alligoat

Bummer Lonnie, you didn't get Andrew's noobmariner w/ the eta movt. ROLSUB0001. Price is now up to $218 from $188. http://www.trustytime88.com/index.php?main...products_id=256

As far as I can tell. Same case, dial, bracelet. The only question is, will the asian ETA copy accept genuine ETA parts when servicing?

I'm with jdavis on this one. I bought Paul's DRSD a couple of years ago, which is similar to Andrew's, I believe. It's a smaller case, 38mm, which is actually correct for the 5513/1665/1680 model watches, thin bezel, but workable HE valve- obviously copied after the original Rolex valve- MBW's have a fake valve. Paul's has a domed crystal like Andrew's, and a hollow link bracelet (MBW doesn't have a hollow mid-link bracelet). The only thing I'm not keen on is the yellow markers- too yellow for me. Since then, I've trimmed the cg's, put a watcheandparts pearl in the insert- snapped right in there- and drilled the lug holes. It's a great beater. I have a WM 1680 and I put on a genuine T-127, a vintage 1978 bezel insert w/ acrylic pearl from my gen 1680 (that's another story), trimmed cg's and the solid mid-link bracelet. It's still a rep. Now my gen 1680 (white dial) has a new bezel insert (gen), a silver date wheel, a 24-703 crown and tube assembly (the original 702 crown stripped), and a 93150 bracelet (hollow mid-links) and the correct 580 end pieces. And I've spent a goodly amount on it. My point is, we all have to make financial decisions and like alot of other people, I sometimes look for value in products which aren't necessarily the most expensive. That's why I have quite a few noobs- great beaters, and I do beat my watches. That's why I don't wear the gens when I'm in that mood! Or at least try not to.

Well, I'm in Texas and I've only had one incident occur and I don't think it was customs, but I don't know. I ordered three watches from dealer x and only one showed up in the package. I emailed him about it and he said that he'd shipped all three watches in the same package. Obvoiously someone had helped themselves to two of the watches. But dealer x was very good about it and re-shipped the two watches and I got them a few weeks later. Now days, I order one watch at a time and haven't had any problems. I've ordered since then from dealer x a number of times w/ nary a problem. River is the only one who wouldn't ship to Texas, so I had it sent to my sister- she's a Yankee, and she sent it to me a few days later. It looks like most of my rep packages come thru SFSO- San Francisco??

Guys, trust me, these are essentially the same watch. Yes, the asian 21j movements are different, pearls may vary, but the case, dial and bracelet are the same. Buy one of each and see for yourself. I've bought four of them!

There's no doubt that the date mag on a gen 1680 or a WM/MBW 1680 is larger, just like mojo says. And if you compare it to a 16610 gen, the 16610 mag is smaller. Once again, the crystal is closer to the date window. Date mag on noobs and begins is pretty close to gens IMO. Not worth worrying about.

The only difference between the noobmariner and the beginmariner is the asian 21j movement inside. . The case, dial and bracelet are the same. Just check the ubiquitous serial number, F520117, it's on all of these watches- even the TT models! There are small variations like the thick date font on some of the begins, small pearls from time to time and variations on the crown guards, but cg's are a far sight better than they were a couple of years ago and still improving from what I've seen recently.

If Narikaa's sub is the same as TTK's, then it just gets down to a question of which asian movement do you like best, since the cases on these watches are all the same. I personally like River's noob w/ the eta copy movt over josh's dg2813 or TTK's silver colored asian 21j movt. I've owned all three (they make great gifts). Of course, I also have Paul's so called perfect w/ the "swiss" eta, it's a noobmariner, too. But any of these movements can crap out on you at any time- I've had a "dirty" eta go kaput in a month, but nothing a servicing can't fix. Asian 21j's might be a little more prone to breakdown, after a year I got TTK's noob back and had to get it serviced/repaired for $40. Now it's ready for the next nephew to test. We've seen a few date font issues w/ the beginmariner (too thick font), Narikaa is in the UK, so is customs to the USA an issue? In the end, you just have to pick a dealer and go with it.

You're fine, the insert for the 16800 fits the 16610, in fact, it's the same part for both models- 315-16800. Good luck.

IMO, the only drawback to the TTK DRSD is the movement, but w/ luck it could last a year or two. And maybe you could get it serviced and it would keep on ticking. I just had my original noobmariner serviced and it's doing fine again. That being said, my preference is still for the eta movement. I bought this DRSD from Paul two years ago back when it was $139. Filed down the crown guards, put in a better pearl, and greased the o-rings. Amazingly, it has a functioning HE valve- just like the original Rolex design. Unfortunately, it's now $189. http://www.pam111.com/product_info.php?cPa...;products_id=44 Like TTK's entry watch, I noticed this new offering from Paul- the DRSD on a Nato strap w/ the asian 2813 movement. It has a flatter crystal than the eta DRSD and the eta DRSD has a nice bracelet- hollow mid-links, but hey, a budget is a budget and this hobby can get expensive. http://www.pam111.com/product_info.php?cPa...roducts_id=1823

OK, it's coming back to me... Anyway, the rep crown threads and the gen crown threads are completely different, so a rep crown will never screw down on a gen tube or vice versa. Use a gen crown and you have to change out the case tube, to either a Rolex case tube or an aftermarket case tube that'll fit the Rolex crown. That's why I said maybe a thinner rep crown might be a possibility, so you didn't have to change out the case tube, which can be a bear to do sometimes- I think they've started glueing them in there lately! I had hell getting a rep tube out of a TW Best last night- it would not turn and I finally had to take a hacksaw and saw a groove across the top so I could stick a flat blade screwdriver in there and turn it. It had glue all over the threads! As much as I like the noobmariner, I'm reaching the conclusion that's it's not worth spending a whole lot of money on them. I'm almost to the point where it's tape the case tube and bezel, file the cg's a little, grease the o-rings and put it back together and go swimming! If a thinner rep crown would fit, I'd do it and be done. They are great beaters and if they're WR, it's perfect.

Cool that you were able to get the crown to tighten up by, I guess screwing the stem into the crown a little more. I just put an aftermarket case tube and a gen crown on my $99 River noob w/ eta copy movt. It went ok, but first you have to tap the hole, then you have to countersink it w/ a larger drill bit so that the case tube will seat properly. Unfortunately, the countersinking cuts into the backside of the case maybe a mm or so. The rep case is obviously not as thick as a gen, or the gen crown position is higher on the gen case and that prevents this from happening on the gen. The assembly still works ok, but just doesn't look that good from the backside. I put a watchmaterial pearl in the bezel insert, but it wasn't that easy and then I compared it to the pearl in my Paul's eta noob and really can't tell the difference. I'm certainly not going to attempt to put a gen insert on either one of these noob watches- it's not worth it IMO. I'm wondering about getting a thinner rep crown and using it in lieu of the thick noob crown on my Paul's noob. Then you wouldn't have to do anything w/ the case tube. And after I finished putting a gen crown on the River noob, I wasn't all that happy w/ the results- it's not much smaller than the noob crown in the first place. BTW, I did straighten up the cg's on the River noob in the process, but yours are pretty good out of the box.

The 295 is actually the width of the crystal, 29.5mm. The C is cyclops, don't know what the C2 denotes. Most rep crystals are larger than the gen Rolex crystal, maybe 30.5mm, so you would need to check your MBW crystal before you order a 295-C or you'll be stuck w/ a part that won't fit.

I'm with andrew on this one, loose on the metal bracelets. It will slide over that wrist bone, but I like to keep it above the bone. I keep a strap a little tighter, but you can adjust it if you need to.

A couple of years ago before I found these rep sites, I used ioffer to buy a couple of reps. Basically, I paid too much, but at least I got a couple of watches. You should upgrade to a VIP membership here and that will give you access to the dealers here and you will be much happier.

I wouldn't worry about the date on that watch, the whole problem is the dial, and yes, the hands don't even come close to matching the lume on the dial- maybe they were replaced, but that detracts from the value, also. A 6 million serial # is very, very questionably late for a true red sub. You hear the old story about red subs being sold in other parts of the world until almost 1980, which is what this watch dates to... but the white dials came out in the early 70's and my 5.2million gen from 1978 has the white dial. I'd question any red sub w/ a SN that dates it much past '74-5, w/o some damn good provenance. And Genevanetusa sells Rolex watches with the aftermarket dials- 16610's w/ various dials- the old disclaimer- Rolex warranty no longer applies. They refurbish these watches and sell them on ebay day in and day out. I'd definitely stay away from this one.

I'm with bk on this, I can get by the bad pearl, and the open 6 on 26 is consistent w/ the 3035 movt, but the fat hand and maxi-dial really ruin what could be a great watch.

MBW/TW cases have deeper rehaut and the crystals sit higher above the bezel/insert assembly. Say 1.8mm rehaut for the noob, 2.0mm for the gen and slightly greater for the mbw/tw case- 2.1mm or 2.2mm- whichever it is. MBW/TW bezel is easier to remove and therefore easier to install a gen insert. Of course, putting a gen insert on a noob and a gen crown and tube would still make a very nice watch. BKLM shows how to remove the noob bezel on his GMT tutorial in this section- excellent info.

Stick around, from time to time there's talk about Datejusts. They're not as popular as subs, but I learned how to build two Frankenjusts using mostly gen parts here and the Datejust reps that the dealers have are very good and almost impossible to call out when on your wrist. Here's a pic of a 16014 Frankenjust- faded silver dial, gen case, crown and a 2836 movement.

The 2846 is a 21600 bph movt. It would be best in a vintage MBW, and would not be as correct in a 16610 MBW. However with the shortage of eta movements, MBW may be putting whatever they can get their hands on in their watches. And don't forget that most of the 21j asian movts are also 21600 bph. It's still a good movement, just not as well suited for the 16610 replica. Of course, the gen 16610 w/ the 3135 movt beats at 28800, just like the 2836.

That link is an info only link, I think it came from avitt a few months ago. Here's the other one which was posted on TZ a while back: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/exs...aceletchart.jpg Between the two, you can get pretty close, but there are mistakes on each list and omissions

According to my two charts on Rolex bracelets, a 1665 would have either a 9315 (early) with maybe 285 end pieces, or later would be the 93150 with 580 end pieces and then 585 end pieces. Being a GW, which is the latest of the 1665 models, the 93150 w/ 585 endpieces would be the cats meow, so to speak. My DRSD from Paul has the 93150 hollow mid link bracelet w/ the 580 end pieces. Not bad for a rep bracelet. Like you say, gen will run $400-700. Here's one of the links: http://www.14270.com/spec-rolex.htm As is always the case w/ vintage Rolex, there are always exceptions to the rules and no telling what an AD might do.

Great job bk. Interesting how the factory uses the noob serial number. Thank goodness they use the correct modlel #. BTW, what you call a rat tail file, I call an ease-out. Like for backing out broke screws, etc. But it works just the same, if fact it might be better than jamming a file in there- if you want to reuse the case tube. Excellent write up and pics.

No, I was talking about the serial number and model number etched on the ends of the case, between the lugs. I believe Rolex still engraves those the old fashioned way. Now that you mention it, I do see the crown etching at 6 o'clock on the crystal, but like you say, I doubt anyone would notice it unless they were inspecting the watch very closely.

And the price is too good to be true.