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Everything posted by alligoat
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All you need is the clasp assembly- so you buy the $20 bracelet and pop the pin on one end and unscrew the last link on the clasp end and put it on your old bracelet. Simple!
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Mine, too. Hopefully it's the PTS Resources DG2813 movement- my watchmaker serviced one of mine and it's been fine ever since.
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Like the bezel assembly on the Euromariner- I just figure the case tube is a rep copy. That means a gen crown will fit it, but the quality of the tube isn't that good- same as the bezel assembly. Like Stilty, mine broke when I tried to remove it, but I was able to heat up the case and with a rat tail file remove the the rest of the tube from the case. I tapped the hole and installed a new aftermarket case tube fairly easily- didn't have to countersink the hole like you have to do on the noobmariner.
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The one from Ruby looks to be a step down from Paul's. The bracelet is a solid mid link w/ the wrong #'s- 70216 and 455B ends are totally wrong. Movement is probably an eta copy- can't believe you'd get a real eta for $169. A T-39 probably won't fit. Otherwise, it looks OK- maybe it would be a good beater, cg's actually look fair.
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Rather than replace the whole insert, I'd definitely look at just getting the watchmaterial pearl for $10 + s&h. You can pop the old pearl, widen out the hole with an x-acto knife and glue in the new pearl and reglue the insert. While the insert is out, you can file down the back side so it sits lower in the bezel. I'm not really sure why you think you need to replace the bezel. Dealers typically don't sell parts, so it's always a challenge to track them down.
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Beginmariner has just arrived, pics and impressions
alligoat replied to Pakz's topic in The Rolex Area
http://www.jpc8118.com/rlss10009-black-beg...ing-p-2303.html I guess Josh hasn't updated his pics yet. The crown on the M serial doesn't appear to be as big as the original crown on the ealry noobs/beginmariners. As gplracer says, maybe the cg's are getting better. This could really be a great case with just a few mods- correct sized crown, trimmed cg's, and a few turns on the lathe so that the inside diameter of the bezel was just a bit larger so that the aftermarket inserts and gen inserts would snap in and it would be a killer watch. It's got the correct rehaut for the 16800, so lug holes would be great! A WM pearl is also a great improvement and cheap when you can buy it for $10+. -
Because BK and WM9 don't do LV's
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All I can say is it sure looks to be in excellent condition for a 70's watch. Unless it's straight from CN via Turkey. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ries%26_fvi%3D1
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would a ETA 2890-2 fit a daytona @ 9 dail & case?
alligoat replied to db1's topic in Watch Repair & Upgrade
Couple of things here, I've never heard of a 2890-2. Are you thinking of the 2894-2 which is a 2892-2 with the chrono module- tri-compax- came out in the 90's? Secondly, for the seconds at nine Daytona, why not just have the asian 7750 movement serviced- it runs a couple of hundred dollars and then you have a fairly reliable movement? Ziggy's the master of this, but other watchmakers can do it, too. -
Yet another Replica site suggestion
alligoat replied to atencorps's topic in Introduction/Rules/Support
Welcome aboard. You've found the right place. You can keep reading, and look for dealers that are featured on this site. You can also donate some money to this site and that will afford you access to the dealers section. The dealers here are on the up and up and not rip-offs. Keep reading, sooner or later you'll find what you're looking for. -
The plating makes no difference- some asian 21j's are better than others, but it has nothing to do with the plating or color of the parts.
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http://www.jpc8118.com/000rlgt01003-ssyg-a...and-p-5194.html here's a dealer from this site. Pay some money- join up here- and you'll have access to the dealers on this site. Oh, this one has the asian eta copy, for $100 more you can get the supposed swiss eta.
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Vintage Rolex - Otto and Fritz f**k up again!
alligoat replied to docblackrock's topic in The Rolex Area
I saw this watch a few weeks ago on ebay- so obviously it didn't sell. As I recall, the folks at VFR pretty much said no way! Too bad the papers are so blury. -
Looking for a reliable seller for a Milgauss 1019
alligoat replied to mcdj's topic in The Rolex Area
Andrew and Josh are OK as far as dealers go- fairly reliable, decent watches, fair pricing. They're still reps, so not w/o a few flaws. Canal St reps are worth $60- the case and dial may be OK, but the movement is probably low end Chinese. The dealers here sell the slightly better watches w/CN movts for $100-125. These have a better chance lasting more than a few months, possibly a few years or more. You get what you pay for. -
Looking for a reliable seller for a Milgauss 1019
alligoat replied to mcdj's topic in The Rolex Area
I can't help you much on the 1019, or the 1016. As for the 16800 rep, you'd have to build it yourself. On the right is my rep 16800 with a gen matte dial, on the left is my gen also w/ a matte dial. I bought the gen because I thought I'd never find a case to build the rep with. I'd had all the parts except the case for 18 months and had just about given up hope. After I bought the gen, I ran across the right case for the rep and was able to build it. You can build it, but no one makes a rep like this that you can buy. Some people here are building incredible watches- some at 1/10th of the cost of a gen, but you have to stick around and keep reading and learning. I built my rep 16800 for around $600, but the information I gleaned from this site and a few others to build it is "PRICELESS". -
'Swiss' dial means after tritium- luminova, before SL. Sure looks real to me. CG's are spot on. I'll take it either way!
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A razor blade or gyp-knife blade works. And as Iceberg says, go slowly and keep working your way around and around... Maybe as you remove the blade you could put a little wedge of some sort in the gap you've just created before going to the next spot. That way it won't go back down as you lift up in another area. You'll need a crystal press to get it back on.
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WOW! Those guys are spending some serious money on their watches! Makes me realize that that is precisely why I like this place. I'd much rather build a franken for 1/10th of the cost of a gen. As it is, I've already spent way too much on watches! Next up though is a nice carrying case. No more going to GTG's with 3-4 watches stuffed in a sack.
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The thirty minute tick separating the Swiss and Made caught my eye- I've never seen that on a gen.
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This qualifies as the "Perfect Sub Rep", IMHO. Unless you tell someone, no one is ever going to be able to tell it's a rep! This last batch of WM9/PT/Euros are great- sure they require some mods, but once the mods are done, you're there!
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Do I need a new stem to fit a Datejust crown to a Val. 72 movement?
alligoat replied to Martyd3's topic in The Rolex Area
The 24-602-0 crown will work (or the old 600, I believe), but the newer 603 crown takes the the smaller case tube- the 5mm one, if I'm not mistaken. Threads should be the same. But some of the old V72 movements used a different stem which might not fit the Rolex crown threads. As I recall, its the tap 10 size stem you need. -
Stevie, I did get your PM and I do agree that with five things wrong w/ your Euromariner, you should send it back to Chris. cht, I guess you should send yours back also. But realize that all Euromariners (which are really just MBW's) come with the Gelena Shiterand case back. It is a completely different watch from the noobmariner, different factory, etc. If the Gelena caseback upsets you, your best deal is to ask Chris for your money back. Gelena Shiterand is a trademark of the MBW watches. Since it upsets you, just tell Chris it was an honest mistake on your part and that you didn't realize it came with that caseback. Hopefully he will be understanding. Most of us around here have been looking at Gelena Shiterand for so long, it's no big deal. I think it's pretty funny myself. Obviously Chris has had a lapse in his quality control lately. I guess I was lucky, I got an early version of the V3 with the old crystal with two gaskets. I promptly swapped it out for a Clark's. I trimmed the crown guards, drilled the lugholes to the correct size and the only other thing I did was sand down the top of the tension ring so the bezel assembly and insert would snap into place w/o glue. I'm very happy with the watch. The noobmariner is a good watch, but the bezel assembly is smaller than the gen, or the Euro/WM9 which are close copies of the gen. That makes the whole watch slightly smaller than the gen. This new generation of watches is better, much better than the noob. But the noob is still a good option for people who don't want to spend $500.
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Stevie, let me apologize. I'm not trying to be hostile, I just think you and DrTuB are somewhat naieve. Your expectations of reps are too high. That's why alot of us around here mod our watches- we want a higher standard of correctness and realize we're not going to get it out of the box. A long time ago, one of the dealer always said, "A rep is only a rep." His point was, don't expect perfection, it isn't going to happen in a rep. Your Euro's aren't perfect, but you guys can make them better and these watches are a vast improvement over the noobmariner and other previous Subs. I'm very happy with my Euromariner, but I drilled the lugholes, installed a gen crown and aftermarket tube, trimmed the crown guards, ground down the tension ring so that the bezel assembly and gen insert would snap right on w/o glue and installed a more correct 93150 bracelet with 501B detachable end pieces. I like to put it next to my gen 16800 and compare the two- size is spot on- look and feel are great- the Euro and the WM9 are excellent subs IMO. Probably you and TuB should have gotten the WM9's-V2- they are probably a little better out of the box than the Euro's at this point in time. But as for me, I wanted those lugholes and I love em, even though I had to drill them to correct size. Hopefully you guys will be able to find some satisfaction in this hobby.
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I guess I forgot- you've been here a month! What does that make you- an expert I guess A nick on the bezel- why not fix it yourself for $2- but no, I guess send it back around the world to Chris in BKK. Bellyaching- are you guys trolls?
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Man, you guys are like a bunch of crybabies! A nick on your bezel, Gelena Shitiner... heck I can't even spell it. You guys want perfection for $300-500. Buy a GD genuine watch and quit you nit-picking. The Euromariner is an MBW/MBK case- they've always been marked like that- used to say original polex design- at least now they say Rolex between the lugs. You're not fooling anyone once they open the case so what's the big deal. Movements- no matter which movement you buy- ETA, 4813, 2813, it doesn't matter- they all may need a servicing, some sooner than later. When you buy a rep, that's the chance you take. It's not the dealers fault, they come from the factory like that. Get a watchsmith to service your movement if it's making funny sounds. And sweep second hand is really a misnomer- a real Rolex, an ETA and a DG4813 all sweep the same- I promise you- 28.8K. Can't fade the heat- buy a gen. The Euromariners are great watches, but they need some mods to make them kick-a$$. Trim the crown guards, drill the lugholes to correct size on the V3, better pearl in the bezel insert- better yet w/ a gen insert, maybe a Clark's crystal. But these watches are a far sight better than what we had even a year ago. You guys can learn alot around here- just stick around and keep reading. And while you're at it, contribute some money.