preacher62

Well there you go...it's all a function of money. You can have a new gen bracelet for $700 to $1000. I've been wearing my MBK with the Noob bracelet for two years and no one has even ever asked me to see it. Sometimes I think we get to thinking that everyone is looking at our watch. No one even cares about your watch but you and the other people on this board. Spend all you can stand. If you want perfection, Bailey, Banks & Biddle has it. Otherwise, spend $40 and get a good bracelet.

Mine's not bad. God two of them. Some of the coronets on the rep clasps are more deeply stamped than a gen.

I does make sense and I thought of that. Just haven't come up with a better explanation yet.

Thanks for the response. I have backed the clamp screws off just to where the movement is stationary and used some blue threadlock on the screws. I think that this is a satisfactory fix. On the accuracy...could be that the date flip is a symptom of the same problem. I'm just making this up, but I think that with the dwo mounted and the clamp tightened down too much it presses the date wheel slightly against the date change wheel under the date wheel, slowing the movement. I might be all wet on this as I have not researched it, but it could be. I think that it is on the dial side of the movement. I don't think that the clamps compress the movement, itself...that could really tear something up. Thanks again for reply.

I love it...that is my new favorite watch! Thanks for sharing!

This might not be the right board for this question but here it is anyway. What is the formula for correctly tightening the case clamps on a ETA 2836 in a sub case. I have some that run great, but have found out recently that if you tighten it down you can compress the dial ring to far onto the movement and hose up the date changing and even slow the movement down. On one that was running -10 sec/day and the date didn't change correctly, I loosened the clamp screws 1/4 turn and now the movement is running in the 1 - 2 sec range and the date wheel flips like it is supposed to. Don't remember anyone ever commenting on this. Sometimes the bend in the clamp bar is just right and sometimes not. Thanks!

BK will sell you a new Noobmariner bracelet for $40. He can also set you up with a WM9 bracelet, I'm sure. Eurotimez sells MBK bracelets for $70. Email BK at bklm1234@gmail.com

My biggest complaint is that most all of the aftermarket inserts have an incorrect "2". As the number goes over the top and then starts down next to the "0" it goes straight down almost to the middle of the "0". This is not correct. The gen insert just goes down about 1/5 of the way. I'm just picky, but I don't see why an aftermarket insert would not be correct, but none are.

Yes it will...guaranteed!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ROLEX-TUDOR-Vintage-7016-0-Submariner-Snowflake-Watch_W0QQitemZ330403534309QQcategoryZ31387QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m8QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DMW%26its%3DC%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7862758912941586978

You're right...it's terrible. Send it to me and don't worry over it anymore.

Just noticed a bunch of Rolex quartz watches on the bay. I didn't know they ever made them. http://cgi.ebay.com/Mens-Rolex-Watch-DateJust-Oyster-Quartz-18K-Gold-2-Tone_W0QQitemZ230433230500QQcmdZViewItemQQptZWristwatches?hash=item35a6e40ea4

Been said here many times but once more won't hurt. I have a TT that I wear for dress up only. Not a daily wearer. Plating wears thin and that is another dead giveaway. Rollies are solid 18K except for the clasp. They never wear off.

I have been looking at the pics, on this board, for the past few days and have to agree with Tribal on one thing...the vertical crown position. There have been several that have posted pics of the V3 implementation of the crown position and I do understand, however, I can't see what the hoopla is about. I have an MBK sub that I frankened and in looking at the pics I have held my sub up to the pics and for the life of me, I can't see enough difference to talk about. Like Tribal said, .3mm...maybe. .3mm is larger than a human hair, but, come on. The only perfect ones are at the AD. And this pic is not laying flat down. MT

FxrAndy...I really apreciate you sharing that article. I have found this to be true, on my own, over the years but never really read it in an official document. Everyone who is going to use a mechanical movement should read this, otherwise they are going to be diappointed. If perfect time keeping is the most important thing to someone (and they will obsess over it), they should buy a watch with a quartz movement. I have one quartz watch that does not deviate between time changes...fall and spring. It keeps near perfect time and you never have to touch it. This cannot be expected from a mechanical movement. Having said that, if one takes the proper care of a high-end mechanical movement, such as an ETA movement, having it serviced every few years, etc., it will last a lifetime. My ETA 2824s and 2836s will run about 36 - 40 hours on a full charge. I have a Miyota 8215 in an Invicta watch that will run more than 45 hours on a full wind. It is incredible.

Eurotimez will take care of you. Do not worry...but also, be patient. It takes time to remediate problems. I only have bought from two vendors, Eurotimez and BK and have had satisfactory service from both.

This is my late model MBK/MBW, from November '09. I had a Noobmariner and purchased an MBK case set from Eurotimez with a Clark crystal installed. I then transferred the movement, dial, hands, bracelet, etc. to the MBK case. The date wheel overlay is WM9. I plan to, eventually, install a gen insert, pearl and crown set. Pearl in pic is really bad; has been replaced with WM pearl.

The Miyota movement is a great movement. Mine is the most accurate automatic movement that I own. It, also, is in an Invicta 8926. I wish we would see more Miyota movements in our entry level reps. The DG 2813 is not even in the class with the 8215.

You can buy any number of watches for $100 (or less), at Walmart that will be waterproof, for sure. I wouldn't risk ruining my MBK for lack of a waterproof watch.

I have thought about putting a black snake or croc strap on it. Would look great. When I ordered my SS Noobmariner I first received the TT my mistake. Dealer told me to just keep it, seeing as how it had been so long already (I thought that was very generous), and shipped the Noob. I don't have anything in it, but would not have ordered it. I would convert it to blue insert and dial. That's my fav. of the TTs. All I would need is the blue insert and dial (or maybe Serti). Bet BK has that. I'll email him.

Thanks! I moved the innards of my Noobmariner to an MBK case and am now building an LV in the Noob case. I am using the 2836-2 out of black and gold TT. This leaves me with the gilted dial and hands from the TT as leftovers. Just wondering what to do with them. Something will come along. Might buy another movement and put the TT back together. Don't like to wear it though...wife says it's tacky. MT

Anyone of you experts out there... Was there ever a solid SS 16610 that had a gilted dial and hands? Thanks to all. MT

Is the problem that the crown comes unscrewed from the stem or is it that the crown does not screw down on the tube? I wouldn't think this with a gen crown and tube, however, with others the threads in the crown wears out to the point that you can't screw it down on the tube. A new crown would fix that problem.

I have purchased from them. Good experience.

I'd be up for that. I have used several of the most recommended inserts on the board but they are just not up to snuff. I think gen is the way to go...especially if you have a high-end case, like an MBK, etc. You get a gen pearl too. There is one on the bay for $179, brand new. I'd like to pay less than that, but I would give $100 for a pretty good gen insert w/pearl. I also need an LV insert. MT