freddy333

Definitely -- luck & timing is the name of the game. I found a new gen set of steel Daytona hands for my watch several months ago, but I have not seen any more since then.

The price range I quoted was accurate at the time I wrote that post (January). But, as has been noted numerous times here, prices for anything with the name 'Rolex' on it have been (& continue to be) rising.

I guess it never hurts to take another look at an old subject, but there are a number of tutorials that describe this already.

If my watch cases were not already over-booked, I would have to add 1 of these white dial beauties to my collection. Very nice, By-Tor.

Not. They are both the same diameter (25.6mm), but differ as follows ETA 2840 Height - 5.2mm Jewels - 23 Beats per hour - 21.6k Power reserve - 48 hours ETA 2824 Height - 4.8mm Jewels - 17, 21 or 25 Beats per hour - 28.8k Power reserve - 40 hours Optional hack feature

See this thread. The current Daytonas, 1165xx models, have running seconds at the 6 o'clock subdial. All previous Daytona versions had running seconds at 9.

Unless you have a timing machine (or know how to ballpark the beat by movement of the balance), you should never/not move the larger arm. That 1 sets the beat. The smaller arm adjusts the length of the hairspring, which fine-tunes the speed of the movement (the longer the spring's effective length is, the slower the movement runs & the shorter it is, the faster the movement runs). Usually (if the movement is in proper working order), if you move the small arm closer to the larger arm, that will lengthen the spring & slow the movement. Conversely, if you move the small arm away from the larger arm, it shortens the spring & speeds up the movement. However, if the movement is out of adjustment, the small hand may have had to be set past the larger hand to offset a large deviation. In this case, the opposite may be true. And that may be the case for your watch. So make a very small change & then monitor the watch's accuracy over a period of several hours. If it is still off, make a corrective readjustment.

I was not aware such a thing exists. If so, can you cc me on that also? Thanks.

By-Tor -- Thanks to your always brilliant pictures, I think I may actually be warming to the GMT-Master, which I have never liked before. I wonder if the correct hand stack movement is available for the original GMT-Master (with non-metalized index markers & matte dial) in a case that accepts gen parts (crystal, crown/tube)? Anyone? Oh, & I am wearing this while working on this

Beautiful watch.

Yes

Bob Frei can be tempermental & just plain weird at times. But if you do your homework (always a good idea anyway) & order by part number, ofrei is a great operation to do business with & usually my 1st stop for tools, parts & supplies. Cousins is also good, as are Cas-Ker.com & Julesborel.com.

Exactly.

Yes & I will reveal all in short order. But the purpose of the post is to get some (unbiased by me) input, so I know what direction to go in.

A guy who is willing to pay $20 might be willing to pay $25.........

Correct, version I layout. The gentleman gets a cee-gar.

Sensing the potential for a windfall of profit made me light headed & I guess I forgot who I was or where I am??????? Back on topic -- Dowling or someone had pictures in their book of a Sub dial that had been relumed by the London RSC & the area around the markers looked a bit like the dial in my 1st picture, where some of the material migrated into a 'pool' around the marker. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to locate those pictures, but if anyone knows what I am referring to, what do you think about the dial in the 1st picture in that case? ____________ Update -- I just found 1

Yes, they always screw something obvious up on every dial. In this case, it is not because they are unable to make or get the correct markers, because the index markers that came on the 1st version of this model (the 1st version had unpainted metal around the index markers) were perfect. But, unfortunately, the subdial markers were 'off' on that version. It bears repeating -- They always screw something obvious up on every dial...........

Except for a non-secs at 6 problem that occurred 1 week after I received it (which the seller's watchmaker repaired), mine has been keeping near COSC time for almost 2 years I have to figure out how to correct those hideous 3/6/9 lume markers though.

Sorry, CONUS only.

Hmmm......this is getting interesting.

Cash?

I plan to finish the last of my grail projects by summer. Other than that, unless someone produces an accurate Lange 1 or Deep Sea, that is about all that is on my radar screen for the foreseeable future.

A couple of dials for comparison

Yes. The last 2 of these that I have handled were reps being sold as gens. Hard to be 100% certain in this case without seeing it in person, but the pictures look suspicious to me.