freddy333

Apparently, a standard repgeek account is insufficient to access that page. Thanks anyway.

Not a Poljot in sight To each his own. You are surprised that a gen Rolex owner might 'blow a fuse' when you inform him that you are manufacturing fake Rolex watches?

Alot of these noisy rotors can be tamed by simply cleaning the rotor & its bearings in an ultrasonic (you have 1 of those I hope) & then lubricating with 9010 as per ETA's recommendation.

Remove the bezel & spray some automotive engine (high temp) paint on it making sure it seeps down into the depths of the engraved numbers. While still wet, take a soft lint-free cloth dampened (not soaking) with paint thinner and gently wipe the surface (do not press down into the grooves of the engraving) until the surface is clear of paint. You may need to wipe a few times with fresh clothes to get it completely clean. Let the bezel dry & reinstall. If you have ever installed a groated tile floor, the process is very similar.

Simon -- To each his own, but can you post a direct link to the seller's site for the watch on the right? Thanks.

I agree with Alligoat -- For only about twice the cost of a good DJ rep, you can construct a franken with a gen dial, case, crystal & crown/tube that will put any rep to shame. Although prices are heading higher, you can still find some gen cases with gen dials being sold in the $250 range. And the difference in look, fit & feel of a franken is well worth the additional cost for a watch that also gives you the option to 'upgrade' to a gen movement to complete the transition (if you choose to do so) at some time in the future.

Actually, it sounds like s-h-i-t-e, but it is quite a collector's item and I have alot of personal history attached to it. Like I said, I generally play a 'Paul, which is a much better instrument (for playing music). Meetings today, so it will probably be 1 of these (gens)

Not me, but I would bet that just about any machine shop would be able to produce an exact copy (given the original to use as a guide).

A Rickenbacker 325. One of the last from the original series used & made popular by the late John Lennon.

Jimmy3 - I think that pretty much says it all.

1. Mineral glass (glass) has a green tint when viewed from the side (unless purposely colored during the manufacturing process (like the new Milgauss Anniversary) sapphire appears white or clear). This is probably the easiest way for most people to identify a glass lens. 2. Mineral glass, at room temperature, always feels cool to the touch. Sapphire tends to feel cool as well, but it does not feel as cool relative to (mineral) glass.

I think that is a good point & 1 that I have in mind when considering the purchase of a new rep. In general, I will not spend more than about 1/10th the cost of a gen on a rep. And, with the exception of a handful of franken/grail watches, my max limit for any commercially made rep is $400. But I know how passionate we all are about our watches, so I can understand those who operate with a more 'relaxed' buying guide.

I would love to grab that movement, but the price is a bit out of my range for a non-grail watch. But I like the way you think, Nanuq.

Interesting, but 140231226067 (black dial) looks more reliable & will probably go for well over its current bid.

Nice axe, watch & picture (amazing color coordination). I am wearing the usual beater today I usually play a Les paul, but these are my 2 favs

I do not think I have ever seen a 'fresh, clean ETA' in a rep. From what I have seen or heard from others, they tend to be used and/or unserviced (even those from sellers who charge an additional fee to 'service' the watch for you are usually borderline). In the 20+ years I have been collecting watches -- gens & reps -- the only rep that had what appeared to be a 'fresh, clean' ETA was this 1, which I got in the mid-80s (You can read about it in this thread) I could not agree more here. The Seagull/Lemania copy is, in my opinion, THE highest quality movement ever put into a commercially made rep watch & 1 of the best-made movements in general. I have owned 2 Daytona reps with this movement (the 1st for almost 10 years) & they wind, run & keep time flawlessly Although it is obviously inaccurate by today's standards, I have kept 1 in my permanent collection solely because of the quality of the movement. I used to own an AMF Sportster, so I know about quality issues. But I am definitely scratching my head over your (negative) comments about the DJ. My 1st gen Rolex was a 16013 (I still own a 16014) & it ran, flawlessly, for many years until I lost it. And that was without any servicing, which was a mistake on my part. I also had a relative who was a professional Rolex-trained watchmaker & I remember him telling me that Rolex watches were the 'best made' watch in the world. And although I am an amateur, at best, that has been my experience as well. The 3035 is probably 1 of the weakest links in Rolex's movement chain, but I have never had any problems with either of mine. Alot of reliability issues are down to the individual tech who services (or last serviced) your watch. The watchmaker in my family used to service watches that had just been returned from Rolex NYC & I remember a couple of times hearing him cursing under his breath as he remedied something the Rolex tech had done wrong or failed to fix the 1st time. I do not think this was a frequent problem, but it happened enough times that it made an impression on me when I was a teen.

Overall, I think the ETA-powered reps are pretty reliable these days. Especially, if you get them serviced regularly, which is a prerequisite for any mechanical movement. Gone are the bad old days when even the best reps were powered by cheap, unreliable Asian 'mystery' movements (these bear no direct relation to the 'Mystery' DW movements) that were considered great if they kept reasonable time for 6 months before they ticked their last tock. Like others said, you rarely hear of problems with 7750-powered watches these days (exceptions being the secs at 6 modified versions, even though many of the 1st generation are still ticking away without missing a beat). But if you plan to keep your new Chopard, I would follow Ziggy's advice & get it properly serviced. Then you should be able to enjoy it without fear (at least until the next service interval).

Did a bit of watch cleaning this evening & still wearing this (very clean) sample But I think By-Tor has convinced me that I will have to locate/add a correct hand stack 1675 'Pepsi' rep/franken to my collection. I believe the GMT hand is located between the hour & minute hand on the 1675. Is that correct?

If you are going to replace the crown, I would recommend replacing the crown tube at the same time with gen parts (crown & tube). The reason is that the rep tubes (& crowns) are junk & the threads on them usually strip soon after you replace them, which requires re-replacement. The gen parts, which you can get on ebay (ofrei.com, cousinsuk.com, julesborel.com, etc. all sell good, Swiss-made aftermarket tubes that work well with a gen Triplock crown (3 dots under the crown is usually a Triplock)), last alot longer & make your watch 'feel' more gen-like. There are multiple tutorials on how to swap out tubes/crowns in the Watch Repair forum as well as in Ziggy's sections.

The ETA 2846 is the correct slow beat movement for a vintage Sub or Seadweller. Repaustria posted a short tutorial on how to mod the clutch lever spring to remove the extra notch for the date setting. If you are comfortable disassembling the keyless works, it is an easy mod. If not, any watchmaker willing to perform mods (Ziggy) can do it for you.

Avitt -- you could be right about the Breguet overcoil, but I remain unconvinced that a pristine gen Daytona 62xx movement just happened to get separated from its gen Daytona 62xx case & ended up going solo in an ebay auction. A more likely scenario is that the owner (or modder) was unable to locate an aftermarket dial without give-away flaws (welcome to the club), so he decided to cut his losses & part out the bare movement for a quick $25k instead of trying to hold out for an $80-$150k buyer who is looking for a complete watch. The more I ponder that premise, the less legitimate that auction appears.

I agree. For your 1st exposure to reps, especially for the price, you could hardly have done much better than this 1. With proper care, it should last a lifetime. Enjoy your new toy.

Nanuq - No surprise there. Pictures posted from http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c36/34dean/ Poster 'Brady1031' from IP address 69.0.32.38 --- performing WHOIS on "69.0.32.38"... pppox pool bras4 mrdnct.12355 SBC06900003200023060425163605 (NET-69-0-32-0-1) --- performing WHOIS on "NET-69-0-32-0-1"... CustName: pppox pool bras4 mrdnct.12355 Address: Private Address City: Plano StateProv: TX PostalCode: 75075 Country: US

If I saw this movement in a known-gen watch, I would take it as is. But a few images (followed by Phong's comments) from jewelryandwatch along with the seller's thin storyline leads me to think otherwise 'The price for exchange Main Plate only You have to send us your old main plate to exchange' --Phong (Phong also told me he can engrave anything you want on the plate.) 'Complete balance bridge with genuine Rolex jewels units and genuine stud, The price exchange with your old Valjoux 72 balance bridge only, you have to send us your old balance bridge' --Phong 'You able to send your balance wheel to us to modify and install genuine stars, this parts for 727, 722, 72B Note: Must have screw balance wheel, This price for exchange or modify only' --Phong