freddy333

Your watch's loose fit is probably the problem. It allows the watch to slide up your wrist, bringing the crown into contact with the bones in the back of your hand when you bend it (your wrist, not the crown). I'm not sure that modifying the surface of the crown is the best move. Instead, you might either try wearing your watch further up your arm and with a tighter grip (so it can't travel down to your wrist), or try spinning it around 180 degrees and wearing it on the inside of your wrist. That way, since the bones are further away from the inside of your wrist, the crown probably won't bother it as much. Or, if you are into Botox..

Anyone know of a source for accurate Comex rep non-date Sub dials? Specifically, I'm looking for a dial that has the following: 1. The word 'ROLEX' properly centered below the coronet (this is off-center on most dials). 2. The 3, 6, & 9 hour index markers properly sized (these are too narrow on most dials). 3. Good overall printing quality (the only rep dial I've seen so far that got the first two items right, had very poor printing quality -- it looked almost like the lettering was written by hand, with a leaky pen!!!).

Is this what you are looking for: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...atewheeloverlay

Does anyone know of a source for accurate rep dials for the 5512/5513 Comex non-date Sub? Of the couple I purchased on the 'bay or that originally came in rep watches, either the 3, 6 & 9 hour markers are too narrow or the printing quality is poor (even when viewed without a loupe) or the 'L' in ROLEX isn't centered correctly under the coronet.

Thanks NRG. I tried winding (actually re-winding) my present spring by hand and [censored]'d it all up. I did this once before with a proper winder, several years ago on a Bulova watch, and it went like clockwork (no pun intended). I have about 3 Rolex rep watches right now, each with a different ETA, that need new springs. So I think I should probably locate the proper winder or winders since I will probably need to do this again sometime in the future.

PM sent.

Is there a generic mainspring winder for ETA movements or does each ETA movement require a special winder? Specifically, I need to replace the mainspring in an ETA 2846 and need to purchase a winder (and mainspring). I didn't see a winder for the 2846 listed on ofrei (the only one listed is for a 2892). I guess I should probably also ask if anyone knows which mainspring I need for the 2846 since ofrei doesn't to list their mainsprings by movement brand and model. Is there a table or guide online that lists this info?

Kudos Rob! As usual, top notch and very informative!

Is there an ETA-based MBW 5513 Comex non-date Sub with non-riveted Oyster bracelet available and can anyone post front, back and (crown) side photos? That is the one I would be interested in. I didn't see this model listed in Watchmaster's catalog. TIA

Pugwash: I think that if/when someone can post a photo catalog showing all of the available models, you'll be deafened by the noise. The lack of visual options is all that's holding me back (for now).

I'm really surprised someone doesn't have a complete online photo catalogue of MBWs. Watchmaster had photos in his catalog, but I seem to remember someone saying that his aren't actually MBWs. Anyone know?

Great photos, Pugwash! I've got an MBW 1665 (with red paint) and it's a beauty (made all the more beautiful with mods). But you can't place an order for something (a MBW Comex 5513/5514) that you have never seen (or may not even exist)...

If the final product really is an exact match with the gen Rolex Sub case, I would definitely purchase (at least) one. And if you can produce a second (larger) case to match a vintage Sea-Dweller, I would definitely purchase one of those as well. Edit: I posted this before reading the entire thread (including Ziggy's background info on the original poster's history).

BMWrolex (or TTK): I would have PM'd you, but there is a problem with the message system (I am getting an 'IPS Driver Error' that references a '2003' error and problem connecting to the MySQL server). I am interested in a Comex non-date Sub. 5513, 5514, etc. Do you know if these are available as MBW and is there a photoset or online catalogue of all the available MBW models (I am sure others will be asking for this as well)?

Randy, I have to take a bit of exception with your premise and add that I think one's ability to credibly pull off a 'rare' (SS Rolex) rep is in direct proportion to: 1. the audience/viewer's knowledge and experience level. Joe Q. Taxpayer and 99% of his fellow taxpayers (even most who own gen Rolexes) wouldn't know a DRSD from a standard issue Sub (though a small number of average Rolex owners can generally spot the difference between a vintage acrylic crystal and modern sapphire crystal and other fairly salient feature differences); 2. the context in which the watch is worn. Seeing a rare Rolex watch on the soiled arm of a Spanish-speaking landscape technician in a McDonald's or on a guy queuing in the local grocers with a fistful of dole coupons would be a hard-sell, to say the least. But I don't think the same watch poking out from beneath the cashmere sleeve of an obviously well-to-do patron dining in an upscale restaurant would raise any suspicion at all; and 3. the quality of the rep. I'd challenge all but the most hyper-critical Rolex WIS to out a well-modded MBW or one of your marvelous Daytona creations if worn with appropriate dress and in the right environment. My experience has always been that the vast majority of people you come across during the course of an average day will recognize only one thing: the ROLEX name or design (if a Sub/SD and, possibly, Daytona). After that, the game's yours to lose. If you look like you belong with a Rolex, you act like you can afford a Rolex, then noone will be the wiser. On the other side of the coin, the sad thing is that since few people can see beyond (or are knowledgeable enough to appreciate) the various models, noone will appreciate the rarity or simulated value of your watch either. To the guy in the street, A Rolex is a Rolex is a Rolex is a Rolex. The worst thing I've heard in reaction to the (modded MBW) DRSD I often wear came from a friend who's family used to own a chain of rather well-known jewelry stores; and his comment was "Oh, you couldn't afford a real (gold) Rolex?!" And that, truly, is the worst I've ever heard.

It's difficult to be specific without a photo or knowing which quartz movement you're working with. But I just finished swapping crowns on a friend's quartz watch and one of the screws near the stem hole was a set-screw for the stem. It may not be obvious (or marked), but if you can post a photo I or someone may be able to give you more info.

As Ubi said, technically speaking, it really doesn't matter which direction the crown faces relative to the crystal (the gen watches left the factory with no particular crown orientation). The crown is similar to a screw that screws into a threaded hole (i.e., the crown tube [a "nut"]). Depending on a number of factors (e.g., the number and condition of the threads in both the crown and crown tube, the depth (into the case) of the crown tube, the crown tube's orientation as it was screwed into the case, the tightness of the crown, etc.), the coronet relief on the face of the crown can end up facing virtually any direction. I suppose if you're really critical like avitt (and others), you could spend the time (and money) to locate the best crown/crown tube combo and then use epoxy or some other type of permanent cement to locate the crown tube into the case so that the crown, when screwed-down, points in a particular direction. Though, as the inner seals and crown/crown tube threads seat and wear, the orientation is likely to change over time. And this would necessitate that you begin the entire reorientation process all over again. The problem I've found (when retrofitting a used gen crown to a new or used crown tube) is getting a crown that screws-down evenly. Not too long ago, I purchased a baker's dozen used (excellent-to-near-mint condition) gen triplock crowns and, of the lot, there were only three that appeared (by eye) to screw evenly down onto the stem. Most of the bunch appeared to "wobble" a bit as you spun the stem/crown combo and watched the assembly's orientation from the side. Having that kind of inaccuracy does bother me and was worth the extra time (and expense) to correct for.

The font may have something to do with it too. But if you compare the height of the date window to the minute markers adjacent to the date window the gens look taller. There also seems to be more white space above and below the date on the gens.

Sherrington: If someone could figure out how to enlarge the date window (I've yet to see any rep with a correctly-sized date window), it would be a perfect match. Great work!

Well done. If I were wearing a hat, it would be tipped in your direction.

Wonders never cease... This afternoon, while I was dining out with friends, a gentleman, who identified himself as a watch collector, offered to buy my (still uncompleted) Newman Daytona project watch: Knowing it's a rep, I obviously couldn't sell (or allow him to give it a proper appraisal), but it did the heart good to know I'm on the right track.

I'm still working to perfect a dial luming technique (using the point of a pin), but I've found that a toothpick works great for luming hands. Remove ALL of the existing lume by gently scraping the rear of the hand with a toothpick or soft wood stick. Just to be sure, I also soak the (unpainted) hands in pure ammonia for 15 minutes to get them absolutely clean. Then reapply the lume (to the back of the hand) in multiple thin coats (3 or 4) using the side of the toothpick. With a thin coat of lume on the toothpick, I lay the toothpick, sideways, across the back of the hand so the toothpick bridges the two edges/sides of the hand and then slowly drag the toothpick from one end of the hand to the other (e.g., top-to-bottom). Do this a few times, slowly, until the paint forms a "skin" that fills the empty void in the center. Let it dry for several minutes and apply the next coat in the same manner. Once you're happy with the result, you may need to clean the edge(s) of the hand with a clean toothpick (if some of the lume paint migrated around the side). But, from the front, the hand should appear perfect. It's amazingly easy and I've done this on 6 or 7 sets of hands so far, including one very tiny set from a quartz watch and all came out perfect after only a few minutes of work (most of the time was spent waiting for each coat to dry). It just occurred to me to add that you shouldn't be tempted to overapply the lume (in an attempt to try to make it glow brighter) as this could cause the hand to come into contact with the dial or another hand.

lionsandtigers: Not "crummy" at all. At least I don't think so. Excepting the datewheel font (which will only be an issue for a handful of hard-core Rolex fans), I think the project looks spectacular! The CGs, especially, are dead-on, which, even from across a room, is one of the two obvious give-aways (the other being a flat crystal) on most replicas. The only other thing you might consider is slightly beveling (filing) the squarish edges of the case as alot of older SDs seem to be more rounded (due to repeated Rolex servicings?). Otherwise, once you get the crown/tube reinstalled (and swap datewheels), I think most people would think it's gen.

There may be some models or model variations that have a different HE valve fitted (like your MBW DRSD). (I just received a WM DRSD, which I have not opened yet -- I will update if the HE in this one is not removable.) But I have so far completed this mod on two watches -- a Trusty DRSD and a 5512 COMEX Sub similar to the one that is currently offered by Trusty. As for the gen HE -- As is typical for Rolex, there certainly may be variations in the construction of the valves they employed, especially in the early versions made specially for COMEX. I generally use Antiquorum as a guide since all of the watches are thoroughly authenticated prior to being listed for auction. When I checked Antiquorum to research this prior to beginning the first mod, both the COMEX Sub and DRSD listed displayed the dark, flat matte valve (which is what I used as a guide for the mod). Also, around that time, there was a thread on TZ discussing whether or not it is safe to have Rolex overhaul vintage watches and one of the more seasoned regulars warned that it was routine, at least in the case of the London RSC, for Rolex to polish parts that may have originally had a matte finish. He did not specifically cite the HE valve, but considering its location and the time and difficulty required to properly mask it off, it seemed to me that Rolex probably buffs these to a shine when a watch is overhauled. On the other hand, just now I found another COMEX 5513 that does appear to have a shiny valve (though it still looks flat as opposed to the convex shape on most rep valves). So there may very well be some variance in the valves (or this is proof that RSC polishes them!).

Brilliant! I'll give that a try. Just in case, do you have an opinion on whether Super-Luminova "green" would be a good backup option (as oppsed to "white" or standard luminova)?