freddy333

I do not believe Rolex made a case tube specifically for the Daytona. Most likely, it is a tube for the original 7mm Triplock crown (700), which is used in many Daytonas & other Rolex sport watches.

If the movement is knocking around inside the case, most likely 1 or both of the movement locking clips have come lose & are likely working their way into the movement (not a good thing). If the movement is not knocking around inside the case, then the movement just needs to be serviced (disassembled, cleaned, lubricated & reassembled) by a watchmaker. Assuming your MBW contains the usual ETA movement, any watchmaker (who is willing to work on a rep -- I would phone & ask before making the trip) can service it. Depending on the rates in your area, service can run anywhere from about $75 to about $250 (a hungry watchmaker sitting in Duluth, Montana is likely to be at the low end of the scale, while a busy watchmaker in New York City or L.A. is likely to be at the high end). But if you do hear something 'knocking' around inside, I would recommend not using the watch until you can locate & remove whatever is loose or dislodged in there.

I had originally planned to use a gold linen dial that had been sitting in my parts box for a few years. But that dial was in pretty poor condition, so I ended up selling it. Now that I will have 2 cases to choose from (the original 16013 that is pictured at the top of the thread & the just-purchased 16014), I guess I have a bit more latitude with dials. My main requirement for this gen dial is that it fits the specs for 1 of these cases & is relatively inexpensive (less than $100).

There are a number of aftermarket tubes used in reps & unless you can locate the same 1 that was originally installed in your rep, you may very well have to re-drill and/or retap the hole either way. This of course assumes that whoever assembled your particular watch did not cross-thread the original aftermarket tube's threads, which would cause you to have to retap the hole anyway. On the positive side, a tap is essentially just a long screw made out of hardened steel (so it will cut new threads into the adjoining metal) that you screw into the existing hole. You screw it in a turn & then back it out a bit, then screw it in a turn & back it out a bit.....until you make it all the way through. Voila'. Nice, new threads. Then just screw in the new tube & you are done.

Ok, I am convinced. Sold & thank you (all) for the input.

Thank you.

Thank you & I will.

Thanks & that is too bad. I guess the hunt continues for a 160xx caseback. If anyone comes across 1, please PM me.

By-Tor -- I hope this has not already been answered (too many times -- I did not find it via Search), but is there a single tutorial describing what mods are involved in transforming Andrew's stock GMT into the chs you have? At this point, I just want to understand the process. Oh, I almost forgot the wrist shot (Overlooking the area around Camp David)

It looks like they are finally beginning to produce semi-believable vintage lume.

Ditto what the other 2 said. There is no reason not to go with the better tube at this point. The difference in longevity (and feel) is worth the additional price/effort.

PM sent.

Do you know if it fits the gen 160xx case & does it look the same (on the outside) as the 160xx DJ caseback?

I saw that, but I am not sure if the 16200 back will fit the earlier 160xx case, especially since they used different movements (3035 in 160xx, 3134 in 162xx). Anyone know?

That would help alot. Once I know the rep back fits the gen case, I can try to locate a spare rep back or just order a rep watch (for the back).

Or answer a simple question. This is like pulling teeth........ Perry -- if you really want help, why not post the model number & a good, clear picture (or 2) of the watch. Then people can provide you with informed answers.

Gotta get me 1 of these 'Pepsi' GMTs with correct hand-stack someday........ Until then, wearing this this evening

I agree, but there must be a script or applet that can automate that process. In any case, even if it has to be done manually -- & I say this with all due respect -- that is what Moderators are for. No? At least that has been my experience after having run and/or moderated a number of forums as far back as 1989.

Although I still try to help out, I have to say that, in general, I do not like recurring or automatic billing schemes, no matter who runs them or how benevolent their purposes may be. And I frequently avoid purchases or memberships to organizations that rely on them. I am sure others share my feelings, which may account for the low Supporter numbers. Remove the auto-billing (or make it an easily disabled & easily located user option) & I bet donations & memberships will increase.

My dial on left (which is the same as yours, except that it has been relumed), NDTrading on right

It is the most accurate aftermarket DRSD I have seen. I bought 1 on the bay 2 months ago, but have not seen another since then. Where did you find it?

Help is on the way.

It translates to about $3,360 & some change.

Phong must be feeling the recession. He sells these from his website. If he is willing to sell it for $3,500 that is certainly better than his usual price, which is outrageously inflated. The movements are usually genuine (or modded gens) & he does use a number of gen parts. But, until you receive the watch (and even then), it is impossible to tell exactly what is gen, what is modded aftermarket (made to look gen) & what is aftermarket since he sells everything as gen. I can tell you that the 1570 movements can be had for around $1,400 +/-, the aftermarket case for another $1,200 or so & the remaining parts for another $300-$400. If you do not want to have to search & construct the watch yourself, it is probably a good deal for $3,500.....assuming you are getting what he is describing.