freddy333

By the way, is this the proper forum for these questions or should I post them in the Expert Area?

Offshore: Ok, just so I don't end up with the watch equivalent of a drowned camera: the suction-handle contraption (like the one Birdman sells for $4) should be sufficient to reinstall the caseback and still achieve water-tightness (presuming all seals, etc., are up to snuff)? If so, I'll add that to my parts order list. Any other tools/parts/supplies you'd recommend for movement removal, hand r&r, crystal r&r, vintage Sub/Sea-Dweller dial reluming, lug hole enlarging, crown guard modding, etc.? Many thanks!!

I just had a brainstorm: I'll get a 50lb iron anvil and weld the front of the watch case to the top face of the anvil. Then I'll weld the caseback to the drill chuck of my 10 ft/lb hand drill. In theory, since the drill can only muster 10 ft/lbs and the anvil weights more than twice that, the caseback outta loosen long before the anvil leaves terra firma and begins to spin... It's been a long week....

Offshore: I know the tool you're talking about and almost purchased one a few days ago. But I wondered "how do you tighten the caseback to assure water-tightness (or at least water resistance) without the proper socket (to lock onto the caseback splines) and torque"? I figured you still need some sort of socket to reinstall the caseback, and, if so, I might as well get that issue squared away before I try to remove the caseback. I don't want to do a Dubya and get in without having a plan to get out (or, at least, close up). (There's a joke in there somewhere...) lionsandtigers: I don't know if it's a good sign or not, but the duct tape didn't work on the vintage DRSD case I just got from TrustyTime. Alligoat: I don't mean to question your memory, but are you sure the Dbce55a is the correct drill bit to enlarge the lug holes to match the gen Sea-Dweller case and fit the OEM sized spring bars? Just before I placed the order for the Dbce55a, I took another quick look at my 1/16" titanium bit and it doesn't look much larger than the stock lug holes the TrustyTime DRSD rep came with (and the stock lug holes are definitely smaller than the gen holes). So if my 1/16" titanium bit (which is larger in diameter than the Dbce55a) looks too small, could the Dbce55a be the wrong part number?

Alligoat, Good points, all. I'll order a set of the Dbce55a bits (along with 2mm diameter spring bars) today. Re the caseback remover: what do the modders here usually use to r&r the casebacks? The "L G Rolex Case Opener" that Birdman's got advertised for $75 looks good (even includes a case holder), but I'd like to get some feedback on this (or other recommended options) before I buy another opener that turns out to be...well, problematic. I've got a handful of old reps that I'd like to mod. I'll be making a trip to Home Depot this evening in search of a drill press of some form (hopefully that I can use with my hand drill). I'm not too worried about my ability to do the actual modding, it's getting all of the tools and parts together that I'm worried about. Based on my initial days of reading, I thought I'd had everything I needed a few days ago. But plans went awry when the caseback put the brakes on the operation and some of the recent responses I've gotten have raised other questions that weren't answered (at least not clearly) in what I read. For instance, I now understand that the larger 2mm diameter spring bars may not fit inside the stock rep bracelet end pieces. As these are just bent sheet metal, I'm not clear on how to enlarge them to fit the wider spring bars??? I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get the caseback off and try to remove the crown tube (e.g., is there a recommended crown tube remover?)....

You had my hopes up there, but I just tried it and it didn't work. That thing is definitely screwed on (water?) tight! As an aside, I just checked the fit of that same socket on an old (cheap) 5513 that I purchased a several years ago (with Asian movement) and the 29.5 socket fits perfectly. However, when I compare the splines on the 5513 caseback to those on the TrustyTime vintage DRSD, there's a visible difference. When viewed from the side, the profile of the DRSD splines are considerably more vertical than that of the splines on the 5513, which look very much like the gen caseback. Odd, considering the 5513 was a cheapo and the TrustyTime DRSD is an otherwise well-constructed ETA-based rep. Gee, I sure wish I could find one of those MBWs I keep reading about (but have so far been unable to locate...hint, hint...).

Alligoat, Thanks for the additional info. I didn't see that part number (55) on the snap-on.com site, but I did find a part number DBCE55A (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?tool=all&item_ID=63028&group_ID=939&store=snapon-store), which is a 'Drill Bit, Wire Gauge, Cobalt, .0520"'. Is that the same one? Also, I've already got a set of titanium drill bits (titanium's supposed to be better than cobalt for drilling through steel) in sizes of 1/16", 5/64", 3/32" on up. I realize this probably isn't your specialty (mm-to-inch conversions), but do you know if the 1/16" bit size is similar to the bit you used? The DRSD rep I got from TrustyTime contains an ETA and the caseback removal tool from WatchPrince looks like the same thing ofrei is selling for a few dollars more. So, from your comments above, I'm guessing that the caseback on this DRSD is slightly larger than normal. Any suggestions as to how to remove the caseback since the 29.50 socket I've got doesn't quite fit? Here, and I thought removing the caseback would be the easy part! I guess I'll have to make another trip to Home Depot to see if they have any of those drill press stands that hold a hand drill (I live in an apartment and don't have access to either a drill press or shop where I could borrow one).

Joe, Thank you for the info. Can I ask what size drill bit do you use and while I've got your ear, can I also ask what size spring bar you use in the enlarged lug holes and where you purchase the spring bars from?

I was about to begin modding the crown guards (enlarge the lug holes and reshape the guards) on the very nice vintage DRSD I got from Andrew at TrustyTime when I ran into a couple of snags: 1. None of the sockets in the Rolex caseback removal tool set from TheWatchPrince.com fit the splines on the DRSD's caseback. The largest of the six sockets, the No.5 socket labeled "29.50", is the closest but it doesn't seat all the way home and, so, I'm afraid that if I apply any pressure and turn it, it'll slip and strip the splines on the caseback. Is there a trick to this or is there a 7th socket for this model that doesn't come with the standard caseback removal set? 2. I've read a (large) number of postings over the course of the past couple of weeks describing how others have successfully drilled out the lug holes on vintage Subs and Sea-Dwellers, but I'm kind of confused as to the correct drill size and whether the drilling operation can be performed with a good Black & Decker hand drill and titanium drill bits (made for drilling metal), or whether I need a drill press? If the latter (I need a drill press), does anyone know if I can use one of the relatively inexpensive gizmos that Home Depot sells that allows you to mount a standard hand drill into its frame and then use it like a drill press? Has anyone had good success with one of these (presuming the hand drill by itself won't cut it)?

After spending days searching through the forums (all), I've been unable to find out where people are seeing and buying these "MBW" Rolex reps from?! Can anyone direct me to a specific posting (or forum)? I've been collecting reps for more than 20 years and I wish I'd found this site 20 years ago. My hat's off to the founder(s). A very useful resource!