Drulee

Why would it be larger, you had to disassemble the balance assembly in your above mod anyway. The advantage of just filing the existing top plate, is you don't have to pay for, and wait for deliver of, a part. Plus you don't have to shave down the plate to make it fit. I'll try and find that post, and add links here ..... EDIT: sorry couldn't find the thread, it may have been on RG

Now that's one mod I'll never try. Well done. Have you ever tried just filing the 'notch' sides to make it look like an incabloc? Goin did a couple (pics on RWI) and they turned out alright,

... doing the PAM 029/063 2893 conversion? Main requirements are access to H5 height gears and ability to modify/create movement holder/ring to secure 2893 in case.

So the 177 doesn't have a thinner top plate, but has a bottom plate with raised lume, which lead to the confusion. I have to say that the strap cut-out on the 111J case is another big flaw for the 'perfectionists' (of which I'm not one ), the gen cases have a notch similar to what the 177 case has, just a bit longer (ends closer to the lugs). Also the bezel height, at least on the 177, seems still to be too high still. Again, only really noticeable by the 'perfectionists'

Ah great! Just the review I was waiting for ... saving to PDF so I can read it thoroughly later

Ignore info on PaneraiSource.com, it is often wrong and occasionally screws up by using a picture of a rep instead of gen The 195 and 005 are definitely manual winds, that use the 6497-2 movement. The 195 has similarly decorated bridges to those on the 036B, while the 005G will have CoteDeGeneves finish on its bridges while maintaining the same shape as the 195/036B ...

WOW! Just the crown and CG alone make it worth the cash .. the oh so little cash too :Dj Any comment on the height of the cutouts on the top dial? I know some have commented about how they didn't look as deep as those on the new 111s

Looking very nice, just waiting for my DLC'd case to come back from Avitt to finish my 195 build I've got a Jakob personalized 195 CB, and although at first I wasn't too thrilled about it being etched (not engraved), after coating it with some clear matte lacquer to prevent wearing of the print, and a little sanding to blend in the coating, I'm quite happy with it. The only thing you need to do is perhaps get a thinner crystal, or shorter gasket, as that one sticks up way too high.

I think a better article would have been about how journalism has gone down the toilet the past decade.

Idiotic author, doesn't even understand what she is writing. Just one example of her stupidity from her own text, under the title "Yellow Pages and Adress Books": It isn't the address book or "Yellow Pages" service that has become obsolete, just the medium and/or delivery that has changed. Given her ineptitude, I doubt she has any grasp on current horological trends ...

Nope, tried that before, the Rodico doesn't have a firm enough hold so the hand always ends up moving out of place or to an angle. I think I'll just hold the hand down with some folded thick paper, like that used in financial report covers, and press down with my finger to keep in place while sanding/filing.

And then slide over the surface of a file? Or push into the Rodico and file while in place?

I'm going to have to shave down some PAM hand sets soon, so I figured I'd get some tips on holding them in place before doing so. Last time I folded a piece of paper with a cut-out for the base tube to stick out of, but the paper left a mark on the surface of a black minute hand ...... so any tips, suggestions?

There will always be a gasket, just reuse the one that is holding the current crystal in It is a good idea to put something (neoprene, cloth, whatever) over the crystal when pushing out and when pushing back in. Crystal press should be used to install the new one, but some have used a vice in a pinch. Trouble is pushing it in even on all sides. Be sure not to damage the gasket though, as they are hard to replace (no dealer seems to have them). And if the DSN crystal is a sandwich one, you also run the risk of damaging it while pushing it in (just look at it from the side, if it looks like two layers, it's a sandwich crystal ... ugh).

If you've never worked on a watch before, send it out to one of the modders to do it .. too many things can go wrong. If you have, then the best way is to remove the movement/dial and push out the old crystal either with a crystal press or your fingers. Then use the crystal press to put the new one on. Where did you get the new one (Ultimate, that eBay source..)?

That's great news, now all I need is a proper movement ring

That's what I love about PAMs, you learn a something new about their construction every day

Why is the dial lume weaker than the hands, shouldn't both hands and dial be in his "Tritium-like" lume ?

Why not? Mine is a rep, and I'm 110% happy with it .. the extra 10% because of the money I saved by not buying a gen But then again, mine isn't a DSN, except for his older dial (EL case, T48SL crown, LH CG, NO H0035 back , etc).

I going to ask about that gap as well Do you have any pics of the watch, with the previous crystal installed?

Try using the gasket that is currently in the DSN 111, as the rest of the DSN case is probably not as good as the one you are currently using .... I think

Thanks rolli. So these new cases would only be right for J series onward, unless the crown tube is switched out. Good to know.

I'd love to hear what the experts feel about these cases, now that a member has actually received one and provided some close-up pics. Hopefully they don't have a 'proprietary' caseback threading Also, did all the manual case sets come with hex crown tubes? Or just after a particular series? referring to case, not CG

Do you happen to know if that case accepts standard/DSN casebacks? I can just see it now, they make a great case, but it only accepts their new "J" series display backs P.S. You really should change the white balance setting on your camera.