marrickvilleboy

wow....very nice watch!

enjoy it

those tools are specifically designed for acrylic/plastic crystals - not mineral or sapphire. You're using the wrong thing.

For mineral and sapphire, you need a CRYSTAL PRESS. It looks like a clamp whereby it presses the crystal into place after you have aligned the crystal with the case.

Antomarty: the claw tool that you have is designed so that you can compress the plastic crystal, therefore allow you to place it into the older type cases that fit plastic crystals. Once you fit it into place, releasing the claw allows the plastic crystal to spring back into its original shape, thus holding itself into place in the case.

Hope thats clears it.

If you don

you might not even have to take it off to clean it. It might be the cheap AR getting funky if that watch has it on both sides. If it is the cheap AR, it should come off with soap and water. Just take off the caseback and remove the movement. Dry everything off thoroughly before reinstalling the movement. Clean environment is key, and don't handle the movement more than necessary, wear rubber gloves if you can.

Whatever you do, don't try to put the crystal back on with a freakin hockey puck!

why not? seems to have worked for Fliplockbuckle...hahahaha =)

Sorry If I mislead you as I did not know it could be modded to fit with the retaining ring

no need, different models have different specs. The one that you have (2892), I also have and yes, you can't fit the genuine bezel on. I had to take the genuine bezel insert off and fix it on the replica bezel for it to work. But as you may have noticed, the 2892 version has the 120 click mechanism anyway so very close to the genuine, just slightly different in size.

no need to get two different sets.

Get the H4, you should be fine. if its too high - its easy to trim down. Always go with the longer end as you can at least cut it down, whereas if it was too short...then...nothing you can do about it but to get longer set.

Ryaku:

If you are trying to fit the bezel onto the older model of 25318000 - By old, I mean the version with ETA2824 - not the one with the 2892 seagull movement, then the bezel will fit. You will need to ask Ofrei to send you the bezel spring retainer (forgot the technical term for this piece). Because the replica has a different mechanism as the genuine, you will need to glue down the bezel retainer onto the case and then you just need to snap the genuine bezel on and it will work perfectly - with its 120 clicks.

thanks mate.

hey guys..

I just realized that I need to put a 22mm rubber strap on my PO - getting tired of the SS bracelet.

I know SILIX provides the 22mm strap - a pretty good one in fact - but does anyone offer the same thing? or any members wanting to part with theirs?

thanks for the help!

not really... these Omega seamaster chronograph are on ebay quite frequently, selling for around 1400USD without box and papers and in good condition.

Not to put you off, but that was one expensive project - but it does look very very nice =)

Hehe, I see you have the gen, why do you need this? Although I take it as a complement that you do

This is a rough cost breakdown:

Indeed a very interesting find.

The old black SMP however had the Omega logo on the dial further down - which was a tell that it was fake. This dial seems to be perfect.

I'm always skeptical when see you watches that have the old factory stock photos - for all we know, he could have just dug those photos out. If I was interested like some of you folks, I would ask him to take a photo of the watch at a specific time and date, then we'll know for sure, if he makes any excuse to say he can't provide it - then...enough said.

Btw - TripleHD, you've spend some much time and effort on chasing down the blue dial Omega and I know you've purhased and had one modified, you could have just gotten a second hand one by now, I'm a little confused.........

Dude, Ceaser, no offense, but is there something wrong with you? First the VC and now the Rolex? I mean sure its your bloody money, you can really do whatever you like with it, but what ever happened to, ask the forum before you actually "PURCHASE," a "genuine" on ebay? Sure you can keep this up and hope to get your money back through disputes every time, however the longer you keep doing this the less likely you will get your money back at some point in time and then you'll be whining and complaining about it. And we would have said, told you so.

However, this is your choice really...

Just my 2 cents.

Regards,

VW

can't teach old dogs new tricks rings true....plus he has an air of arrogance with his replies, considering some of us just saved him quite a bit of money...frankly I would think twice about helping him next time

Why didn't the second one see it?

haha...thats because he said "2 men" assuming that usually 2 people would walk in together - side by side - so they both copped the bar =)

ahh i'm sorry. I get where you're coming from now.

I have spare 2824s, wanna trade? =p

I dont get it......the genuine PO has a slower beat anyway - you've essentially got a more closer to the original movement than the 2824s...Not sure what you're complaining about? I thought the whole point of this hobby was to get a replica as close to the genuine as possible without compromising on quality - the ETA 2842s are just as reliable as the 2824s.

hahaha you need a job bro...

but i do agree, the ebay thing does get on my nerve too....

WAITTTTT

Before you decide to buy it. Here's a few things to consider.

The bezel insert has been replaced - appears to be an aftermarket insert.

Also, the bracelet is aftermarket too. You can tell by the rounded push buttons and the lack of "825" markings on the endlink.

For a Quartz model, this price is a tad overpriced.

You can get 2nd hand Automatic versions for around 800 - 900, and I can tell you it'll keep its value much more than the battery version.

he could be a legit seller - he's pull down that listing and all of his current watches appear to be genuine.

WOW!

Good job Rob, wear that well Kruzer!

haha its genuine guys.

So the owner has some trouble seeing the date....decides to install a cyclops....no sweat.

many watchsmiths will try to rip you off for restoration. They see that its a name brand and they give you a quote that is 4 to 5 times the real restoration price.

Service of that watch would be around $150 - I think it may be the Omega 5XX movement series. The acrylic crystal, as long as there isn't any cracks, you can buff that clean to look new.

it is an UPO

i hope when you said "genuine" ....you actually meant genuine leather band because the watch isn't genuine.

well the rep SMP that you're talking about had the helium release valve dead on 10 o clock. This one is above the 10 o clock mark. Also this one has serials on the back, whilst the rep SMP that you are talking about does not.

two things

The closed factory SMP was the limited 007 model - meaning that the dial on this watch would have to had been replaced. Secondly, the serial number where the back of the watch is not the standard serial number that was on the replicas. (replica started with 8, this one starts with 6)

IMO, this is genuine...bezel and indices show nature aging as well

Unfortunately, you're a few years to late. The first batch of the 007 models were unbelievable. I think the models that josh/andrew/paul carry are identical. I think Silix may be a little different.

Here's the 'Original' to compare to:

good luck with the quest.