alligoat

Completely different cases, Tudor has an ETA movement, Rolex has a Rolex movement. They are not interchangeable. Similar to? Either a 16800 or a 16610, but even 16800 cases and 16610 cases are not the same- the 16800 has a 3035 movt, and the 16610 has the 3135 movt. 79190 has an ETA movt, 2824-2, I believe.

OK, let's say it was built in 1986, making it a 16800 model. 1. Get rid of the hologram sticker on the back, it's totally bogus 2. Trim the crown guards 3. Put a bigger pearl in there, like the one from www.watchmaterial.com, PN 315-16800-1 4. Change out the bracelet to the correct 93150 with the hollow end links, #593 end pieces are correct for the 16800, 501B for the early 16610's. SEL's didn't come around till after 2000, I believe. 5. Drill out the lug holes and put in gen spring bars. Rehaut on the 16800 was shallower than the 16610 due to the movement being the 3035. So this CN case isn't that bad. The date wheel is probably the modern one, but it's only a rep, so what the heck! I'm assuming a Comex 16800/16610 did not have an HEV, that would have been on the Comex SD's. At that point you'd have a pretty decent rep IMO, and for not a whole lot of extra money- if you do tythe mods yourself

Specialized watch tools don't come cheaply. Cableguys tap is about the best deal I've seen costwise. I just bit the bullet and went to julesborel- the tap for 24-600 series and 24-7030 tubes (PN- STK300) is $35.00 The new style case tube wrench- PN- STK1060 is also $35.00. It's slightly better than ofrei's where they sell the stuff in pairs for $69 and $49. http://www.ofrei.com/page433.html

Your thinking on the Rolex bridge sounds pretty good to me. Can't wait to see when you get the hands on there. Once you close the case, who's going to know if you have a Rolex bridge on there or not- it's a 6239 w/ a V72, who cares. We're not out to deceive anyone, just build some nice watches.

Sure doesn't look like a pair of Sub cg's! I'd take the file to them- you could have a very nice looking Explorer II. And vintage to boot- time for a case polish.

I thought I'd throw this into the mix, a Heuer Carrera 1964 Re-Edition. The original 1964 Heuer Carrera had a V72, but this watch has the same as the Omega cal. 321- is it the Lemania 1873?? I forget! But it sure is a nice chrono and I got a great deal on it, just cruising ebay. Sometimes you just got to spring for a gen.

All I'm getting is a red "x" in the box, no picture.

BUMP, or in this case BUYP- Just thought I'd check with you Freddy and see how things are going w/ your 6239 project. I have heard that fitting the Rolex chrono bridge can be a bear- like you say, you have to transfer the jewels over and then pray that you get lucky and everything lines up OK and functions correctly- something I'd definitely leave to the pros! Have you made any progress in the last week?

And here's Michael Young's, he actually has three, but this is w/ the silver triangle and white pearl at 12: http://www.classicwatchparts.com/catpart/c...?products_id=83

The bezel and insert that Hacko has on that watch looks like the 5513 assembly. Is it correct, I don't know w/o looking at a reference book, but I doubt it. But finding a correct bezel and insert would be tough- maybe go to Michael Young in Hong Kong for an aftermarket replacement. Whether or not an RSC would have the correct assembly, you'd have to check every RSC all over the world. It's a 50 year old watch, and Rolex isn't in the market of servicing antiques- they prefer to sell new watches. They've almost stopped servicing the 1500 series of movements- which this watch has (1530).

The 3-6-9 Submariner tested to 4 atm and it's been swimming and wade fishing over my head. The William Marshall has been down to 90 feet and is OK. The bezel did get kinda crudded up w/ salt water though- may try some WD-40 on it to loosen things up.

TW Best from River $249 ETA so called Perfect (Paul's Noob) 169 Gen crown and tube-say 75 gen bezel insert- $75-100 watchmaker to install crown and tube $50 Say $650 total Oops, don't forget to shape the cg's You'd have a spare watch to boot when you're done- a beater so to speak. You could also do a bk and use a watchmaterial.com pearl and a jewelryoutlet insert for around $50- close to a gen in appearance.

Maybe you try a generic T-39 cheapo from ofrei or julesborel, since you are definitely in the experimental phase- see if it works, before you spring for the Clark's Superdome or a gen. Or Cousins if you're in the EU.

I also ordered a NATO from watchbandgirl and was very pleased with the service, price and I got the new color, navy and grey. This week I noticed she has the black/red NATO in 20mm and I'm thinking about ordering 6 bands- the 6th one is free, for $80- including free shipping- that brings the cost down to $13.33 each. I ran across her on TZ.

You don't say if your watch is an MBW. If it is, a T-39 will fit such as this aftermarket crystal from Clarks: http://cgi.ebay.com/To-Fit-Rolex-Crystal-R...1QQcmdZViewItem For a genuine T-39, you'd have to look around on ebay and expect to pay more money, if you can find one. If your watch is not an MBW, I don't know what will fit.

No reply to my english email yet!

I was looking at an Invicta 8926 and it has the Miyota 8215 and Miyota is on the rotor. This is definitely the asian cheapie.

It's OK. You got to start somewhere and it's not a bad place to start. I actually use the companion guide the most. You can pick up just as much info here, on ebay and on TZ. The problem is, you don't always know what is right- no one is right 100% of the time.

Oops. I just noticed that even though the Silix description calls the Daytona a seconds at 9, the pic is of a seconds at 6 model. You'd have to check w/ Jay on this. These seconds at 9 won't be around much longer, which is unfortunate, because the seconds at 6 are just a piece of junk IMO.

Another option would be to look for the older 16520 series of Daytonas which had the running seconds at 9. Although these aren't perfect either, they are much more dependable. This one from Paul is still avaiable w/ a Swiss 7750: http://www.pam111.com/product_info.php?cPa...products_id=625 Silix has this one with the asian 7750: http://www.silix-prime.com/product.asp?id=1369 These watches are a better value for the long haul, and the Silix asian 7750 can be serviced for a couple of hundred dolllars and give you years of dependable service. Another option is the older gens- the 16500 series. Sure, they're not the latest and greatest, but these older Daytonas with the Zenith (Rolex model #4030) "El Primero" movement are becoming collectors models in their own rights at this point. Picking up a gen Daytona with the Zenith movt could probably still be done in the $6K range, maybe less if you shop around.

I happen to think that that is a kick a$$ watch. I like the green GMT hand, green GMT Master II lettering and the green datewheel. Big deal if it has a few tells, it's still a great looking watch IMO. If anyone should ever happen to call you out, just tell them how much you didn't pay for it!

No, the asian 7750 w/ running seconds at six is a movement unto itself. I doubt it would be worth it to try to swap in an ETA/Valjoux 7750, but that's a question for someone like Ziggy. Sometimes it's better to cut your losses and run.

Accurate and reliable. OK, you can have them serviced. That should improve the accuracy, but as far as the long term reliability, it's hard to say. Basically these are good movements to stay away from. Do you want to keep throwing money after them, it's your choice. Look around for Ziggy and see if maybe he can service a watch for you. I've heard on one Daytona w/ the running seconds at six where he had to disconnect the running seconds at six so that the rest of the movement would function. Sometimes you have to compromise. He can service the asian 7750 where the running seconds are at nine with much better results.

Were hoping to do better than the NDT pricing, or www.jewelryandwatch.com/. But for a chocolate 1680, you probably have to pay the tariff.

My guess on the first pic is that it has the asian 7750 movt w/ the running seconds moved to the 6 o'clock subdial. Your chances of really getting a 7753 are probably zilch, it's an expensive movement and I doubt you'd be able to move the subdials to the correct positions. The asian 7750 w/ running seconds at 6 is not a very reliable movement- the additional gearing to move stuff around bogs the movement down, causing it to fail. The older Daytonas w/ seconds at nine were a little better. Some of the dealers around here still have a few- or at least did a month ago.