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alligoat

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Everything posted by alligoat

  1. A couple of years ago I got the DRSD from Paul. Surprisingly, it has a genuine working HE valve in it. In fact, it looks like an exact copy of the original Rolex HE valve, like in freddy's Rolex patent drawing. This case is 37.5mm, not 40 as stated in the description, decent plastic crystal, so-so bezel insert. Whether or not you'd be able to fit a 1575 movt in there, I don't know. All I've done with the watch is trim the cg's, drill the lug holes and grease the o-rings. I don't particularly like the yellow markers on the dial- just a little too yellow for me. And a good pearl would help. http://www.pam111.com/product_info.php?cPa...;products_id=44
  2. freddy, if you're looking for a 1575 for a 1665, you need to look for a 1500 Date or a 1600 Datejust perhaps. These are the least expensive of the 1575 movts around. Or keep an eye out for the movt only, but they run around $900-1000. I would doubt that a 1570 (no date) is going to have the extra stuff for a date movt. But hey, I'm not a watchmaker. I looked at a 1575 datewheel at my watchmakers and he wanted $85 for it alone. Add a plate or gear or two and you'd be better off just buying an old watch with the correct movt. And don't forget to allow a couple of hundred for servicing- these movts are 30-40 years old!
  3. Have you checked with riverwindmds? He is in Italy and that sure beats China or the US for cutting out customs!
  4. Yep, I agree with you Pug about removing the tube. Although on the last two noobs, I did not remove the tube or the bezel, and just masked w/ tape. Stingray, I'm only removing material from the dial side of the crown guards and typically only at the two bottom inside corners. I have removed material from the case at the 3 o'clock edge, but only to straighten up the bottom line- too much, and you end up w/ too much of a gap between the crown and the case. But a little gap on the vintage subs is ok. Removing material from the outside edges of the crown guards isn't something I've gotten into yet. But in the case of the 1680 like Pug's it certainly is a worthwhile undertaking. One of the problems with vintage MBW/WM cg's is that they are too fat when compared to gen cg's from the 70's. If I had to guess, I'd say the first gen pic of Pugs is from a 70's sub case, and the second is maybe an example of 60's square cg's.
  5. Yeh, I hate it when the Search feature treats you like an idiot! Shaping cg's is really pretty easy. You need some basic tools, case back opener, 1.2mm screwdriver, a rat tail file, and a small flat file ot two, wet/dry sandpaper, 320/400/600/1000 and some type of polishing compound. First, open the case, remove the crown and stem by depressing the button next to the stem w/ the 1.2mm screwdriver (nothing smaller or you risk screwing up tje keyless works), remove the movt holddown tabs and screws and remove the movt and dial from the case. Next, you have to decide if you're going to remove the case tube, or mask around it. If you're going to remove it, jamb that rat tail file in there and turn counterclockwise to unscrew it. Next, either pop off the bezel or if it's a noob, where the bezel almost can't be removed, mask over it. Take your small files and file the inside bottom edges of the cg's to make them straighter and more perpendicular. It's a good idea to have some pics of gens to look at as you do this. Go slowly and from time to time put the crown back in place to see where you stand. Once you're about where you need to be, start using the wet dry and progress from 320 to 1000. After that use your polishing compound and get it back to shiny. When you're reinstalling the case tube, use some lock-tite as you're threading it back in there. Clean up the case and reinstall the movement. Greasing the o-rings w/ silicone as you go along will help with making your watch more WR. Check the watch repair section for more tips, but some of this stuff hasn't been covered in a while.
  6. Serial Number for a noob- all noobs that is, is F520117. So the second pic is not a noob. But the first could still be one- but the pearl is better than the typical noob pearl.
  7. Congratulations on your Super Ocean. And yes this is a rep forum, but everyone here appreciates the gens and enjoys seeing them. And you can wear your gen and not worry about being called out! Enjoy.
  8. REP. Look at the cg's- they envelop the crown at the bottom- gens are much straighter. Crown is too big, also. On the side view, look at the position of the crown- too low, common problem on reps. Engraving looks OK- beats that lazer printed/engraved junk. Pearl doesn't look too bad in the pic. If the cg's were trimmed and a gen crown installed, it would be tough to call.
  9. If you become a VIP member, you have access to the dealers section. Then you can look around and buy from whoever you want to- for a whole lot less and hopefully get a decent watch.
  10. Is this an MBW case w/ the Rolex 1575 movt installed?
  11. I've bought two on ebay awhile back, but not lately. Your best bet is to go to his website listed at the top of this page. That's what I did last week. I just don't think he's selling datewheels on ebay anymore. Previously, they were sold by Luenfat- over in Hong Kong- but recently he hasn't been selling hardly anything.
  12. I just had a little time to look at the stuff the Jensen Dinh has on ioffer and it's very interesting. I just wish he'd put some decent bezel inserts on his vintage Rolex watches! Case engravings look ok, and he's able to put Rolex movements in his stuff. I also like his 6036 case w/ assymetrical pushers. Some interesting stuff. Sure wish I knew what his source was!
  13. Since he ended the auction early, he was probably happy with the price and he might have some more. You could check with him and see. Heck, he might even sell you a crown off ebay in the $50 range which would be a better deal. Never hurts to ask.
  14. Power reserve is in the 40-42 hr range, but that is fully wound, optimal conditions, blah, blah blah. 8-10 hours ain't good, but first order of business would be to open it and see what you have- make sure it's an ETA- but even a chinese auto would go about the same time span if fully wound. You might need to have it serviced, but if you bought it from Ideal Watches, you're already smarting, but at least you found this place. I don't know if you could send it back and get a refund or not. I probably would lick my wounds and go on- lesson learned. The problem with the ETA's in reps from China is that they are technically surplus, so to speak, and may be in need of servicing. Some do OK, some don't. I bought a movement from Hong Kong, 2836-2, and it stopped w/in a month. But after servicing, it's doing fine. I'/m sure you're not excited about spending the next $100, but at least you'd still have the watch. If you send it back, you may have nothing.
  15. Here's a 24-703 crown from Mark Greenberg, http://cgi.ebay.com/SS-Rolex-Submariner-Se...1QQcmdZViewItem It ain't cheap, but he's reliable. Then you could pick up an aftermarket case tube from Gary Clark over at Clark Watch supply (nostalgia2000) on ebay- $18-20. And you'd be in business. Just remember to counter sink your sub case and retap the hole before you install the case tube.
  16. Here's a watch from Bernard Watch in Austin to compare to the Franken by Jensen Dinh: http://www.bernardwatch.com/item/RLX2987 Interestingly, it has the pointer on the balance bridge, I guess making it early, before the microstella balance was introduced. It would be interesting to find out what Jensen wants for his franken- it actually looks very nice (and new!)
  17. Monday, there was a short 93150 w/ end pieces offered for $525 obo on TZ Today, there is a 93150 buckle for $260. Also a P-serial 16610 for $3100- not a bad price in my mind. Seems like 4-6 months ago you could pick up decent 93150's in the $400-450 range. djpropel had one on ebay for buy it now price of $450 three to four months ago. I may try to get a few rep bands from Paul- the end pieces may not be 100%, but they do have hollow mid-links. But I guess someday I'll have to break down and buy a gen 93150 for my gen 1680.
  18. Yep, you probably boogered up the keyless works. My watchsmith charged me $30 last time I did it to fix the problem.
  19. Well, I ordered a vintage overlay last week from these guys. It will be interesting to see if I get anything. Paid w/ Paypal- guess I could leave negative feedback... but would it do any good?
  20. Why not interchangable bezels? That 6239 w/ an oyster band looks nice to me.
  21. Answers to your questions, TR, are as follows: 1. You won't know if you can fit a gen dial in your rep case until you remove the rep dial and movement and stick the gen dial in the empty rep case to see if it fits. 2. Forget about it. It's an integral part of the rep case. 3. No, you need a 2824-2 4. Probably, you might need to make an adjustment or two. It's time to buy some tools and get to work. In the mean time keep reading, and reading and reading and good luck.
  22. Nice job KKS. That's a very good looking watch and at a whole lot less than a gen. Congratulations.
  23. I reported #1. Wrong hologram, 16233, Datejust #! Wrong end pieces- 455B, unfilled out certificate, shixxy pics. the guy sells clothes, not watches. #2- well what can you say- alot slips by ebay these days.
  24. I'd say rep. Pearl is just a tad too small Crown looks a tad too big Second hand is just a pinch short Slightly conical rehaut Date mag looks OK to me MBW perhaps?
  25. It would be great to know what Ubi's formula is for making a bezel w/ the acrylic pearl. The PMWF insert isn't bad, I guess, and I believe if you could get the vintage acrylic pearls from watchesandparts over in Hong Kong that show up on ebay every so often, but aren't cheap for a pair ($60+ or -), you could make your own insert. I've also noticed that this guy has a vintage insert alone, that appears to have the acrylic pearl for around $60. Don't know if it's any good. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1 But I'm with tribal on this, you need an insert with the acrylic pearl, no metal surround. As for the T-39, I'm not really sure what is correct, but a domed crystal from Helfands (or is it Clark's?) wouldn't look bad and who's going to know! Chances of running into delgado or one of the other WIS from TZ are slim and none in my mind!
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