alligoat

Cancelled or relisted? It's back up now, ends on xmas day.

I can't tell you anything about the diamond hour markers, but the TT is very good on the ladies Datejust. My wife liked her TT DJ w/ the white dial so much that she went out and bought a gen on ebay. When you compare the two watches together, the gold is basically the same. There is a slight variation on the case sizes, so slight that it's only noticeable on a side by side comparison. Date mag on the rep is slightly larger. Her rep came from Paul. I don't think you can go wrong buying a Ladies DJ rep- sure the diamonds are CZ's, but who goes around w/ a loupe in their pocket. Get the eta movement. And if anyone asks her about it, she can just say, "Oh, my husband got me this, isn't it pretty?"

Here's an article which points out the gap between the words Superlative Chronometer and Officially Certified lining up: http://www.bjsonline.com/watches/articles/0016.shtml Based on this, that would mean that the dial is a fake. I think this was what harley was trying to point out.

Just take a pair of tin snips and shorten it! HA, just kidding, but isn't it ironic! All this time I've read one of the big tells on a rep is the seconds hand being too short- this is the first case of one being too long.

Yep, that's the same watch that I got from Paul. I call it the 1963 model 5513. This watch came out (as a gen) in the early 60's at the time they were starting to use tritium- hence the T<25 was added to both sides of the dial at the bottom. The white reference line below Submariner was also added to a batch of existing dials which had gold printing. You can try buying the $10 illumes dots from www.ofrei.com and change out the pearl fairly easily. Shaping the crown guards also helps the looks. They're great beaters, as you say. I especially like mine since it's WR- great for wade fishing, jet skiing and swimming. Nice pic BTW.

1. There are posts around here telling how to lube up a bracelet so it won't feel so flimsy, but gen sub bracelets are hollow mid-link and pretty light also. A gen TT will be heavier due to the gold in the mid links. 2. Polished edges- can't say what Rolex is doing on the latest subs, but it's not a big deal IMO 3. Cyclops can be off-center because they are simply glued to the crystal- like someone said- Chinese quality control. 4. Bezel click- still one of the big tells- maybe WM9's latest and greatest sub will solve this problem with a more faithful copy of the gen's bezel assembly. 5. Date change- like suchecracks says, it's probably just a case of the hands being positioned incorrectly- watchmaker can reset in 5 minutes- hopefully it is an eta inside. Every watch that I've ordered w/ an eta inside has indeed had one- but w/ drop shipping, mix-ups are possible.

I've never seen a sleeve extending down from the center link- obviously it slides back up into the centerlink.

www.ofrei.com lists the T-19 as the correct crystal for the 5512, 5513, 6538A, 6540, 7016, 7928, 9401, and 94010. After the 6538A, I hae no idea what those other watches are!

Here's Silix's- same as Paul's- yucky print http://www.silix-prime.com/product.asp?id=1645 Too bad it's so hard to find decent 5513 dials these days without spending a small fortune!

The Explorer (3-6-9) dial 5513 was available from the 60's into the 70's, first with the gold printing and then with the white printing. They changed from gold to white say around '67. Paul and a few other dealers carry this watch (maybe Silix): http://www.pam111.com/product_info.php?cPa...roducts_id=1199 The watch is fine, but the gold print on the dial is more of a yellow/green. The lume is a light yellow and isn't bad IMO. I trimmed my crown guards, changed out the pearl with a supposedly NOS acrylic pearl- popped right in, and siliconed the o-rings- WR tested to 4ATM which is all my watchmaker could do. It's a great beater for under $200. I've thought about a gold wash to make the printing look more gold, or getting a www.jewelryandwatch.com 3-6-9 dial for $265. Interestingly, this case is about 37.5mm and the dial is 26.5mm or thereabouts, so a gen or aftermarket 5513/5512 dial should fit OK. The 2836 movement is fine, but high beat (28,800) and has a stop for the date set, whereas a 1520/30 would have been the correct Rolex movement (19,800 bph). Some of the other vintage Rolexes from Paul, Silix, etc. also have the Explorer dials- so called 6536's, 6538's, 5508's. Some have the white printng which looks better IMO. Haven't tried mixing and matching, but I think the dials on the Silix vintages might be in the 28mm or 29mm range, which would probably be too big for the 5513 case from Paul.

Closed 6 on 26 is correct- just another Rolex idiosyncrasy. But this in not an OEM date disc based on the description, right?

If we can build 16200 series Frankenjusts with eta 2824-2's and it fits in a case for a 3135, why can't the rep makers use a 2824-2 and get the correct crown position like on this YM case, or for that matter the 16610 or the SSD? Why do they keep going to the 2892-2 which is a great movement, but more expensive. A YM with proper crown position and 2824-2 wouldn't have to cost an arm and a leg!

Thanks, Chief. Now I better get to ordering.

I ran across this German made W2- a knock-off of an IWC with a Swiss 7750: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...=tab%3DWatching Hope my ebay link works, if not it's item #330194861057.

Ebay worked for me: Case from roling- both were excellent, I didn't use the dials because they weren't what I wanted hands from Clark's Watch Supply- nostalgia 2000 on ebay date wheel from cubic-works.com in Hong Kong crowns from ebay- like a 24-602-1 - search 'rolex crown' you can't beat it!

I'd seen the gold Daytona, but the big flaw on that watch is the pointer on the balance bridge- first clue that it's not a real Rolex movement w/ the microstella balance. but as avitt says- the other isn't a genuine Rolex movement- these are frankens, but even they have a certain value in the marketplace. There was a gold Daytona similar to the one above that went for around $16K 4-6 months ago- ridiculous, but that's the market- people are buying stuff w/ no real knowledge- more money than brains!

Yes, they have a website. but I don't know what it is- someone brought it up this week, but I can't remember. You might also look at jewelryoutlet990- the guy down here in beautiful Sugar Land, Texas- Faisal Ali, he has all sorts of aftermarket parts, but don't expect too much. BK likes his $10 inserts- puts the watchmaterial pearl in them- thinks they're pretty good. W/ a decent pearl, 99.9% of the people will never know it's a rep! We're all somewhat anal about this stuff!

Glossy is correct, and Raymond Lee inserts are OK as aftermarket inserts go- decent pearl, look fine. You might check Helfands, they also have aftermarket inserts- maybe the same as Raymond Lee. BK, the sub cannibal, likes the pearls in the www.watchmaterial.com inserts. The pearl is the biggest feature on these aftermarket inserts. Stay away from the "zit" pearls or the domed pearls on cheap inserts- they're a dead giveaway.

I think Frankenjusts are a great deal and I've built two of them. This is a 16014 ss case w/ the WG fluted bezel and ss oyster band. 2836-2 movement, datewheel from cubic-works in Hong Kong, case from roling on ebay and the dial came from astorlive. My watchmaker put it together for me for $50 with me supplying all of the parts (except the plastic ring spacer). I spent something like a little over $500. The secoond one is a 16013 TT with the silver dial with gold stick markers, gold hands (Tudor from Clark's Watch Supply), gold crown and TT jubilee band. LOL, I had to get the 2836-2 movement serviced on this one- it was filthy. Around $575 total. Sorry, no pics.

I can think of only one drawback to a beautiful gen like that. You can't call (make) it a beater! But then again, that's what you have your rep for. Congratulations.

OK, thanks. I knew the real SD takes a diffferent size insert from the 16610/16800 Sub, but you never know with the reps. Appreciate it.

Just curious, Omega, which igen insert did you use? The 315-16600-1 for a SD, or the 315-16800-1 for the submariner? Thanks

Last time I dropped my noobmariner in the parking lot, the bezel insert popped right out. And luckily it didn't booger up my watch- just reglued the insert w/ epoxy. But short of dropping your watch, and w/o removing the whole bezel, you are stuck w/ trying to get a knife in there and popping the insert out. Use tape and be careful. Maybe pry from the inside against the crystal, but go slowly and be careful. A www.watchmaterial.com pearl and a wholesaleoutlet990 insert from ebay would make a good replacement. If you get the original insert out in good shape, then you'd only need the watchmaterial pearl to make it look better.

LOL, I was thinking that the SSD was the watch on the left in the second picture. Somewhat better pearl, the newer more triangular 4 on the bezel insert. Taller crown on the dial. Can you see a lug hole on the lower left lug on the watch on the right?

The only difference between 076 and 054 is that 076 has the AR coating (anti-reflective) on the crystal. Both are asian 7750- which is the automatic movement with the working subdials. The outer part is the bezel (or bezel insert when referring to the black plastic part specifically- the metal holding it in place is the bezel.)