freddy333

Perhaps, I am unique, but very few civilians ever actually see my watches, because they generally remain hidden below my shirtcuff (other than t-shirts, I never wear short sleeves). Of course, it only takes a split-second glimpse of some of the more iconic or popular models to elicit a reaction from the average watch enthusiast. But, by far, RWG people see ALOT more of my watches than anyone on the street ever will. So I sometimes wonder if we might tend to over-neurose the accuracy of our watches without any real cause.

I think the Chinese just use whatever movements they have on hand or are able to get for the best price. There does not appear to be any forethought put into the parts used, which is why each factory's version of the same watch often differs. Then, they just find ways to make things fit as best they can.

I do not know about a Hong Kong link, but this is the main ETA website (from the home page, go to customer service & customer service portal - you may need to register to access most of the data).

The sticking point in building a current model Daytona is & has always been the seconds at 6 movement. Yes, if there was sufficient interest, 1 of the factories could produce a faux chrono (using existing rep parts), but I think that the majority of rep buyers (who are much less knowledgeable or critical than we are) are more interested in having a functional chrono, which is 1 of the reasons we have not seen a modern Daytona rep with an accurate dial & case. But, until/unless a Daytona Super rep gets made, read post 7.

Functionally similar, but differing sizes ETA 2834-2 Dia - 29mm Height - 5.25mm Day located around perimeter of movement at 12 o'clock (if you are building a DayDate rep, this is the 1 you want to use). ETA 2836-2 Dia - 25.6mm Height - 5.05mm Day located adjacent to date at 3 o'clock. Both - automatic 28.8k bph with 40 hour power reserve, hacking, sweep second with quickset day/date. I believe both are currently still in production.

Well, actually it is an el cheapo in a Sub case. But, as I mentioned, it has a working Hev, which the current MBWs do not. For that alone, it has value.

He seems to be 1 of the more reliable collectors.

I am very happy for you. Try to remain patient until your watch arrives. I know how it feels.

Really? They are new..................well, new to him.

I agree with Alligoat. I have 1 on my bench that I got a couple of years ago from either Josh or Andrew I used the Hev pin & gasket from that watch's case for my DRSD (you can Search out the tutorial on how to drill out the Hev hole in the side of an MBW case). I happen to love that bracelet, but, to the best of my knowledge, the clasp is a fantasy design as Rolex never made 1 like that. The watch does have a nice silvered ETA datewheel, but, unfortunately, the font is not quite exact. And anyone who would know or appreciate the datewheel's silver color would also ID the san serif font as being wrong. The other reason I bought the watch was for the dial, which is pretty close to NDTrading's Doublered, but also suffers from its same primary problem - narrow index markers at 6 & 9. But if you can find someone to widen those markers & relume all of the markers, I think it would best the standard MBW Doublered dial. Mine came with a gen ETA 2836-2.

More importantly, the Ofrei pushers not only operate smoother (like the gens), but also look correct (the cap dimensions on DW's pushers are slightly off). Gotcha covered there. I had my assistant give the watch a thorough going over

Tempted to trade, not quite. But I have a sudden urge to urinate into a bun whilst j-walking.

Using the Search, you will find this cure for the ailing secs at 6 movement (just print out & give to your watchmaker - all of the movements I have thus treated have continued to run trouble-free) & a guide to building a more accurate secs at 6 Daytona.

Hahahaha No, hang on........what kind of panoramic views????????

I think I see the tell-tale screw slot at the end of the center post & it looks gen correct otherwise. So, if you need another (or do another Daytona), you might try 1 since they they can be had without customs & additional shipping charges. Be prepared for additional (unforseen) setbacks, as they seem to go with the territory. But just keep the ultimate goal in your sights & know that you will eventually get there. Nearly all of the construction problems CAN be solved. Maybe you need more convincing

Hahaha Thanks. Hopefully, karma will intercede & the seller will get scammed by whoever wins the ebay auction.

Thanks, Zig. So is your circadian clock synced back with hometime yet?

Beginning the workweek with my trusty beater

If asked whether your watches are fake (unless you were seen driving a recent vintage, high end luxury car), just tell them 'Hard to tell. I took it off a dead cop.'

Ditto that. Sorry to hear about the additional customs fees, but you are still way under what some people sell these things for (check out Phong's prices for the exact same parts). Ask Cousins if their pushers come with long center posts that have screwdriver slots at the bottom end? If they do, then they may be the right 1 (same as Ofrei sells). Or, better yet, see if they can supply a picture of the disassembled parts. Post it here & I can tell you that way. Of course, it is always best to pay less than more. But, considering the watch these are going into, I think that if you look at the additional customs fees NOT as an additional expense, but, instead, as the cost of getting a classic Daytona done right, it will be quite palatable.

Flakiness is 1 thing, but he was genuinely sorry when he became aware of the mix-up & did phone the other guy to see if he would be willing to return the movement (like that would happen). I just have to wonder if Bob is even aware that the guy he gave my movement to is a flipper? Or whether it would matter to him that the movement he sold for a few hundred is now on ebay & likely to fetch 20-30 times that?

Even though modern is not generally my thing when it comes to Rolex watches, I have to say that these steel GMTIICs are 1 of 2 exceptions to that rule (the other being the Daytona) & I never get tired of seeing them in wristies. Great shot of a great watch.

Not my thing either, but, all things considered, they do look pretty good if rep bling is your thing.

Before you do anything else, decide on which specific watch model you want & then visit your local Rolex Dealer (AD) to familiarize yourself with the fit & finish of the genuine article. Try it on, set the time, wind it & take note of how it feels. Then, visit Rolex's website, google or any other sites that have downloadable pictures of the gen Rolex you are interested in. Download as many pics as you can find of the watch from different angles & familiarize yourself with its appearance. Then, I would recommend reading By-Tor's GMTII rep reviews & as the previous respondent suggested, use the Search feature to read as much as you can about the various rep versions available for that watch (there are usually multiple rep versions of the same watch & each has its pluses & minuses). Good luck & welcome to the fold.

Those of you who have been following my 6542 project will recall that I purchased this partially disassembled (though complete) 1036gmt calibre, 6542 dial & handset from Ofrei 2 weeks ago. You may also recall that due to a screw-up at Ofrei, the entire lot got sold out from under me to someone in Ohio 2 days after I paid for it. Well, although it comes as no surprise, it did cause my blood pressure to spurt when I saw my movement & dial for sale on ebay for what I am sure will turn out to be astronomically inflated prices. Unfortunately, I will just have to chalk it up to experience since there is nothing left to do but pout.