sssurfer

I'll assume that the $328 model is that from Josh or Andrew, and the $255 model is that from Silix. Silix does not state the movement as 28800 bph. He also says 'working chrono at 9', which is curious as the subdial at 9 is supposed to be running seconds. It might be because of his poorer English and website accuracy when compared with Josh or Andrew, though. Silix is known to be less expensive than other collectors on several models. Try asking Silix directly about the movement and chrono functions. Hoping that his English enables him to understand and properly reply your question...

That strap is gorgeous, and I think it would make for an even better complement on a brown dial 203. Thanks for giving me an idea for my 203! [/picky mode on] As for the 027/028 issue, for the sake of precision I have to specify that the leaf PR hand is not a feature of the 027 as opposed to the 028, but of the B and C series as opposed to the A series. As the 027 was made in 500 units for the 027A, 1000 units for the 027B, and 2000 units for the 027C, the 027 with leaf PR hand out there are 6x those with arrow hand. Conversely, the 028 was only made in 500 units for the 028A and 1000 units for the 028B, so you have "only" twice as many 028 with leaf hand than with arrow hand around. That is the real reason why we often see 027 with leaf hand and 028 with arrow hand. [/picky mode off]

Great! Thanks!

The second guess you made. BTW, welcome to the forum. If you take your time reading the more you can here, you will soon know a lot about reps.

GREAT!!!

I don't know how you did it, T., but really THANKS!

OOPS! THE BUTTON IS BACK!!!

Yes, this happens in all my posts in all sections.

Yes, I just tried to login with my email address and I got a "Sorry, we could not find a member using those log in details" error message. So, no clue about the missing button so far...

Uhm... just a guess... before I left, there was an advice here announcing an upcoming change in the login procedure. The email address was going to be used to login instead of the nickname. When I came to the site today after my one-week absence, the site requested that I login. I logged in in the usual way, i.e. with my nick sssurfer, not my email address. Has the change in the login procedure become active while I was away? Maybe this is the reason for the strange behavior of the edit button? All my other supporter features are still working.

Thanks for your prompt reply, Admin and Vicky, but I can only confirm what i said. Here is a capture pic of my first post on this thread, where you can see that the edit button is missing:

Admin(s), moderators, anyone who can help: I have been one week away, and the 'Edit' button on my posts seems missing now. English not being my motherlanguage, I used to make an extensive use of that button. Please help -- or you wil hav to suffer an even worse English from me than before.

I have been one of those who did not like your first post here. Apologies gladly accepted, and I am glad as well to add my welcome for you. Past is forgotten. Peace.

Nice! And nice to see B&R heading towards sort of PAM too

Folks, if you are speaking about the sandwich crystal, its measures are: inner layer (flat) thickness: 1.41mm outer layer (domed) thickness: 2.06mm at the center, 1mm at the edge. So the assembled crystal is 3.47mm thick at the center, 2.41mm at the edge. Adding 0.03-0-04mm for the glue, we go to 3.5mm center, 2.45mm edge. If you are speaking about single crystal, Jimmyzfu's crystals dimensions (which I suppose to be taken from a gen) are 3.6mm center, 2.8mm edge. You can see this is a little thicker, but a little less domed, than the first. OP official catalogues state central thickness for Luminor models as 3.5mm, with exception for the PR and chrono models that are 2.5mm. '1950' models (e.g. 212, 213) are 2mm thick. Radiomirs vary from 1.2mm to 1.9mm. Diameter should be 35.5mm. This would fit 90% of 44mm reps. But I saw 44mm reps with crystals as small as 34.93mm diameter, and as large as 36mm. In the end, my recommended dimentions for a sandwich crystal would be: inner layer (flat, glass) thickness: 1.4mm outer layer (domed, sapphire) thickness: 2.1mm center, 1.1mm edge. diameter: 35.5mm BTW, Lello told me he had a source for the inner flat glass layer of sandwich crystals. But that source got problems in making a neat hole for the cyclops.

Lello is working on a project for custom dials, kruzer.

Chief, if the rush is only on the underside of your wrist then it looks more related with the buckle than with the strap. Bracelets are giving you the same rush, or not? If it is the buckle, you might have developed an allergy to stainless steel (most likely to the embedded nickel), or it may be "just" a mechanical issue. Arguments in favour of the mechanical hypothesis are if you recently gained weight, or if you recently made heavier physical work with your left arm. Try to wear only Titanium or PVD buckles for a while, and/or to wear a SS buckle on your right wrist. If your left wrist recovers but your right wrist quickly develops a rush, than it is an allergy for sure. Once you know whether it is an allergy or else, and what the involved matter is, you might figure a solution.

I was having a quite busy email exchange with DSN (in his own interest) a month ago, when he suddenly disappeared. My last message did not require a reply, though, so I did not enquire furtherly.

Well, kruzer, I actually was the 2nd to try it. Lello tried before me, and he also succeded in getting the two layers glued back together, while I failed. The glue I used raised tons of Newton rings. The difference in thickness between the sandwich crystal and the single was negligible, W. The same teflon gasket worked perfectly on both. Instead, the crystal + cyclops thickness was obviously much higher on the single, and it made me obliged to use a Watchmen cyclops (the thinner and most powerful cyclops I am aware of) in place of the original one. That all happened on a Joshua's low-cost 104. A while later, Chieftang's single-side AR coating greatly improved the date readability by the Watchmen cyclops, and I recently managed to reshape the CG. That watch is still waiting for an archibald's datewheel layer, I plan to post pics of the final result right thereafter.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=209009 http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=214485 http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=22881 http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=219628 http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=273939 http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...st&p=296129 http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=53226 Besides of that... 089 comes in D, E, F, and G series. If your 089 is D series, a 6mm cyclops is decent (evef if not perfect). If it is E series, 6.4-6.5mm would be better. So a Chieftang cyclops (6.75mm) is acceptable. On F and G series, go for a Chieftang cyclops no doubt. Just, you either need to make a brand new sandwich crystal or to replace the sandwich crystal with a normal crystal (recommended).

http://www.rctritec.com/index.php?id=13 sales@rctritec.com Repair sets (1g powder + 1g varnish + 1g diluent + mixing pot and glass rod) were at 41 or 44.20 CHF each, depending on the color (C3 and natural: 41 CHF; C1, white and coloured: 44.20 CHF). Plus 30-40 CHF shipping & handling, depending on your country (Europe 30, other countries 40). Those were their prices on March 2007, at least. Ask Elisabeth politely for one or more sets by qualifying you as an amateur/hobbist watchsmith. Unfortunately, they were not taking credit card or paypal payments.

Naturally I was not suggesting that you are one of those wearing reps to impress others, jmt. Interesting to verify how similar concepts can look different when expressed with different words.

Stay assured it is not black paint. Considering how closely it resembles the gen (you may have a look at my BR review here) I think it is genuine PVD. Possibly a thinner PVD, though, to give reason of its lower resistance. Another possibility is it is black oxide. But black oxiding stainless steel is a hard process involving strong acids and very high temperature, I suppose it is not more economically convenient than PVD. So there would be no reason for the makers to use that black oxide instead of PVD. Forget about modifying the PVD look by wax or so.

That is awesome... astounding... amazing!!!...

The only correct swan neck is the Asian one! Here is the real thing from the OP website: http://www.panerai.com/img/1/prodotti/dett...0_vista_3_g.jpg Sad to notice that DSN's 6497 is the 'Swiss' type. I formerly thought it was almost perfect. Thanks, Vaccum! Excellent comparison & review! You made me realize subtle differences that I was not aware of before reading this thread of yours.