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Ronin

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Posts posted by Ronin

  1. While not the norm, I have a 14yr old Miyota 8215 powered Submariner that is still running, never serviced, just now showing signs of dry/gumming.

    I have had great luck with the ETA based stuff as well.

    You might want to consider the TimeZone watch school. The knowledge from this class has armed me with what I feel I need to maintain my reps. Worse case at least the R&R of movements.

    If you get the point where you can are are comfortable R&Ring (remove and replace) movements keep in mind:

    Brand New 21J's (DG2813's) are $15.00

    Brand New Swiss 2836's are about $125.00

    Edit to add: IF you are a chrono guy with A7750's, get them serviced and use the chrono sparingly.

    Food for thought.

  2. Freddy333 is correct. Although Japanese is a 2nd language I know, I can only make out the Hirigana/Katakana. My Kanji is too rusty.

    It actually reads a lot like an updated version of Brozek's "The Rolex Report", from what I can make out.

    Edit to add: The Japanese are in love with the Daytona. It is perhaps the "grail" watch of most Japanese businessmen. I had a run in with a Japanese waitress while wearing my Black Widow Daytona Rep at a Sushi bar. I doubt it was my charming personality, but she wouldn't leave me alone. ;)

  3. There was old rule from when I used to build race cars. (Ahhh the SCCA days). If it was not a "torque" wrench required fastener--

    Tighten to a positive stop, + a 1/4 turn.

    NOTE: The above applies to cars not watches, but with experience you can use a similar logic.

    For me with watch bits--

    Tighten to a positive stop, + an hour turn. (hour turn in my mind is - if you stop/bottom with your screwdriver blade at 12:00 & 6:00, turn tight to 1:00 & 7:00) ~make sense?

    I would use the same logic with a case back. Maybe going out "2 hours" for tightness.

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