gioarmani

I don't think you can buy "frames only" on reps. No need to though; all floor-models at your optometrist will have plano (non-prescription) lenses in them; all non-prescription sunglasses do, rep or not. To them, the "reps" might as well be their in-house "gens", if you will. If it's a plastic frame, they simply pop out the planos, and pop in the prescription lenses, after the lab has ground & shaped them. If they're metal frames, they just remove the screws where the eye-wire meets the temple, insert the prescriptions, and screw them back together. Don't buy lensless frames though--it will make it too hard (if not impossible) for their lab to cut new lenses to fit your frame shape exactly. For instance, if the pair of frames you bring them to fit for you isn't a brand or style they stock, they simply pop out your plano lenses and insert them into a machine that reads their shape & size, so that it knows what size to grind your new lenses down to. If you don't need prescription (i.e. you're wearing contacts, behind plano sunglass lenses), they can also test any lens you give them to see if it's UV A & B resistant. If it's not, it's generally only $20 or so to have them soaked & coated for UV resistance. I've bought a few pairs of mens & womens from this site, and they're very well built (2 pairs have lasted years with virtually no signs of wear)--as with any pair, just make sure you snug all the screws & nuts down: http://mirror.replicasi.com/catalog.asp?CatID=00100005

Try these guys: http://www.swisstgallery.com/ Relatively inexpensive, and I've had mine for years with no trouble. The first one I received from them had a scratch, and after emailing them, they actually sent me another 2nd day before I had even mailed the other back (which they paid for). Quite professional; rare that.

Appears to be the norm now--"luck of the draw", as it were. You can pay $100 to Zig or someone to repair it, but I don't think it's anything detrimental to it's life expectancy.

Well there's your problem. Try one of these, and you won't be disappointed: http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebO...mp;nclm=MacBook

Lol--probably a gen. My AD's repairman said since Rolex quit utilizing the El Primero chrono movement that ran seconds @ 9, and redesigned their own movement to run @ 6, that most of the new Daytonas he'd seen were a piece of [censored]--even more so than a lot of other Rolex models.

Very nice.

Nice, Ubi.

Curious--is this one geting sold, or just a keeper?

Very nice. Can't wait to see it's completion.

Lol--The Darwin Awards. Awesome.

I like that one. Maybe I'll take up smoking...

Hmmm...

May be a bit repetitive and requires a modicum of patience, but it's always worked for me. I currently have six (ETAs 2836-2s & 2671-2s, and Asian 7750s & 7753s) all synched with each other, almost to the exact second. The way I do mine is as follows: 1) Open the digital clock on your computer. 2) Remove the case-back 3) Stop the second hand on the watch by pulling the crown out to the time-set position, to activate the hacking movement (stop the second hand directly at the twelve o'clock position). 4) Then roll the minute hand forward to where it will be, one minute from now. 5) When the digital second hand on the computer reaches 12 o'clock, push the crown back in so the watch & the computer's clock are now synched to the exact hour, minute & second. 6) Put the watch on a winder for a night & compare your watch to the computer's clock after 24 hours to see how far off they are. 7) Pop the caseback. For example, if the watch is now fast by 10 seconds per 24 hours, simply adjust the screw so that it loses 10 seconds for every 24 hours; alternatively, do the opposite, if it's slow by 10 seconds. (If adjusting via the screw doesn't regulate it enough, on an ETA movement--like the one pictured below--the farther apart you move arms A & B from each other, the longer the stroke, so the slower the watch will run. However, a little goes a long way with this, so use cautiously) Each notch towards "+" represents a 5 second gain per 24 hours. Each notch towards "-" represents a 5 second loss per 24 hours. Adjust accordingly NOTE: For Asian chrono movements, they're slightly different. See the little regulation arm circled in red?: If it's running too fast, you'll want to move it to the right (counter-clockwise, as shown with the red arrow below: If it's running too slow, you'll want to move it to the left (clockwise & opposite of the red arrow's direction). The regulation arm on the Asian 7750s & 7753s (sub-dials at 6, 9, & 12 o'clock, or at 3,6, and 9) are very sensitive--they only need to me moved a fraction of an inch at a time; not as much as the picture shows (it's merely an exaggeration to illustrate a point). Now repeat steps 3-7, to test it's accuracy. This should be perfected after a couple of days. I technically have no way to measure the movement's beat-rate via electronics or machinery, but at this point don't really need or care about that, as long as the watch is keeping the best time it can. I've now got six synched automatic watches that are so precise, I can literally watch the second hand roll over the 12 o''clock position at the very second when the time on my cell phone (or computer) changes minutes. They're damn near almost exact as digital or quartz watches now. Note: Depending on what position you store your automatic watch in, will play a role in determining how many seconds it gains or loses every night--this is why I keep them on a winder, so that they are constantly moving and not at rest (in the same position). If you lay an automatic watch flat & level (with the crystal facing up), it will usually gain a couple of seconds per night. If you lay the watch on its side (with the crown facing down) it will lose a second or two per night. Contrarily, if it's stored on its side (crown facing up), it will generally lose 2 seconds--or more--per night. EDIT: Chances are, if you've performed all of this and your movement is still too slow or too fast, it's running dry & will probably need a full service. On the bright side, once done, you won't have to touch it again for another five years. Hope this is of some help to you. Have fun!

Gratzie. I do have two questions maybe someone could help with... 1) Will a gen bezel insert fit this watch without sanding, etc.? 2) I wonder if a gen bracelet will fit the rep just as good?

Or walking around with a time-piece that smells like Uncles Day at a whorehouse.

You'll definitely lose the subtle, refined qualities of that champagne with the Rockefellers. Actually, a quaint & simple table-wine like a Spanish Albarino or Italian Verdicchio goes perfect with shellfish.

You still in FL? Maybe we can buy you dinner in exchange for a little watch work!

I'd buy that in a heartbeat if the movements weren't so much. Maybe one day.

Handsome piece; quite stately.

Would a gen SMP chrono insert fit the rep without sanding?

I will say (and I'm sure a lot of people will disagree with me on this) that if I do buy another gen soon, it will probably be this one again--but the newest model with the metal Omega ohm symbol, and the red-print "Seamaster" on the dial. I.E., the 2225.80: not the 2599.80:

I think maybe it was just the way the camera's chip interperated the macro shots with the given lighting during each shoot, possibly. Side by side, they appear the same. Even the dial print quality is flawless on the rep. Still amazing.

Sorry, but I was going by old photos & trying to shoot from memory as best I could. I sold my gen SMP to a friend for Xmas, otherwise I'd have done a side-by-side shoot with them both.

You're more than welcome.