Devedander

I have read your basics but must have missed the part where you describe how free the rotor should be...

And this may seem silly but does the "Swiss Made" stamped on the rotor reeally mean anything? Or do our Asian finished ETAs also feature Swiss made stamped on them?

So I cracked open one of my asian auto watches to peek inside and lube the o-ring and noticed the rotor spins very freely... as in if I tip the watch 180 degrees and snap it back to flat on it's face the rotor may spin up to 3 or 4 times...

But then I was messing around in my Ingy taking some pictures and greasing it up and noticed the roter is much more stiff on it... it will usually fall to the bottom of the watch on it's own, but I haven't been able to get it to swing all the way around more than once on it's own... this seems odd as I would think the better movement would be the one to spin more revolutions etc...

Is there some standard for how stiff these are or is it determined by the type of movement how freely it rotates....

Hehe... well I don't have a NATO strap (not even good at changing straps yet) but the movement holder seems to be good stuff... I am under the impression nylon can't scratch anthing on a watch right?

It would be hilarious to find somehow to prove the breitling was fake...

I was wondering about the details about a coaxial escapement and found this page which shows some interesting animations of different escapement types

http://www.geocities.com/mvhw/escapement.html

Thanks The Zigmeister! it's always hard for me in those situations where theoretically both have some advantage!

Got a movement holder from birdman so hopefully that and a metal caseback tool will get me into my Rolexes so I can... well... see the inside

BTW out of curiousity are metal tools usually made of aluminum or steel?

As far as I can recall only a few breitlings are coated on both sides...

Tag has some quartz watches that I believe are very accurately reproduced...

Interesting! On my noobmariner I found that if you push in from both ends of the bracelet it releases the extension pretty regularly, but this looks like it's obviously the better way... now when I get home I have to check if the noob has the circle...

It seems Rolex caseback tools come in both nylon and metal... I was wondering if there is a concensous as to which one is better... it seems nylon would run less chance of scratching things, but might bet stripped easily and not be as tough overall. Metal ones seem like they would be more durable but might run the risk of scratching stuff up if you slip...

So what do you guys go for?

Actually there is nothing wrong with the watches, I think the problem is best summed up by saying....

Not that theres anything wrong with that of course

Ken

But seriously... there rule is, if you have to ask...

Not that there is anything wrong with it!

Hacking signal refers to the ability of the watch to freeze the second hand while the time is being set. This allows you to set the time more accurately.

With no hacking signal the second hand ticks all the time making it very hard to sync up with your time source.

My buddy at work was giving me flack about blowing money on reps (in my line of work a $200 is NOT CHEAP) and asked me why... I told him it was a passing fancy (it was true at the time) and it wasn't like it was going to be a hobby of mine where I get all into and make a workbench...

Yeah...

I now have a full basic set of tools and need to empty one of my RC car tool tackle boxes to make room for parts and tools now... seriously... I need to take up crack... less addicting...

Like it so much I decided to take some snapshots... certainly no pugwash, no lightbox and shot with my bad camera but what the heck... BTW if it's not obvious HEAVY post processing...

..you are quite welcome...Glad you got your satisfaction...

Yes I am satisfied... so satisfied I am checking the time every few minutes... for about 30 seconds at a time!

Got my replacement Ingy from Silix yesterday.... GORGEOUS!!!

Still 1 or two super tiny paint chips but they are all but invisible and not worth noticing...

But besides that the watch is unbelievable... super heavy and smooth... all the links move smoothly and freely and the feeling of the band on the wrist is super smooth and sleek.

Big thanks the RT for setting this up and Silix for comming through!

Got my first scratch on a rep today... it sucked...

Wearing my Orange PO at work (just got it yesterday) and was digging around under a desk unplugging some stuff... I grab a cable and a 3 prong plug jumps up to my arm then drags itself right over the face of my watch... I totally feel it grinding over the bezel surface, then the super smooth glide over the saphire... it was almost like a slow motion shot in a movie, I swear I could feel every molecule of orange being removed from my insert.

After a quick flinch and holding a curse in I look down and there it is a scratch right across the orange next to the 30, a small ding on near it and even a tiny ding in the SS bezel...

On the plus side the crystal heald up like a champ (yesterday it took a nasty grind across some dryway right on the top of the dome..l took some drywall off... crystal polished right back to perfect...)

It had to happen but it sucks on day 2 (day one of wearing it)...

I guess I better get used to it... I work with a lot of sharp metal and edged items and my watches just aren't gonna get to live their lives out in a box, that's not for me...

Still sucks though... dontcha hate that first scratch?

Alright, I just thought someone who names himself Submariner and is a member here for well more than half a year should know, and I therefore thought you were making some kind of joke

And btw. Daytonas do not have DAYONA24 engraving on the back and do not come with a rotating bezel (right, ttk? )

Rotating bezel? I never saw one with a rotating bezel and I have seen some cheapos...

I would totally take you up on your Ingy... accept mine is wrapped around my wrist at the moment!

Out of curiousity, how does that alarm work?

I hear pen erasers work well...

Hmmm... that's a good idea... I haven't worked with JB weld since my RC car days but it might just be strong enough to pull it off... wonder how it will hold up to the sheering and torque... worth a try I suppose...

Thanks for the suggestion!

I got my PO out and took a look at what yoiu are pointing at. I saw a very poor excuse for a ridge that interlocks with the groove and I am surprised mine works at all. Based on a few bracelets I have worked on, it does not take much movement to actually make soemthing work but it takes a whole lot of effort to get it to move.

Sorry I can not help.

Usil

Yes, I wish this ridge was the opposite, poorly cut and so TOO BIG, that I could just file down until it works, this one is harder since I can't add material... I may just end up asking Silix if I can purchase a new clasp part for a bracelet or something, although I am wondering if they are just all like this...

Dont know if this would work, but what about gently squeezing together

the opposite end

where the clasp meets the bracelet.

should give the same result

I had thought about that, but if you notice the part I would squeeze is not a single piece, it is two bars that have a pin riveted through them on the non clasp end (the center of the estension) I think if I squeeze these it will just bend the pin, not the thick metal parts and result in a stiff or impobil, possibly non fitting extesntion and since it's riveted I can't replace this pin if it gets bent...

I appreciate the suggestion though!

I think I see what needs to change but I can't make it change...

If you look at this picture the black circle shows the teeth that are supposed to catch for the divers extention to lock shut (as you can see they are not very pronounced) and in order to make them grab better I would want to seperate the clasp in the direction shown by the black arrows... but I can't get the pin that the red arrow points to out... I damn near broke my pin pusher and hammered away for a good 5 minutes and NADA... that thing must be welded in or something....

I went at the clasp with a flathead screwdriver where it is, but I can't get enough room to move to make the clasp stay wider open (in the direction of the black arrows) while it's still stuck in the half link...

Heh... well I would rather not resort to that as it's nice having the extention (although like you I will probably never use it - it would be nice not to ahve to say "oh that piece, yeah it doesn't work so I glued it down).

Just to clear it up here is a quick video of how easily it pops open

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Dev...nt=DSCN0412.flv

To be fair that's actually more than it usually holds on it's own... I only have to shake it because holding it one handed puts it in a position where just the leverage of the half link against the clasp at the corner keeps it from falling open, the little catches or teeth that should hold it literally do nothing...