alligoat

I would disagree with B-T on this point and agree with Ziggyzumba's point of view, which is that eta movements in reps are surplus and aren't necessarily new, clean or properly oiled. But you take your chances. I've had to service a couple of them, but it's not a big deal. I've also had a couple of asian 21j's serviced- once again, dirty and not oiled correctly. Andrew has this same eta Noob LV w/o the servicing and WR work for about $100 less.

I believe I read recently on Timezone that the cost of a new 93150 oyster bracelet was $825 at a Rolex AD. Plus tax no doubt. And you'd have to probably have a gen watch for it to go on. Now a 93150 is the designation for a vintage Submariner oyster band used thru around 2000 on even the 16610 (501B end pieces). You can bet a new oyster band w/ solid end links, Rolisor clasp and polished mid-links would cost even more! 904L steel, of course.

I believe the current Rolex parts #'s are 24-602-0 for the 6mm crown and 24-6020-0 for the case tube. Like 2005 submariner said, you need to retap the hole when you remove the rep tube- clean it up so that you can thread the new case tube in there cleanly- you;'ll also need the proper tool for installing the case tube. The eta stem will thread into the Rolex crown. Ofrei sells an aftermarket 6mm case tube for around $6- new style, then all you'd have to do is find the Rolex crown. As Stilty says, you might be better off just sticking w/ the rep crown and case tube. If you're looking for WR, you might try some silicone grease on the o-ring seals and make sure everything is screwing down correctly. At that point you watch should be WR for simple stuff, dishwashing, lite swimming...

I don't think TTK's is a DG2813, at least mine wasn't as far as I could tell. I just recently had it repaired by my watchmaker after a year. I always look for the WO mark on the DG2813 under the balance wheel. I think of TTK's as a generic asian 21j movt, but I don't know which specific factory it comes from. Josh on the other hand has the DG2813 in his beginmariner- clearly marked with the WO logo from PTS Resources. IMO, the DG2813 is the best asian 21j movt- but like all of these rep movts, including the eta's, servicing might be required. So called "noobmariners" w/ an eta movt are sold by Paul, his "so called perfect sub" and by Andrew. River from time to time has the "noobmariner" with the asian eta 2836-2 copy movt. Although TTK doesn't like it, we generally refer to the noobmariner as a type of 16610 with a certain case. This case has about 1.8mm rehaut, the ubquitous serial # F520117, good dial, good bracelet and corrrect placement of the date and cyclops.

Howdy, TXTurbo. It's a little after 5PM here in most of Texas! I guess your local time got screwed up! Oh well. I'm headed to Uvalde this Thursday for a little hunting myself. Cheers

My experience with Frankenjusts is that the 2836-2 fits in the 16013, 16014 and 16030 cases- i.e. the early cases which took a 3035 Rolex movt. The 162xx series cases take the 2824-2. The reason is because of where the stem/crown lines up.

Carl, that is a nice looking vintage Sub, and I love those dark brown leather straps on a sub. As for Silix, you can't go wrong with Angel and Jay. They brought back the vintage subs by popular demand and did a great job. They just came out w/ the SSD, the Super Sea-Dweller, that the other dealers also have, great pricing. They can get you whatever you want, so what are you waiting for klocklind1?

Well, the watch is good. I would assume that it's a v72B which is the most common. The other pics were no help. The seller is fine, I wouldn't hesitate to buy from him. Enicar Sherpas are collected on their own merits, so the price could end up in the $900-1100 range- even with the pushers needing repair- which is fairly simple.

Fantastic report, themuck. I find the rust spots on the bezel interesting. Did this occur on the gen SD's also? The SSD would be 316L stainless, and the gens would be 904L. Nevertheless, I'm certainly impressed by the SSD's ability to stand up to these tests.

Keep reading, there was a post by By-tor this week about the GMT from the noob factory. If you could get your hands on one of those, INSTANT HOG HEAVEN. Good luck.

You need to look under the balance wheel where it should be stamped. Yes it is a v72 or variant thereof. And the v23 is basically the same watch, but a bi-compax (two sub-dials) as opposed to the v72 which is tri-compax. Maybe you could get a shot form the other end of the movement, looking under the balance wheel. Of course, you know that the R symbol means Valjoux, right?

I'm not impressed with the crown guards, the sellers low sales and couple of negative feedbacks are a cause for concern, terms and conditions- bank wire or postal money order- are lopsided in the sellers favor, lack of movement pics, and decent bracelet pics. there are a lot of negatives. You'd probably be lucky to get a decent franken, which is worth $2-3000. $2000 w/ an MBW case, $3000 w/ a jewelry and watch type case w/ working HE valve. As the saying goes, "buy the seller", is a hard sell in this case.

A $50 rep isn't worth it in my mind, unless you're looking for cheap parts! The movement may last a week, or six months, but probably not much longer.

Well, Artist, you know what they say, "A good watchsmith, priceless." I've found if you're going to enjoy this hobby, you got to have a good watchsmith. Luckily, I have two of them! And Centurion, I think you'd be best off having a watchsmith look at your seconds hand issue. I don't think it'll be an expensive fix, but I'm afraid if you try to do it yourself, you'll be sorry. Besides, if you need a part or two, it shouldn't be a big deal for a watchsmith.

Sounds like a job for a watchmaker- like the pinion which turns the seconds hand ain't doing it's job possibly. And maybe he could reglue the 12 o'clock marker to the dial while he has it apart! BTW, if it's an asian 21j movt, you might be SOL- hard to find parts.

I wholeheartedly concur w/ freddy, the Rolex Daytona book is a MUST HAVE if you're going to pursue building a vintage Daytona. It is an incredible source of information- stuff that's hard to find anywhere else.

Very nice. Glad to hear it passed the bathtub test! Putting a SD on a dive strap is like camoflage, people hardly notices that you're wearing a Rolex!

It's always nice when you run across a shyster, you report them and ebay pulls their auction. But some of them still get by, like this one from last week w/ and MBW bezel insert, inaccurate case number.... Wish ebay links would work: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=007 but it's item #170164103954 and it went for $8,000.00. Ouch, someone took a hit!

Here's the Chuck Maddox blog: http://chuckmaddoxwatch.blogspot.com/2005/...discussion.html It states the 726 is an improved v72...

I'd agree w/ you avitt, and certainly kevin's auto 7750 DW fits in there also. And on the high end of the spectrum is Jewelry and Watch with his all out expensive vintage Daytonas- w/Rolex plates, bridges, etc. You can spend a ton of money and get awfully close to nirvana if you are so inclined.

My watch has a superdome while the TZ watch has a hi-rise flat-top, so there is a slight difference in the way the images appear around the perimeter of the dials.

I guess there's a heirarchy of Daytona 6263's so to speak: 1. A new cartel 6263 w/ Lemania movt, 37mm case, fixed 6 subdial, like Josh's at $238 plus s&h if necessary (or a 40mm asian V7750 for about the same price) 2. A Dw rep v23 (really a MM) w/ assymetrical pushers, fixed 6 subdial, around $150 more 3. The yet to be released asian 7750/7760 DW, three working subdials, assymetrical pushers, manual wind. Around $800 4. The DW v72 kit, add your own V72, some gen parts, etc, work, work work. Around $1500-2500. All are subject to needing a service- add $200-300 depending on movt type. The Lemania (is it a Seagull ST18, or 19) might be the least prone to prompt servicing, but who can say.

Is the V726 a GMT movement? Shoot, I can't remember all of the V72 variations. Chuck Maddox has a blog on the Valjoux variants which might be helpful. Of course, plan B is measure it and compare it to the V72, but as freddy says, these are all basically the same movement. Good luck.

Let me chime in here on one thing. DW's V23 watch is more likely a mystery movement, not a true V23. Avitt and Ziggy were discussing it the other day in a post- no one really knows what the movement is. However, similar to the v72 kit, the so-called v23 watch can take a v23 movement fairly readily, should you find one. A v23 can maybe still be found for $400-600. V72's are scarce at $650 and up and can easily run around $1000- esp. after servicing. And servicing the MM, as it is called, can be hit or miss. If successful, you've got a good little watch. If not, you got a pile of parts. But of course, the watch has the assymetrical pushers and a frozen subdial at 6 o'clock- the MM is bi-compax of course, as is the V23. This makes it nicer than the Lemania-type watches from the other guys. But I noticed Josh had the Lemania-type watch in a 37mm case now with a frozen 6 o'clock subdial- but still symmetrical pushers.

I'm headed to TZ to check out that GW 1665- it looks too MBW to me! The OCD's there have probably already yanked it!