ubiquitous

Recently did this one for a friend- I spent some time thinking of a watch that would suit her style and taste, and the Muller fit the bill perfectly. Started with a gen dial- Index markers a little dirty and smudged: Standard rep case: Dial relumed: Fitted to the movement: As it currently stands: Next steps: 1) ETA 2892 swap: 2) Gen crown and tube: Not a typical build for me, but a nice change from the usual Thanks for looking! //ubi

Indeed... This trip down memory lane has reminded me of the many exceptional pieces that our members have owned; past and current.

I've been known to dabble a bit in Rolex From time to time, I'll wander off and try some other brands... AP, PP, IWC... Sometimes Omega or Panerai... But I always come back to vintage Rolex!

diverguy- Wish I still had it! Sold it a few years back... Kinda look back at that one and wish I hadn't That was an MBW, sourced via Paso through MBK. It's probably closer to being a ref 3711 than anything else, so the closed caseback is correct (though the case metal is not; 3711 is 18k WG); perhaps this other Nauti Jumbo that I had was even closer to the 3711: And a gen 3711: Besides, having the closed caseback hides the ETA

Absolutely killer, Andei! That's an amazing build!

Franken 3717 for me today...

BT- No light box here. I tried one in the past, but with little luck. I got frustrated and went back to shooting natural light Maybe I'm just not patient enough... If I can find where I stashed it away, maybe I'll give it another go. ASF- I think I've managed to use that technique, but it leaves me limited in the kinds of shots I can take No head-on direct shots... Unless the crystal is flat and the dial is white (or if the crystal has chief AR; good for modern sapphire pieces, but not so good for vintage Rolex)

There's several listed on eBay between $112 (fluted, WG mens, or some of the ladies' models) - $700-ish (lots in the $400 - $500 range). At these prices, they're not moving at all.

Okay fellers, Short of using a polarizing filter (which seems to only help a little), what's the best way to avoid getting those pesky crystal reflections? Especially in watches with domed crystals? Seems to be quite the bugger... Any thoughts or ideas (without having to use editing software)?

Thanks gang for the replies. You've all effectively talked me out of the Sport I think the maintenance issues would drive me insane; it's maintenance problems that caused me to dump our last Audi. Think I'll just wait to get anything new. Not in any huge hurry (it's nice only having to pay on Mrs. Ubi's car). Thanks again! //ubi

Haha... I love the 'history' of this one! Good stuff!

Just checked- All I have is a couple of crowns for the Royal Oak Classic Thought I had one of these Nauti's broken down into parts, but I'm not finding anything

Not a chance! I love seeing these beauties! I find myself spending quite a bit of time staring at that 6202...

I'll check my spares to see if I have one...

Definitely one of my favorite dials for the Nauti:

16600 and the sort should share the same lug hole transition, I believe. I seem to recall some Y serials having them and some other Y serials not.

I believe I have now secured a movement, gentlemen...

F333- You need to post some eye candy! Cause I know you have some oldies that span into the decades if I'm not mistaken!

16610's had the lug holes until right around the Y into F serial, if I recall correct (2003-ish). I haven't had to think about that in a while, so I may be slightly off on that... 14060 continued on with lug holes even after the 16610 deleted them (they also continued to use loose end links on the bracelets as well)...

craigb- Nice DJs! I like where you're going with the Jubilee dial. I also really dig that sunburst... J- You've put together some fantastic pieces! I have to say, I have a soft spot for that Tudor Chrono you did! And of course, you've earned the crown for Tudor king around here as well! Amazing what difference even just a year makes!

Ehhh... You might want to ask him to drill the holes to ~1.3mm if it's a Sport vintage using the thick springbars; 2mm will be HUGE (that's the actual measurement of the springbar diameter itself; the pivot, which protrudes into the lug is 1.2364537876mm (just a guesstimate).

I would agree. Figure out what particular vintage model you like and then go from there. Plenty of knowledgable folks here that can help guide you through on what to look for...

That's what I'm talking about! Some beautiful (and rare) pieces have graced your collection, no doubt about it!

1665 dial is a genuine dial The last case in the set is an MBW 5513 case drilled and fitted with the valve: That was one of my extras that I had accumulated when I built my 5514... Since it was a spare, I turned it into a 5514 for my friend watchmeister.

Nonsense, you guys! Please post... It's always fun to look back and see where the addiction started! And to see what it's become!