alligoat

Good answer gplracer! They're all good watches, just depends what suits your fancy.

Looks pretty good for 100 euros- around $160 these days. It's an eta or a fairly good looking copy movement- hard to tell these days. I like the rehaut, too. Trim the crown guards, maybe put a better bezel insert in with a better pearl, you could go to a gen crown and tube assembly, but what you have isn't bad. If it is a TW Best, which is what I'd call it, your friend has a good source. Enjoy!

I agree for three- the vintage lume doesn't have the overwhelming yellow. I like the off-white, gentle patina look, myself.

Wow! $2347.00 for a shaky case! I don't like the crown guards either- the pic from the top, they're too fat, side pic- no droop. Maybe it's an early case tube- 701. My 1680 from 1978 had the 24-702 crown and tube and Rolex used this assembly till around then or so- like 1980, maybe when the 16800 came around and they went to the 24-703 assembly. But that is not a 702 case tube- the 702 has the threads against the case and the top of the tube is smooth. BTW, wight, here's my matte dial 16800 on the left next to my noob- just had to do it!

As B-T would say, the rehaut thickness looks great. Of course, when it takes gen parts like a crystal and bezel insert, that tells you that the dimensions are right on. Is this a MBK dial or the Noob dial?

I wouldn't worry about the rotor making noise either. I have a gen Sinn 303 which has a well tuned Swiss 7750 and the rotor free spins like the dickens and you can definitely feel the weight of the rotor when you shake your wrist. It keeps time with in a few seconds a month, so you know there is nothing wrong with it!

If you sell 50 watches a day, say work 300 days per year, that's 15,000 watches per year. If you make $50 per watch, that's $750,000 per year. If you only make $25 per watch, it's still $375,000. Heck, maybe he only works 250 days per year- still not a bad business! I don't think Andrew gives a rats a$$ about you frankly!

I would think that an ETA 2836-2 with the sword adjustment on the balance is OLD. The 2836 dates from the 70's, then the 2836-1 came out for a short time and finally the 2836-2 came out in the early 1980's. ETA's made improvements over the years, but hasn't changed the model number. Originally, the 7750 had 17 jewels, but it's been improved to 25 jewels. Still a 7750.

Stem threads for a DJ crown and a Sub crown are the same, AFAIK. The bay has date discs from time to time- I think most of them are 'aftermarket' but if it fits, who cares.

I agree, no Sea-Dweller w/o a date. Just Subs!

Lately, when I've removed tubes from rep cases, like the noobmariner, I notice that they are glued in. So that leaves siliconing the caseback gasket and the tube and crown gaskets and then having it tested by a watchmaker. A watchmaker should be able to test your watch for you for $10-20, it's a 4-5 minute test. If you pass, which you should, you're good to go. I agree with thetwins- better pearl and filing the back of the bezel insert so it sits properly in the bezel are good mods. Don't spend a bunch of money- enjoy your watch, it's a beauty w/o a lot of mods!

A gen Rolex crown will fit on an ETA stem- same thread size. The SSD has a good copy of the Rolex crown and tube, so swapping out isn't really necessary unless you just have to do it. Rolex parts #'s are 24-703-0 for the crown and 24-7030-0 for the tube. I think you'd be better off trying to trim the crown guards a little and leaving the crown/tube assembly alone. When you change out the tube, you need to retap the hole and then you need a special tool to install the tube- about $70-80 just for the tools. Crown and tube could easily run $50-100.

One of my bracelet charts, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/exs...aceletchart.jpg, shows a 7205 bracelet on a 6536 with 58 end pieces, 7206 on a 5508 w/ 58 ends. It lists 7206 for 5512/5513 with 80 end pieces (early). Later 5512/3's would have the 9315 with 280 and 380 end pieces and finally the 93150 with 580 ends.

I'm another one who would love this case with the lugholes and no engraved crown on the crystal at 6 o'clock. Like this new one, also. Especially w/o the rehaut engraving.

what genuine ETA movement is a direct replacement to the Asian 2813? The answer is NONE. Although the widths are the same and heights are very close (to the 2836-2), and maybe even the same, hands sizes are completely different. Dial feet locations are different. And what about the datewheel- do you take the datewheel off of the 2813 and will it fit between the dial and the movement of say the 2836? Lots of work. My suggestion is, if you don't like the 2813, buy a watch with the ETA movt in it.

Actually the 24-703 assembly is kinda old- it's been around for more than 25 years- coming out on the 16800 in the early 80's and being retro-fitted to the earlier 5512, 5513, and 1680. There is actually a new 24-704 series assembly for 14060M, late model Daytonas and maybe the latest GMT II. I haven't seen it yet.

I guess it wouldn't be so bad if it was an MBW case, but the one way ratcheting bezel is wrong and it's probably a cheap CN case anyway!

You're confusing me with your terminology. When you refer to the noob, do you mean noobmariner? Or are you talking about neophytes- new members- purchasing watches with asian 21j movements? TTK's original Noobmariner has an asian 21j movt- but I don't refer to it as a DG2813. Josh's beginmariner has a DG2813, it was supposed to be 28800 bph, but I never confirmed it- gave the watch away. The DG4813 is supposed to be the 28800 bph version of the 2813. I've had good luck with the DG2813's- it has a WO symbol under the balance and comes from PTS Resources over in China. Not a bad quality movt, IMO. Certainly I like it better tham TTK's movt in his noobmariner. But if you're having QC issues with these movements, it is a problem. In the past, I've been lucky and got two of my asian movts repaired for $40 each. But you can buy them for less than $20- the old Chinese dilemna- what to do!

A BKMariner is a 16610- i.e. the most modern Submariner with the 92350 bracelet with SEL's- solid end links- built into the bracelet. You could spend $800-1000 buying a genuine 92350 bracelet and swap it out, but is it really worth it? The noobmariner bracelet that comes on the BKMariner is really pretty good. End pieces like the 501B, 580, and 593 go on the older 93150 bracelet and would be totally incorrect for the modern Sub with no holes in the lugs- Sorry.

Someone else used the 727 movement- maybe it was Girard Perregeux- heck, I can't even spell it, might have even had the microstella balance. But I'm with Freddy, it's possible, but.... probably unlikely. DW, Phong, the guys over in Saigon- Ho Chi Minh City, they're pretty good. And there are a lot of V72's out there- they've become a hot item- I've got four of them myself! But it is a damn good looking movement. Certainly better than some of the stuff I see on ebay purporting to be legitimate.

Yeh, JoJo, Nanuq was right- 6263- screw down pushers, black bezel insert, and 727 would be corrrect. I wasn't paying attention to the case as much as the movement which is still awfully nice for a rep- you'd spend $2500-3500 building that movement- correctly colored gears, microstella balance- that stuff just doesn't fall out of trees.

According to "Rolex Daytona, a legend is born", the correct movement for the 6241 is either the 722, or the 722-1. This would be 1969. You could probably buy the real watch in those days for $400, now days you can barely buy a bridge for that price to build one!

Movement looks pretty damn good to me- 727 under the balance, correct colored gears, correct engraving on the bridges, micro stella balance. The correct balance and gears are tough to come by. Phong sells the engraved bridges but he just about never gets the balance and gears right. I'd have to look at the Daytona book to comment on the dial, but I agree w/ dieselpowers comments- just doesn't seem up to Rolex quality. But a good case and movement could still be worth $15-20K- then you'd have to source a better dial- heck, it's only money!

My educated guess is no. You need the 24-602-0 crown to go with the 24-6020-0 case tube. The last 0 is for ss finish. 24-602 crowns should be readily available- just don't buy them from that turkey jewelerstools in Mesa, AZ- that guy hasn't a clue what he's sending you. I'm still thinking the correct case tube for the 24-600 crown is the 24-6010. Due to their age, both could be hard to find.

This line of mid-size Datejusts appears to be new- it says some of the product was added in June. Unlike older mid-size DJ's which were geared for young men and boys, this group appears to be geared to women. The bracelet is more feminine- not the old style oyster or jubilee. 33mm is one mm smaller than the Date model (34mm), but larger than the standard ladies DJ (around 26mm). The trend is toward larger watches and I would figure this is Rolex's answer for the women. A trip to an AD might be in order, or maybe you could find something online about it. The gold plated models look nice, but the stainless ones will hold up better, like this one: http://www.trustytime88.com/index.php?main...a3249be70aa27e3 The 2671 is a good movement, and I don't think you can go wrong with the price, if you're looking for something larger than the older ladies DJ's.