cls

I take that back. There is a small flat area at the bottom between the lugs.

Looking at my gen 111K now.... No indent.

I am going to buy one of these movements soon, I can measure or even send you the wheels if that helps. PM me if you like.

And some that are called functioning break off as soon as they are turned.

Doesn't look OEM. FWIW, there is a '09 strap list on paneristi.com

There was a Jimmy Fu CG. I have one.

A hand remover to remove. A hand setter to replace. Maybe some rodico to get them in place.

I always found the 3M pads aren't quite right. There is a satin finish bar at materials suppliers that is much better. Try Jules Borel, please don't use Bob Frei.

Relatively easy if you're comfortable removing the movement, you probably pushed in the set lever. The lever and clutch can be manually reset and the stem reinserted. Loosen the set screw a bit more and when inserting the stem try giving it a back and forth twist until it goes in without resistance.

Thanks.

Not seeing any dials on a view of sellers other items, or doing a search on Panerai Dial.

he has dials on eBay or you contacted him?

As a former amateur watchmaker and having serviced many movements, it's not as simple as you're making it. Watchmaking requires great knowledge and great skill. It can be years before you are comfortable disassembling a 7750 and are confident you know where all the parts go. If you don't believe me, try taking a three month course and then re-stud a hairspring. While there are many fine watchmakers out there (and The Zigmeister is one,) don't belittle the time and effort it takes to become accomplished. It's a bit like taking a CD ROM course on surgery and then wanting to work as a doctor.

What? Not sure where you take your watch for service...

My first trip to Italy (pre-vendome days) someone showed me a watch shop in Milan that was selling a used really big watch. It turned out to be an A series Luminor and I couldn't believe they would ask the equivalent of almost $3000 in Lire. I also thought it was way too big and no one would ever wear such a gimmicky watch. Oops...

Definitely in.

I am talking about the font. Anyone have the correct A's? Davidsen has the A's right, but the font weight varies from too heavy to way too heavy and his spacing seems to be done by hand at times. Are there any other options? Has anyone had any luck getting someone to reprint a dial?

If you're thinking of bidding, don't. (Just a guess...) BTW, the "official" eBay policy is if you can't verify authenticity, it can't be listed. The scam sellers add a comment after the listing because eBay doesn't check the information seller added later.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=270152269637 Have a hard time believing anyone is selling a gen 1950 and still says, "I can't guarantee it is authentic because, i don't have the paper work. I'm not into mechanical watches but looks real to me. I received as a gift "

And what about "Watch is GUARANTEED to be AS DESCRIBED"

You can use sandpaper, or a scotchbrite, but both are very flexible and give an uneven result. The Garyflex bar is much easier to use and is a rubberized bar with some stiffness which will give you a more even finish. BTW, for polishing don't use rubbing or polishing compound, you will be at it forever. Buy a jewelers rouge. The come in red and green but I have always used only the green. Rouge is what the professionals use along with a high speed bench grinder with multiple polishing wheels. Unless you know what you're doing though, a bench grinder may be a bit much, you can easily send a watch case flying across the room at 100+ mph

What are we looking at? They both look good, but the watch on the left seems to have a better dial font. In my searching, only the Davidsen watches have the correct A. What are flaws unique to Davidsen?

It's nice to see the gens occasionally and get some new perspective on the details. I had them show me a 111 , and a 005 , and took some time browsing at the displays. A few impressions: The dial fonts are not the same from model to model or dial to dial. The font is basically the same (the A does vary a bit,) but the spacing, the weight, and especially the size varies quite a bit. The new crown guard with the roller is SMOOTH. The lever is not floppy, but it's not tight either. The watch can be easily wound with the cg lever closed. The crowns are frequently not so thick. I think the idea that the crowns have to be extra thick comes from the canal street reps of a few years ago and this has been long ago fixed with any quality rep. The crowns are, however, perfectly machined. There is almost no bevel on the edges and they are very sharp and clean. The fonts on the movements are generally smaller than on the rep, and much cleaner. Overall, the watch has a very high level of finish and although not everything is discernable at first glance, they just feel more polished. But hey, they have to justify the extra $4k or so somehow.

Any way to change the 112 dial feet position to turn the dial around and make a 219?

Have a white dial vintage rolex chronograph and wanted to make the dial more "vintage" So, for all who are wondering, the cigar smoke in the box trick doesn't work. Anybody have other tips on making a white dial look old? The cigar was good though.