ubiquitous

Correct For the prize... Ehhh... I uhhh... Heh heh... Yeah....

Dots are correct for: 3700 3711 5711 3712 5712 5800 Track is correct for: 3800 3710 And there is a Jumbo w/ seconds- The 3711, though the case is 18K WG, not SS... Cheers, R ***Addendum: As I was driving into work, I realized that I forgot that 3800 can also come with a dotted chapter dial as well as the mid size 3900....

Yessir, B. You are correct. My first Daytona used a NOS Ebel 134 (aka EP400): And my second used an older Zenith 3019 31j: The 3019 was scavenged from an older Movado Sub Sea; much like SurPur's, my donor's case was quite nasty as well. The gasket sealing the caseback had been present for a very long time and was breaking down into a sticky, tar like material. I ended up sending the movement up to ZZ for a full overhaul, while the case was cleaned and added to my graveyard collection of souless cases...

As usual, a very in depth and interesting review By-Tor. My take away from all of this is that if you want an ultimate 16613, you should combine parts from the noob and MBK and add a sprinkle of gen parts to the mix? Perhaps a costly endeavor when it all comes down to it... But I do imagine that the end result could be quite nice... Great read... R

I believe the base material for the mixture that I'm speaking of is already combined with the phosphor. It's purpose in it's intended form is to be a luminous object as-is... BTW, does anyone have any guesses as to what it might be? Here's a hint... You'd probably look at one but not think twice about it as you're on your way about your business...

M- The process involves turning a solid block of tritium infused plastic into powder by filing; we're talking large quantities, and hence the health risk as that powder can be inhaled while filing. Mixing it into a paintable media, however is as easy as mixing it with an oil based solution...

Indeed... There are no sources that offer it directly. But there are ways to do it... I have a write up somewhere... Materials would probably not be too difficult to source... But there is a health risk involved...

I dunno... He's done some things pretty well... Apparently, this dial is a DSN or at least of the same originating source that he uses. I picked this up from a source that was not DSN, and I had no idea what the provenance was exactly (a few of my more PAM literate friends were unsure as well). After posting on the forum, there was mixed consensus and no clear answers until someone with the same dial in their DSN PAM10 posted a pic of their watch http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...mp;#entry437860 I don't believe he offers this dial any longer... Odd that the ones that are done right are discontinued or limited in volume...

I might have a few....

Indeed. I'm in the same boat, more or less. The 7mm's are fairly simple... I never really researched the 6mm or 5mm's either, so what little I do know is mostly forgotten...

M- Long time since we last spoke. Hope you are doing well Yes- I was able to source a couple of tritium pearls, but for a very high price. I ended up having to throw a few away- One was cracked, one was so dark in tone that it was unacceptable and the rest is what I have pictured, which I will be using in a few of my projects. I am going to see if I can source a few more, but am somewhat doubtful that it will happen... Good to hear from you! R

I know of a recipe to make it from somewhat common items out there (somewhat common meaning somewhat easy to get your hands on). Not exactly the cleanest process, but it can be done...

MBK 5513 has always been the gilt font as far as I can recall; the no date SCOC dial is a 5512, as Eurotimez pointed out.

Yeah... I still have it though I tore it all down again... Trying to determine if I want to stick with the 2824 inside or switch to something else...

Thanks, dovo and sd4000 Unfortunately, it's already disassembled and on it's way for some case work. While I used to enjoy doing things like drilling lugs and the sort, I now find that I really don't have the time to do it (setting up , etc). Besides... There are folks out there who are far more skilled than I and do a much nicer job on the case work than I would ever be able to do. So, rather than do a so-so job on it myself, I prefer to send it out to have it done right Hopefully I'll see this one back on my wrist soon... I miss it already... Cheers, Randy

I'm a fan of the 14270... The simplicity and basic design are very appealing to me... A franken I built... Start with a 16200 Remove the cyclops Add a gen 14270 dial And an ETA Finish with some hands and voila...

24-603-0 should work, though I believe some of these 6mm crowns were for use with a 5.3mm case tube. Memory is kind of fuzzy, but I seem to recall that all of the newer ones are using this set up (tube 24-5330-0).

Ended up with the Nauti on my wrist this morning: Tomorrow: Fri:

Generally, the old 1570/75's were non-quick; 3035's were quick and everything there after as well. Also, some 1570/75's were non-hack; those of a later production had the hack feature.

Gen: Tritium and Lumi... Unfortunately, not for sale...

Thanks again for the kind comments... Always very much appreciated!

*watching closely* I'm not much of a two tone kind of guy (or any gold for that matter), but am keenly interested in the review; this one could be the exception...

Movement/dial/hands are now uncased, and all other case parts removed for work... I'm already missing this thing... Oh well. Back to the Daytonas for the time being...

Haha! Don't you wish! The red bulls are calling your name, Robi.... R

TMG... I think I like the 201A bestest But the 201A has always been a fave of mine; especially back when they were still almost affordable (no chance of picking up a gen these days)...