RealReplica

WOW that looks a lot worst... the shrek fingerprint that is! I think we're gonna have to do some Chinese slapping soon.

Pat as far as I know the crystal can only be removed if you also remove the bezel. I remember someone mentioning this in RG on some thread, I can't seem to find it now though.

It does have AR but its only single AR while the gen has double AR, it isn't great I thought it had none but was checking now and it does have single AR. Sfa has pulled his one out of the case and it seems the crystal is 2 crystals 1 at the front Sapphire and laminated in the back Mineral Crystal. When I put the flash light against it there are indeed 3 reflections and only one shows the blue hue of the AR, maybe that lead me to beleive that the crystal had no AR whatsoever.

Impressions: Not so good: - Lack of AR coating (despite what some dealers say) - Happy feet - Non functional button (although I don't really know whats the problem here since who's gonna press the button or deep sea dive with a rep anyways?) - Bezel needs a bit of the dental floss treatment (not as bad as some pams though) - Clasp feels a bit cheap imo (others said its great) Good - Anodized minute hand - Lumed bezel, hands and markers - Great feel and lock on the crown (I'm impressed) - Very Good case construction (despite the bezel lock thing) - Very accurate despite the minor flaws highlighted above - Thick and comfortable rubber strap - Much more comfortable to wear than I first imagined, you can actually wear this as a daily watch without any problems Overall this is one of the best out of the box Omega replicas in my opinion and the only major flaw I would have to point would be the lack of double AR coating on the crystal. Not sure if this can be removed and reassembled but if so nothing the chief can't cure. The hands are spot on to gen and look awesome, the dial quality and printing is very very good. The lume is average to decent. The clasp feel like aluminium and feels cheap to me although it preforms its job pretty well and seems sturdy and secure enough to not come loose during normal wear. I'll be taking some half decent pictures within the next few days, just wanted to share my personal impressions.

I personally think these are horrendous... but that's just me!

I'm not sure if that will work to be honest. The problem here is making it so thin that is 0.14 of a millimeter. Does it have the same drying time if its cut really really thin or it will harden faster?

I don't know the effect that it will have, if any, but I want to try and source one to see anyways, then try to get some larger screws if that has no effect whatsoever.

Thanks for the comments guys! Really appreciate em.

Great shot no doubt, that shows exactly why I say the rep dial doesn't get anywhere close to the gen.

Thanks for that... here's my fish duo saying hi...

Beautiful pieces you got in there. Where did you source the fish gen dial? If you don't mind me asking. The gen dials on the fish are amazing and its a big tell to the rep, the rep dial doesn't get anywhere close to the gen.

As promised on the Breitling Forum here's the Eye Candy of the new build. Unfortunately I'm on the laptop with no access to photoshop so this was the best I could do without photoshop. Hope you like it Super Avenger V3 case Gen White Baton dial Gen Croco Strap on Gen Deployment Gen Bezel V2 Case back

1. So far so good these bits are under pressure against the spring and the bezel screw holes and I've rotated the bezel a few times and it stayed in place without problems. I know this is a temporary solution as I want to try to get new screws for the bezel to replace the old ones or the gen ratchet ring but while I don't have either this seems to be working fine. Even if they get displaced I think that you can use a bit of welding to keep them in place. The screws are flush against the case (they have round heads so never really flush). 2. The V3 is approx 1mm larger that the V2 at the base of the case where the ratchet ring fits. The dimensions for these areas are: V2: 39.16 mm at the bottom of the case without bezel. (where the ratchet ring sets) V3: 40.44 mm at the bottom of the case without bezel. (where the ratchet ring sets) Diameter of the V2 recessed part on the case: 38.95mm (Where the retention clip engages) Diameter of the V3 recessed part on the case: 39.55mm (Where the retention clip engages) So the difference is slightly over 1mm on the cases however the gen bezel's interior diameter is 40.60mm at the widest (base of the bezel). The V2 bezel diameter at the same point is 39.40 mm.

This was originally compiled and posted over on RG (my regular home) but I thought I would share with our friends and Breitling aficionados of RWG. The threads I refer to on the how to can be found on the breilting area in RG. Hope it helps at least 1 of you! First off I got a V3 case (which people report to be the same as the V1 SA case as its the same factory however I'm not able to confirm this as I've never owned a V1 SA). I then sourced a genuine bezel from DC and requested the compression ring to be included (I didn't know I needed a ratchet ring at this stage). Here they are Since I didn't know I needed a ratchet ring I was having some problems to get the bezel to click (it would never do it without a ratchet ring), this was when I created a thread here to request help from other members (thanks to all that contributed and showed support, I really appreciate it). From that thread I learned that this was really hard to source a genuine one and without it I wouldn't get the bezel to be unidirectional and to click while turning. Since I had the old V2 case I set off to take the bezel out of it, this is a really hard job, its not easy at all to remove the V2 bezel without either cutting it or damaging the case. The bezel is pressure fitted and its under a great deal of pressure really so not easy. DISCLAIMER: If you're thinking on installing a gen bezel on a SA V2 case I would recommend you think again because not only the rep bezel is almost impossible to take out the gen bezel will have a diameter almost 1mm larger than the V2 case, so even if you manage to fit it I would say you'll have a pretty large space between the case and the bezel and it won't look that good. So if you want a gen bezel V3 is the only real option imo. Back to getting the ratchet ring... I've managed to get the bezel of the V2 out and retrieve the ratchet ring. This ring however and since the V2 case is smaller on this area than the V3 was about 1mm too small. Here you can see the 2 rings you'll need to make the bezel fully functional. Please note that this image is not of a SA but they look pretty much the same, also note that the what I call compression ring its labeled here as retaining clip. I've used a dremel tool to grind a bit off the inside of the ratchet ring so that this would fit the V3 case. Here it requires a bit of trial and error so that you don't sand it too much. Once the ring fits the V3 case just put it in place and place the bezel on top without the compression ring or anything and you'll see that it clicks and it will only move in one direction. This ensures that the ratchet ring is seated properly in the case and engaging the bezel indentations properly. The next picture shows the bezel interior part, you have a small recessed area where you should insert the compression ring this is also in level with the screw holes and the screws should push the ring against the case to that it remains in place and doesn't come loose. Always try to install the compression ring and place the bezel on the case, fasten all the screws tight and see if the bezel is secured to the case, try rotating it normally and pulling it with your fingers a bit to see if its secure, in my case it wasn't. The case measures 40.44mm at the widest point and the bezel measures 40.60mm at the tightest spot. This 0.16mm difference was enough to allow the bezel to come loose without much effort and enough for the screws not to push the ring against the case enough that this would secure the bezel in place. I don't know if your distances will be the same and if the cases are constructed the same way, assume these are made without any QC by people without any knowledge and work from there. I would recommend you to take your own measures, check and double check if the bezel can be fitted properly with only these steps. If your bezel is secure like that, you're a lucky man/woman, if not, read on... So if you got here you realized that the 0.16mm difference in diameters from the case to the bezel was enough to prevent it from staying in place during operation. The best solution you can have is source 8 round head screws that are 0.18mm longer than the ones that come fitted and just replace the screws, however that may prove a daunting task. I'm sure it won't be easy to find screws like that with the same thread size and exactly the size needed since the difference is so small. I hope I can be proved wrong here though. Well since I couldn't find the screws, I started thinking on how I could extend the screws allowing the bezel to keep its functionality. Among other methods tried I got a few types of paper clips (even some yard wire tbh) to find ones that would fit the hole, would sit in place but wouldn't be too loose on the hole, I then proceeded to cut some tiny bits of the paper clip and then with a dremel I sanded down the "rough" side of the small extender. With the screws a good bit out but not fully removed from the bezel I've introduced the extender bits on the screw holes from the inside, they were loose enough to be pushed when I fastened the screws but not too loose that they would fall off the bezel. Once all of them were done, I've placed the compression ring on top of them and placed the bezel on the case. Then it was just a matter of fastening the screws in place and Voila. Here you have the paper clip bits, notice the smallest one, that was the size of the little "extenders" I used on the bezel. And now the end result. DISCLAIMER 2: Use the information on this how to at your own risk. There are considerable risks of damaging your watch if you remove your original bezel or other case parts. I cannot be held responsible for any damages that may arise from you using this information on your own watch. Some extra info: I would like also to share with you that while doing this I've found out that the V3 case quality isn't great. For instance the crystal is relatively easy to pop out of the case (good thing if you plan on sending it to chief but not that good on any other situation). Also wouldn't think this case to be waterproof. I wouldn't recommend you use your V3 SA to swim and I would recommend that you take some care with water, don't submerge your watch. The V3 has a brilliant AR however the hue is greenish and not gen like, the much noticeable blue AR of the V2 is closer to gen but is much more noticeable. With the dial mounted behind the case and in almost all lighting the hue of the V3 AR is almost invisible and it isn't annoying at all (imo). However this case has its advantages, being almost 1mm larger than the V2 case makes the gen bezel much easier to install and it will surely look better on the V3 case than on the V2 too. So if you're planning on installing a Gen bezel I would definitely recommend the V3 case however if quality of construction is more important than the appearance of your watch buy the V2 instead. Any questions I'll be happy to answer. Thanks to everyone who helped and showed support, your insight and support is greatly appreciated. I'll take the deserved better pics sometime tomorrow if the weather is good

By-Tor I would send it to Breitling straight away... that gen has a wrong blue dial!

Yodap mate, don't get your hopes too high. For dial replacement the watch would almost certainly have to be sent to Breilting, even if the AD can get it installed and sent off from Breitling, Breitling will always request the old dial back exactly for it not to end up in replicas. Even your father for as much persuasion power he can have will surelly have a very hard time getting old of one. If it bothers you too much, just get a gen, they aren't that expensive.

Nice pictures and congrats on your pickup, throw it a gen dial when you get a chance and you have a 99% equal to gen watch... here's one from my franken white battons:

That is awesome, thanks for sharing this! Bookmarked!

Thats a really cool idea, I don't know if I manage to get there in June yet, or if we're able to fly in June at all anyways but I've written the dates down and at a later stage I will confirm if I will or not be able to attend. Great work guys!

Hmmmm where did you get this wheel from? Now get me a Navitimer one pretty please!

I've ordered this one from T for my BP, can't shoot pictures cause I don't have the BP with me.

No replica will ever be exactly like the genuine. If you want one that is 100% like the gen you have one place to go... the AD.

Disagree, do not handwind a automatic movement unless is absolutely necessary. Winding a automatic watch may cause damage to the movement. Most of the A7750 (I think all but not sure) will wind up with a clockwise motion of the rotor to start up your watch the best/safest way is it rotate the watch on your hand (simulating the action of a automatic winder) for a few rotations, tapping the watch with gentle taps will also work because it makes the rotor move but you run the risk of displacing chrono hands if you tap it too strong. It appears to me the OP has had his watch in "the box" and takes it out and its stopped. Well mechanical watches are automatic because the movement posesses a rotor that spins with the movement of your wrist. This rotor will wind the watch automatically. For the watch to be fully charged you'll have to use it for a few hours on your wrist, a few movements or just an hour of use or so will NOT charge the spring fully and the watch will stop within a short period of time. Also remember that if you have the chrono funcion running the watch's power reserve will last less time. After using the watch for a normal 12h you should expect it to be fully or close to fully wound, then a Asian 7550 should last between 30 and 40 hours normally some last a bit longer others a bit less but it will remain running for over a day or it should. Remember that if you leave it in the box for more than this time the watch will once again stop.

Thanks for the info BT! Appreciate that