txcollector

I'm working on a tutorial for that. The watch is under water, a very thin sheet of water but you can only get a good splash if the watch is covered. That and the angle makes the watch look 2 dimensional. I'm also working on a photoshop version of it like this (not done yet).

After I had my AP ROO Black Themes for about a week I was able to scratch the well finished bezel. I tried a couple of different options to fix this (pen from APBands and using 2000 grit paper) but the result was not the same. The only option left was to replace the bezel. Fortunately I was able to secure a new bezel from my dealer and using Archimedes post as a guide I went ahead with the replacement. I had a few challenges trying to follow the process because a few details were missing and of course I don't have the specialized AP tool to remove the lugs on the bezel screws. The AP ROO has a very intricate construction and I'm impressed with the capacity of the factories to replicate this. I'm no expert so this is a tutorial written so a beginner can do it. So please forgive me if some of the remarks are common knowledge. I have posted a similar version on another board and I thought it would help some folks here. Step 1: Remove the caseback. Easy step just remove all screws. and the back with the gasket come right out. One thing I noticed is that this gasket probably needs some grease. As we going to see this model is very intricate with a total of 17 different size gaskets. I decided to lubricate all of them just to be safe since the potential for water or moisture to get inside is high with some many points of entry. Step 2: Remove the internal slugs from the bezel screws After you remove the caseback you can see there bezel screws go all the way thru the case. You can notice also the nice engraved rotor. It's amazing the lengths those factories go to make these high end pieces. Now here's where the fun begins. You can see in the next picture that these screws are held by some very small lugs inside the case. Archimedes was able to share the specialized tool that AP has to remove these. Of course I don't have access to it. However these slugs are nothing a fine point heavy duty tweezers won't fix. Make sure to use heavy duty ones since the points will bend if the tweezers are not strong enough. With a some patience and lot of care the lugs can be removed. Remove all 8 lugs and keep them in a safe place. They are very small and easy to lose in your carpet. I'm not sure if/where one could get a replacement for those. Step 3: Remove the bezel screws Push the screws from the back and remove one by one. Be careful with the washers. If you want your ROO to be water resistant make sure to grease the washers when reassembling the watch. Step 4: Remove the crystal If you are replacing the bezel you will need to transplant the crystal. If you are just refinishing it it would be safer to do so as well. If you have a press this will be a lot easier. I don't so thumbs were used. Press from the outside and pop the crystal out. Putting it back in was a lot harder. Make sure the crystal is flush with the upper surface of the bezel. If the crystal is not mounted correctly you might have problems with leaks. Step 5: Reassembling the bezel One thing I noticed is that if you are not careful the washers may get in the way when you try to push the bezel screws back in So after greasing all the washers I decided to put them in first carefully with the tweezers. Then reassembled the top part of the case. Make sure you align the bezel screws in the original circle pattern. I was a little confused on how to position the screws until I saw the picture of the original fully assembled watch. Grease the caseback gasket, replace the back lugs and you are done. Optional Step: Greasing the crown and chrono pushers gaskets Since I had the watch open and had done the hardest part of this process (removing the bezel to grease the main gasket underneath the bezel) I decided it would be a good idea to grease all of them. As I mentioned previously there are 17 gaskets in this watch: A main one between the bezel and case A large one on the caseback 8 small washers on the bezel screws 3 on the screw in crown 2 on each chrono pusher At this point I had work on all but the crown/pushers gaskets. So I decided to go for broke and make sure the crown/pushers gaskets were in order too. I must say that wasn't such a simple task (at least for me). Number one, you need to remove the crown/stem. This is a modified 7750 so make sure the crown is in the first position (winding) before you push the button to release the stem. Search the forum for specific instructions on how to do this with a 7750. Needless to say I didn't do this and now I can't reinsert the stem. Since this watch is going to Vac for lume and service I'm not too concerned at this point. After you remove the crown, remove the two small screws securing the movement to the case. Be careful with those, they are very small and have an incredible tendency to jump out of the tweezers into the carpet where they go to die. Put the movement on the holder and let's work on the pushers. To remove the pushers just unscrew and remove them. I noticed an interesting detail that I also found on a review by Archimedes at RWG. The bottom pusher is machined. Not just the top of the screw but the surroundings as well. I'm not really sure why but just to be sure I took pictures and made sure to line up the screw exactly as I found it. The top pusher came out complete with the spring, washer and gaskets all in place. The bottom one came apart (again seems to be the same with Archimedes' review). It may be related to the construction of this specific one. Reassembling the pusher wasn't so easy since the gaskets are very very small and they did have grease coming from the factory. Again the tweezers were very useful. Once I had all the gaskets greased it was time to put all back together. Put the screws back in the hole, put the pushers in and screw them. Make sure to align the beveled part of the bottom pusher like it was before. I'm not 100% that's necessary but better safe then sorry. I hope this tutorial is useful for others. I'll update it when I have more information on how to fix the crown issue. TIP One thing that I noticed during this exercise is how easy it is for those tiny little pieces to try and fly away. Fortunately this was my setup. In reality this is a low budget lightbox but it was very helpful since when the little washers and screws went flying they bumped on the walls and fell on the felt where they stayed put. It also provided very good light for work since it was setup for my pictures. Just thought the tip would be useful.

PAM005 PAM111 PAM156 PAM183 PAM232 PAM243 Group Shots

I don't think the DW is that much of a problem but the rest of the dial is. Problems are: [*]3-6-9-12 numbers are too small and don't have the same finish as the gen [*]the guilloch

If I'm not mistaken this is the women's size.

If you can find a gen dial (a feat on itself) you will need to make a few mods, not matter what case. From what I've heard the cartel version is better for this kind of mod then Silix.

Since this doesn't appear to be a high selling model I highly doubt they will make any effort to fix anything with this one. We need to find a way to do the right mods

I did some investigation and this is what I've heard from my dealers: These are 1:1 replicas that were originally made for the gray market (if you're not familiar with this those are very expensive reps made to be sold as used gen, hence a much higher standard) None of the parts are genuine. They are however very high quality reps, including the strap which is made from genuine croc hide. With these supperep the factories won't release pictures to be posted on dealers sites for obvious reasons as they are designed to fool even ADs. Detailed pictures might reveal the defects. The fact we are seeing the pics indicates there are obvious flaws. Usually those superreps are not available as retail (wholesale only) This particular model has been available as wholesale for a few months and for some reason it made into the retail space (I suspect quality has something to do with that decision. I'd bet it didn't make the cut as a gray market item) There are only two factories making those and they will wait until a certain number of orders from the dealers are in to manufacture them, so the notion that there are 500 of those available is false. Those are made by order and there's a wait period to get them. The factories won't assemble them until the see the money. It would be very interesting to see a member review of this one. However at this price range and certainly with flaws getting a used gen may be a better route.

The previous best version had a Swiss movement with nickle plating that was mimics the gen. The current version doesn't have the plating but it's still Swiss. Like Lani said the bracelet makes the watch but you can't really appreciate in pictures. The combination of brushed and polished edges give a dimension to this piece that I haven't seen anywhere else. The rep bracelet is spot on. The departure from the gen is unfortunately the dial. A big flaw for me is the Malte Cross below the 12 which is VC's trademark. Josh's version is very small compared to the gen. I've seen other low end versions of VCs around that have a much better one. I wonder if we can find a good one for transplant. The other big flaw is the AR (the traditional heavy blueish one). I'd send to Chief immediately. The numbers are somewhat polished while the gen is brushed but that's an easy mod. And finally the guilloch

Thanks O/S Additional question, with these sec@12 models, would you know if the procedure would be to remove the crown/stem, remove the movement and then the pushers would be exposed? Not sure if there's something I should disconnect from the pushers before removing the movement.

Folks, Has anyone done any type of serious waterproofing with the AP ROO? I had to replace the bezel of my ROO due to a scratch so I had to basically disassemble the RRO and I noticed that the rubber gasket between the bezel and case and the one on the back case are not greased. I'm wondering if I should put some grease there. I assume the pushers and crown are greased based on the pictures I've seen in Archimede's review. However the bezel and caseback are dry as a bone. Anybody would have any ideas/suggestions? Thanks

From left to right: PAM005, MM20, PAM243

My point was that although I'm fine with them, I'm not crazy about Panerai. I've seen people that have 5 or more different models, they only talk about them, lot's of work modifying them, etc. So the MM20 is my entry point. I've spent a lot more on the Graham and HBB. Panerai is a good brand but for me one of the many.

I finally bought my first high quality reps!!! Thanks to all the folks that contribute to forums like this. Without the help from you folks I would still be buying low quality reps whenever I get a chance to go to China. After more then 1 year reading the excellent reviews of both replicas and dealers I took the plunge and bought a handful of replicas. I still have a long wishlist but that's what I can afford for now. Watches now are at par with my other hobby: Photography. I've received the watches from two dealers last week and after "taking them out for a spin" I took the time to take a few snapshots. I hope you enjoy them. PS: I will add a few comments about my impressions of the replicas and the experience with the dealers. Rep 1: Hublot Big Bang Big Bang Rose Gold/Black Ceramic Bezel A7750 28800bph I've bought this one from Tony at asian7750. It was one of his crazy sales and the discount was really worthy. He was a pleasure to deal with. Fast to respond and very accommodating. He took pictures of the actual watch before shipping per my request. The HBB came very well packed. Spotless. Top notch dealer. I'd do business with him again. This watch is gorgeous but I'm having sort of a hard time dressing up to wear it well. Maybe during my next business trip with a nice jacket. The AR is not perfect but it is very good. I'm not sure I would upgrade it for now. I don't care much about the differences in the movement although I might get into mods later. The only thing that bothers me a little about this one (maybe it was just my batch) is the hands. I took some close ups and the hands seem a little rusty. When you compare with the Hublot web site the difference is huge. However, you can only see that detail with a lupe. Rep 2: Graham Oversize Diver Chronofighter Date The next reps came from Josh. I know we pay a premium with PC but since it was my first deal I went with safety over deal (but I couldn't pass Tony's crazy deal on the HBB) Josh is incredibly fast to answer emails. Very professional and fast to solve things. I've aksed for an extra strap for an Montblanc Timewalker and he sent it free of charge. I decided to add a 4th watch to my order after paying for the first order and he quickly modified the website to remove the shipping charges on the additional watch. Just like Tony, the watches were very well packed and spotless. No complaints and Josh really lived up to his reputation. But we are here for the pics. Here's the Graham. This watch is incredible. It looks and feels like $1ks on my wrist. It is very heavy though. I can only wear it once in a while because my wrist gets a little sore if I have it on for too long. I love it though. By far the best AR in all the 5 reps I've got. I can't compare with Chieftang's work but if it's better then this, then I'm not sure what to say. The strap is very comfortable. Sometimes I shy away from some reps due to the strap, band, bracelet. While the faces seem very accurate, a cheap strap will destroy the rep. The lefty design for the chono is really interesting and the thumb pressing very natural. However setting up time and date is a little cumbersome. I just love this watch Rep 3: Montblanc Timewalker I'm really into dress watches. I dress for business more then casual (work, what can I do?). I can't pull of a Patek or Breget with my earnings. While they look good it's just not realistic. The MB is a classy watch that doesn't scream fake. The quality of this replica is incredible. I've tried this one at ADs many times and it feels and looks like the real thing. I don't mind the sunken DW on this one. Black on black, it's very hard to notice. The only thing that bothers me with this one (and I couldn't quite notice with the gen) is the lack of AR. Some people told me this rep is perfect since the gen doesn't have a strong AR but still I'm considering sending this one to Chieftang. Rep 4: RXW MM20 I know Panerais are king here. While I like them I'm not that crazy about them (I can almost hear the back-slashing starting. Wait until people here that I don't care at all for Rolexes :-) ) I thought the MM20 was a good way to start the Pam collection. Good entry price and apparently very good reviews. This one was the hardest to photograph. While the lack of AR on the MB created a few difficulties, the purple tint on the AR is really hard to avoid. It somewhat gives a cheap look to an otherwise great watch. The strap is also a little stiff. Not sure if it's just the size or quality of the leather. I will definitely look for another strap for this one (if only to to able to get some variety). I hope you enjoy my first photo post. It has been fun reading the forums, doing the research, taking the pictures and of course wearing and admiring my little collection. I just hope I can work hard enough to earn enough to sustain this new hobby. Boy this will be expensive. :-) Comments, complaints, all welcomed.

I was just reading a review on the TW and apparently the gen has a single AR that's not very strong. I'm wondering if it's worthy to get AR at all on the rep. Comments?

Oh, so how would I remove the crystal then? It would appear I have to get the crystal out before getting to the movement.

I just bought my first reps (from Josh and Tony) this month and I can say I'm very pleased (I'll post pics and reviews later). However the Montblanc Timewalker needs Chieftang's AR services urgently. Since this is my first try at doing all the work (removing the mechanism, domed crystal, etc.) I must say I'm more then a little concerned Does anybody have experience doing this type of work with the Timewalker? I'm getting Chief's press but I need some guidance with the process. The Timewalker caseback is screwed and it's a chrono which may be more difficult to do this without messing it up. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Although I have noticed that Bvlgari watches are not very popular reps, here's my top pick for a 2009 rep.