. I made the plating light so that it can be made to look aged easier, and to whatever degree someone wants. It is shiny bright, chrome-like as shipped. Using #0000 steel wool with just a swipe around dulls it nicely. More would allow the brass to show through as little or as much as you want. Using a buffing wheel will take it down further, and make it look well worn. I wanted to provide maximum flexibility. It is made for the 38mm no crown guard case. In the attached pics, it is mounted on the Tiger V2 case. It also fits the 1655 cartel case that can be used to build a 6542 by grinding off the crown guards. The spring is stainless steel wire. Everything is a tight fit, so it can wear in. The bezel rotates fine, but a little oil makes it smoother. It is all made in the U.S.A. For members of this site, RWG Forum.net only, the set is $425.00 usd. For paying VIP and Platinum members on rwgforum.net (not reciprocating to admin or mods from other sites) the set will be $400.00 usd. So, if you're not a VIP here, become one and get a discount that saves you money on both! I match each set to fit, so please allow a day or two for shipping. All plus shipping, please PM me if interested.

Thank GOD Almighty that my tired old eyes can no longer read a Daytona! Saves me a lot of money!

Thank you. My picture taking skills are terrible. In all honesty, you should see this in person. Obviously, I am a GMT fan, but liked the 6204 Sub when I saw the pic of the 'Sub Aqua'. Since changing the hands to longer minute and more accurate hour, I just keep looking at it.

Nope. It gets worse. Rolex is infamous for not revealing, or not having, records of their vintage watches. They made changes from introduction through production, and made changes when serviced. The watches were more hand made than today, so they all have little imperfections making each unique. Add the aging and wear of 60 years and each is even more unique. And that helps when building a replica. There is even a debate of which Submariner was the first. The 6200 has the lowest number, but the 6204 was introduced to the public first. There was no apparent rhyme nor reason for model numbers. The first GMT was introduced at the same time with the 'bakelite' insert. But within a few years they found the lume could be radioactive, so they eliminated the bakelite, and when serviced swapped out the dial (lume) and insert for non-radio active ones. Later ones also had the small GMT 4th hand swapped out for the larger one. Building a quality vintage replica can range all the way to freddy333's all genuine (genuine JoeyB insert) white dial 6542. But there are a few cases that have the basic shape needed, and with a little talent you can build a very close replica. My first build was a 6542 based on the first known 6542 build that freddy333 did. RolexAddict introduced me to the vintage 1675, but when I came to this site freddy333 was in the midst of building the 6542. I was hooked. I had to have one. Since then replica cases have changed to use the gen style mount for crystal and bezel. So I'm in the middle of rebuilding my first with an updated case and some other improvements that have come along. I came to the forums years ago looking for a quality 16710 with a Swiss movement. The forums saved me from buying from a scam site for over $1000. That's all I wanted. Shortly after came the 116710. That was it, all I wanted, really. Then came RolexAddict. And freddy333. And RWG. The 16710 has been re-cased using gen style bezel/crystal mount. freddy333 posted a link to this site http://stefanomazzariol.blogspot.com/ Visit at your own risk. It's where I saw the 6204 'Sub Aqua' and had to have that! After I finish the 6542, again, I might re-case my 6204. It is great as is. I don't know why I do these things... ...but I know I can stop any time I like. 'Hello. My name is JoeyB, and I am a watchoholic...

I hope so! The 1655 cartel case with the crown guards ground down is acceptable. That's the one in my signature. It has the gen style crystal/bezel mount, so it will take any of the after market bezels. It is the easiest 6542 in my opinion. You order it with the movement you want, refinish/change the dial (I use the water-slide decal to refinish), add the red/black date wheel overlay. It all fits as it came from the factory, so less modifying is needed. To my eye the Tiger 2 case has a better shape. Less modding to the case, will take ETA 28xx or DG3804b with no additional modding, but it does need the larger diameter dial. I'm in the middle of this build as we speak, and had planned a write-up next week sometime, along with an announcement. I now have the coin edge bezel and retainer to compliment the insert, all to gen spec and all made in the U.S.A. I hope to be ready to supply them by the middle of next week, take pics, etc.

I believe that over 50+years the exposed part of the plate that is 'gilt' oxidizes. The white is 'normal' oxidation.

My 1675 was built using Gary Clark's crystal and bezel and insert. If fit together correctly leaving the friction ring off. The bezel turns as gen by slight downward press and turn. Gary is a great guy, honest and fair.

Yep. As I've said a few times before, the way to service a DG movement is to remove it from the case. Lay it on the workbench. Hit it with a 40oz hammer. Brush what is left into the trash can. And install a brand new movement for under $30usd.

That spring can travel at speeds breaking the sound barrier. I've heard it, but never found it afterward! I use a piece of Scotch tape to hold the u-shaped spring and be able to see through to install it in the slot. Line it up, slide it in off the tape. If you miss, it doesn't fly away.

There are quite a few threads on the 6538. The 'Search' function is your friend. Here is one, and there are links in th thread for others. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/156906-b/

Well done!

Well thank you! All this time I thought it was just me. I don't have your expertise so I never had a chance. I even tried to solder, weld, epoxy, chewing gum in replacement tubing with no luck at all. It still makes no sense to me why the rep companies will not make the lug holes the right size and use the right sized springbars and end links.

JMB, it looks great, and good to know about the end links. I've destroyed a few trying to open them up to make the spring bars fit. Thanks.

Yep, I've run into that before. With the Silix case, the glue in crystal set-up, the bezel seat AND the crystal mount 'walls' had to be flattened out. And the 'Tiger 2' case bezel is cut cone shaped for the metal insert. It is so small I couldn't get a tool on it to flatten it out. It was a real pain for me not having your skills. I can't tell for certain from the pictures, but I might be able to 'refinish' the ruined insert and make it usable.

freddy333 is the 'master', I just try to keep up.

The 6542 insert should be installed using either double-faced tape (like golf club grip tape) or, as freddy333 said in his first build, RTV silicone adhesive. I've used both, neither harms the painted backing. The tape will add some thickness, so if the bezel you are using isn't deep enough the insert might sit up too high. On my own watches all, lexan and metal, are installed using black RTV. Send me a pic, and maybe I can salvage the insert. freddy333, if you have new method please let us know.

Well done!

You need to know what movement you have. If it is a cheap rep then it likely has a Chinese movement. If it is a Chinese movement, the you'd be best advised to get a Chinese DG3804b. They are good movements now, and would be a direct replacement, dial hands, date wheel, movement ring, and all. I use the DG3804b often in builds, as does RolexAddict in most of his builds. Most suppliers have Chinese movements now. Otto Frei, Jules Borel, Rafflestime, are just a few. Should be around $25usd. All I have and use is a friction ball. Never failed yet. Other help or guidance? I'd make that green GMT hand red or all maybe all silver. Some acetone on a q-tip will remove the paint and not harm the plating. It really clashes with the blue to my eye.

Thank you all! Yes, they are soldered. I use a low temp solder paste for jewelry from Otto Frei. I recommend practicing on scrapable hands. My first attempts a few years back ended up in a flaming ball of mush.

Both are pieced together, the second hand from 2 other 'regular' hands. The hour hand was made using a rep Rolex 'maxi' hand pieced to a miscellaneous ETA sized 'base'. Both finished by very gently sanding using 1500 grit paper.

OK, here is the tracking number: I81U812

I take terrible pics, but the watch turned out so good I had to share. I replaced the hands on my 6204 to be as gen. The minute hand is 13mm from Helearou, and I made the hour hand longer to 9.5mm. Looking straight on both the minute hand and the second hand go right to the chapter ring (not past it.- bad angle in my pic). I removed the silver plating using 400 grit sandpaper, then smoothing using 1500 grit. All in one direction - not back and forth, that bends hands. Judging from the pictures of old Subs, I think the 'gilt' hands were actually brass. That makes sense for a diver's watch. So brass they are.

The minute hand for the early chapter ring Rolex GMT and Submariner measure 13mm from center hole to tip. That'd be the 6200, 6204, 6205, 6542, etc.

For those looking for the longer minute hand for the no crown, coin edge Rolex GMT 6542 and Submariner 6538, Helenarou has them in gold finish on their site. The minute hand measures 13mm from center of the pinion hole to the tip, versus the standard minute hand measuring 12mm. http://www.helenarou.com/6538-gold-bond39s--benz-watch-hand-super-luminova-for65383928242836.html They now have these in silver as well. Not on site yet, but email them. Mention you are a member of RWG. rouhelena@yahoo.com The ETA silver just get done! Hr center hole to tip 8 min center hole to tip 13 sec center hole to tip 13

Maybe it's a 'stealth' model? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Rolex-Service-Bakelite-6542-Bezel-Insert-Acrylic-Vintage-GMT-Part-1950s-/390876877936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b0213d470