panerai153

Damn, I had added a Tudor date with a non date crystal in the same line as the 7928 and then erased it, only one guess per post!! LOL

I do like that one. I have to admit mine with the T-125 really sticks up a good bit. Only problem as my eyes get worse, it is nice to have the date magnified.

My work laptop has the black screen and the drop down box issue, yet my home laptop is perfect.

Same here, computer at work has the problem, mine at home doesn't. Work is running Windows XP and I believe the latest Internet explorer. At home Windows 7 and the latest IE. i shut down everything, cleared all the old passwords browser history, temp files etc. and it still comes back with the locked drop down and the black screen.

Nanug is correct. If you're looking for a dive watch, there are tons of really nice vintage and "Semi-Vintage" watches on Ebay. Almost all have good quality ETA movements, ansd are excellent for everyday beaters.

search vintage dive watch and see what you find.

Tudor Rose 7928

I believe that you have the right idea, and certainly what you plan is feasible and realistic for the PT SD. As alligoat said, build it as a beater, wear the hell out of it and if you really, really like it but wannt something better, find an old MBW case or complete watch and go from there. you can make it as good as you want or as much as your budget will allow.

Good luck

I feel sure a genuine will fit an MBW, can't comment on a PT version. You better take your heart meds before you go looking for a genuine!! There is one on the Vintage Rolex Forum right now, I believe the owner is asking 3950.00 USD for it.I don't know if you want to go that far. One of the problems I See with building a super franken, with lots and lots of genuine parts, is the cost gets away from you and at some point you realize you have 4K+ in a REP!! Of course if you bought the genuine caseback you would have more like 7-8K in your watch.

Here is the problem. You get all excited about building a super watch, throw caution to the winds and suddenly you have a LOT more money tied up in this watch than you ever dreamed possible. Now you have two alternatives. One if it's finished you try to sell it. Good Luck!! Follow the sales threads and see how many of the Super Frankens actually sell for anywhere near what the owner has invested, damn few. Your next alternative is to break the watch back up and part it out. I know it breaks your heart to see all that work down the drain, but you will probably get more for it. This is a case of "the sum of the parts is greater than the whole".

My only advice would be to take it slow and make sure what you want is really what you want. Don't fall into the teenage trap, It's easy to mistake lust for love!!

That is some good info, guys.I only wish I'd read it sooner and looked/asked around a bit on the bracelet topic.

I've moved forward with gen modding my pair of BK WM9 v2's.

While the bracelets seems pretty good to me, I wanted better and wasn't aware there WAS any available rep bracelet that was.

So I may have goofed in going for the gen 93150/501B bracelet.

Where am I to find a better rep bracelet??

The v2's have the 93250 and numbered only on the clasp and on the ends of the bracelet end links.

Didn't know anyone even made a rep 93150 with 501B end links.

The 93250 is correct for the WM9/BK v2-v3's. they take a solid end link (SEL) bracelet which is the 93250. The older vintage Rolexes take the 93150 with the hollow end link (Springbar holds the end link on the bracelet)

Several rep manufacturers make 93150's as evidence from the posts above. Most it seems are pretty poor. I've had a couple and one problem is they never seem to come with the proper numbered end links (580 for 1680, 585 for 1665). Another problem is most have small openings in the bracelet end link and genuine springbar's are too big.

I remember "redbigjoe" and the whole mess you had with him...wonder what ever happened to him. Didn't he also take some shots at The Zigmeister?? I might have the bracelet you seek...I'll check my parts box tonight...if I got it I'll pm you tomorrow.

I still have a ton of photos of that watch!! i was looking at old SD photos a day or two ago and ran across them.

RBJ is probably long gone. Like most folks who start off with a bang and fizzle. I believe he messed up quite a few watches for folks on the old TRC and probably the original RWG as well. It seems like after he had his battle with The Zigmeister, even the few folks who were taking up for him bailed out! I believe he was one of the first members of Repgeek or RWI, Can't remember. I did a member search on both those forums and he isn't on either, so either he's gone or he's changed his name.At least on here, he is gone and forgotten!!!

If you have a 93150 to sell, I will certainly take it off your hands.

Thanks

Hopefully Sellita will produce a replacement to the 2893-2. I would like to see a robust purpose made Swiss GMT movement available for rep GMT's.

I have a Sellita movement in my Ocean7 LM7 and it has been flawless for around 2 years now.

If it's just the strap, i would send the strap back, not the watch. Why risk customs twice more? If it's a clasp problem, possibly he (the dealer) could send you a new clasp.

Get used to this problem. As has been discussed "ad nauseam" on this and other Rep forums, the reps have no quality control. The folks assembling the watches and accessories are for the most part low paid non technical workers. they are NOT Swiss watchmakers.

Any idea why I can't send PMs?

You can also right click on the icon below the members avatar the top choice in the drop down box is "Open link" click on that Pm will open up to send a PM

Freddy,

You are absolutely right. I can say I'm probably one of just a few on this forum that saw them on the first Ed Sullivan show back in 1964! I was in college then and everyone in our dorm turned out to watch them. Little did we know at the time that they were the birth of a new era in music.

I could have sworn I saw a post about this a few days ago, but I tried to find it, and it's eluding me. I'm putting together a MBW DRSD 1665 that came to me without a bracelet. Once I get all the mods done, it's going to need a bracelet. I would Love to find a 9315 but I don't think they exist in a rep? Years ago I had a really nice MBW 1665 that resided on a genuine Rolex Rivet bracelet. unfortunately, it and the bracelet are both long gone.Some of you older members from TRC might remember this was a watch I sent to a guy in North Carolina Joe butts (redbigjoe) who totally screwed it up, sent it to The Zigmeister who got it all back together and did a wonderful job.

A

Much better!!

I tried to build one of the Nalgene bottle pressure testers. I got the bottle airtight with the auto tire valve installed. My problem was the "el cheapo" tire pump i bought was too flimsy to work well. i ended up buying a real tester from offshore" According to the instructions, they recommend 3 atmos (this is supposedly what the watch repair shops offer) my tester will go up to 6+ atmos, however they warn that repeated frequent use at those pressures will result in premature component failure.

After testing all my watches, i have come to this conclusion: DON'T trust what the dealers say about water resistance. Their's is just a sales spiel.

I have a post in another thread with the watches, sellers and results, however I will say about 50-60% of mine failed. Both of my PAM's (failed around crown/stem seals), a couple of my Rolex reps failed, both of them were around the crystal, and all my WM9/BK and MBW reps passed.My WM9 16610 V3 sub passed 6 atmos.

No matter what the recommendations are, I believe that if your watch is WR to 3 atmos, you can wash dishes and wash your hands OK, at 5 atmos WR I would feel safe swimming in a pool. For diving, snorkeling and water under pressure, I wouldn't trust anything less than probably 50 atmos, although the chart in the link says 20.

One of the problems with testing for extreme depths is the cost of the tester. Your average watch shop may have a Bergeron or equivalent that goes to 6-10 atmos. but when you need to test for 50-100 and above, you are looking at a very expensive piece of equipment, usually only found at big repair facilities and watch manufacturers.I feel certain all the RSC's have high pressure testers, but unfortunately, they aren't available to us!!

http://jewelryandwatch.com/index1.html

Tanks very much Pete, i was able to get on thru your link.

I better start using the spell checker!!

I donm't know what the problem is, am I typing it correctly? www.jewelryandwatch.com Could one of you fellows send me a link?

Lasrt evening, San Cristobal De La Habana "La Punta" 5 1/2 inches pyramid. Been in the humidor "resting" for about 6 months. Great smoke. Mid bodied, not too strong, but lots of flavor.

Brightest of mine thus far is my Ocean7 LM-7

Next in line my MKII Stingray

What's so nice is both of these have acrylic bezels with lumed numbers/markers

I've been trying for two days to acces Jewelryandwatch.com's website. It obviously is down (At least to my computer) Has anyone here gotten on recently, or knows what's gong on with them?

My old standby: 1680

Nearly. Read this

SLRs generally do much better in low light/darkness than a point-&-shoot, which is all I had with me that night.

But, in general, to compensate for the lack of light, you increase the camera's ISO (light sensitivity), which I set to 400 (as always, you should practice before taking The Picture so you can balance better light sensitivity vs grain (increased grain is a side-effect of increased ISO)) &/or use a flash. For 'The Beatles', I was too close to use a flash without blinding the group, so I just boosted the ISO & then processed as much of the grain out as I could in my image editor.

One of the performances on our cruise a couple of weeks ago was a group called "Beetlemania" they were really good, the only one that didn't look the part was "Ringo" who was about 100 pounds heavier than the real Ringo. They packed the theatre and had folks dancing in the isles!!

And finally you have it.......congratulations, I admired your persistence and hunger for knowledge in doing your homework on this piece!

Got to say the pictures have just about crashed my computer!

You know what you want to do and what you need to do. Take your time, do it step by step and enjoy the journey. For me modding the crown guards and fitting a gen 703 crown is a must start. Swap out the crystal also. These make a very real visual difference and do not cost too much.

The opinion polls will always be swayed both ways by the pro 'so called MBK/MBW' supporters and the 'so called PT' supporters. Either way, regardless of what you fit and change, they will BOTH be replica watches, capable of giving you pleasure and fooling 'both nobody and everybody'.

At least the $200 saved over a 'MBK', will fund a lot of what you wish to do.

Looking forward to seeing how it all unfolds and develops............and if you find any rep 585 end links, please order me two sets!

I have never seen an inser line up problem like that before............

I have to agree with just about everyone, it's pretty irritating to have all these "supersized" photos take so long to load. Better to get yourself a free Photobucket account and download your photos to photobucket first. Ot use Photoshop elements or a similar program to downsize to a reasonable size.

OK, about the watch! comparing to an MBK, you gain some and you lose some. As you said the price is about 200.00 USD more.

Some of the pluses with the PT are:

200.00 price difference

movement is a 2846 (slow beat) so you don't need to make a movement swap.

Date wheel is more correct

Pretty decent bracelet and endlinks (585's are scarce and expensive for genuine)

Pluses for the MBK

much better crown

better dial

better crystal

better caseback

And at least with the older model MBW's, parts interchangable with genuine

I believe that the PT is a pretty nice watch, especially for the price. It is a great watch for someone who isn't sure about vintage watches, or wants a nice watch that with a minimum of mods is a pretty accurate rep.

I think you have a very sound plan, take things one step at a time and evaluate the results. You certainly have done a good job of researching the 1665's, abnd that will be valuable information down the line.

Freddy-

Am I looking at the Beatles in that picture?

I think the night picture concept is a good one except that I don't know how to take a night picture. Hey, we might get some exciting night club pictures out of this though.

Night shots, especially wrist shots are pretty hard. If you use flash, with the dark background (Streets, countryside, etc.) the flash is going to wash out all the watch details. If you don't use flash, your exposure time is going to be so long the results will generally be blurry. Ideal situation would be in and area where there is enough light on the watch to get short exposure times and not too much that the action in the background is still fairly sharp (like Freddy's "Beetles" shot!

Here is mine. Cruise vacation, shot from the ship as we were leaving Curacao. Pretty crappy shot actually. I should have tried this one about 15-30 minutes earlier. Night falls fast in the tropics! What was weird, was the funny contrast on my arm. looks like it is streaked with dirt. It's really clean, just the camera/light combo.

I took my MBW Rolex 1680 on this trip, and I was very happy with my selection. It's waterproof enough that I didn't worry about getting it wet, and like all the vintage "plexi's" it's light and comfortable.

Congratulations, Now you're hooked on plexi!! Certainly the White dial is less likely to raise eyebrows than the DRSD. Although when you get out of WIS territory, most people can't tell the difference between a SD and a datejust, they just see Rolex.

You are right with most of the mods you need to do to make yours better. Two things I would suggest, a genuine Crown (the PT crown is too big and is a pretty obvious "Tell") Some say the PT tube will work with a genuine crown, but I think either a genuine or a good aftermarket tube would be in order as well. The second thing would be a movement service. The 2846 movements are old and even if NOS,they have been on the shelf for years. No telling where PT 's factory is sourcing the movements. Possibly from old watches they are cannabalizing for the movements, but either way the movement is probably dry and dirty. A good service will insure years of trouble free use.

Wear it well, you're hooked now my friend