Finepics

Hey guys, as with the Power reserve models these are still on the go and once the 7753's are out of the way we will be on our way to greater heights!!!

Just a little bump to let you know this is not dead. The wheels have been purchased and are with the printers but we are awaiting the results of the latest attempt to get the 7753 wheels sorted before we proceed with these. I am still hoping that they will be available before 2010 or Armageddon (whichever is the soonest!!!).

They may not be being ripped off - some of us will know what I mean!!

How about that - I don't think it's 80' to live in Sloane street these days. It just means you gotta be fukkin loaded - Admin I can come and clean for you in my lunch breaks!!

The way to fix it is to drill a hole in the top of the gear in fit a new pinion in it. But this is a very difficult and skilled operation as the dimensions here are minute and it would not be cheap!! It could be your lucky day as I have a spare - what's it worth to you bearing in mind that I would normally have kept this for the very reason you need it!!! PM me.

And he has the gall to charge £8 postage - real cost about £2!!

Just to point out that the H series gen watches shown here have the new type (old type!!!) CG - this is the same as the Pre-A type CG's only brushed. For the G and very early H series PAM's the standard CG is fine. Did not realise about the casebacks - very interesting as I've never noticed that before.

I understand of course. Actually I did a nut and bolt restoration on bothen MGB Roadster and a Triumph Stag some years ago - both were driven every day rain or shine!!! As I have said my main concern is with the PAM reps which have a relatively simple construction and by ensuring a swiss movt and sapphire glass at least gives me the same reassurance that a gen would.

Thanks for that - should have been obvious!! Send me that email addy would you - it looks very nice in that check pattern.

Fookin ell!!!!! Again I have to challenge your assessment. I will not speak for Rolxes or other reps but I again have to say that PAM reps are almost identical to the real thing. The case and case parts are made in exactly the same way as the gens - just milled in CNC machines. All the O rings are commonly available to the watchmaking industry - in fact I would not be suprised if Chinese companies supply some of the parts like O rings etc to the Swiss watch industry. If I were to drop a rep PAM and a Gen they would likely suffer the same fate after all they have the same movement, the same size dial and other components and the movts are secured into the case in the exact same way. Once they have been tweaked where necessary the only difference between the rep and gen (apart from a couple of cosmetic issues) is a wooden box, papers and about £1850!!! As Kruzer said my biggest concern would be getting the leather straps wet as they are certainly no waterproof (except Metta leather!!). Just how far down are you intending to take them? best advice for you would be to only wear them on a sunny day if it concerns yoiu that much!! PS - I think TJGladeRaider's post kinda says it all!!!

Do not buy the PVD version as it is not a real PVD coating. The hobnail dial is only found in the PVD PAM 28. If you want PVD finish then buy the hobnail dial in the polished case then have me or someone PVD coat it for you. If you want the polished case PAM 27 make sure it has the plain dial - these are very accurate reps so long as you stick to these rules.

Wow V they are nice. What do you mean when you say Calvin Klein and Prada straps? Who makes them?

Thanks buddy - I appreciate it.

I second that one - Hey V I hope I have not upset you as well, I seem to be upsetting everyone just lately!!

David, Rob will make this with your buckle to order. He will not be supplying the leather on it's own as it's not cost effective for him (this is his living - not a hobby) so Aarons making these for me and V was purely a one off.

Hear hear Rob - I have to add that whilst some may find the price a little beyond them it is no more than you'd pay for a Strapmasters, Dirk or Mario Paci and quite honestly they are no better made. I know what I'd rather have (and I have!!!)

I agree the weak dollar does not help. Also you have to consider how you will finsh them as they will come out with a very sharp edge. This is how they look when I get them back: I am a dental technician so am used to working with plastics and have the equipment to finish them off. @chris5264 - reply on the way

Well I havn't actually got them back yet - Aaron just finished them this weekend. He has posted pics of them elsewhere here so I doubt he will mind if I post them here: The lower one is a 26/26 - top one is 24/24.

Did I reply to your last PM - I cant remember?

Hey Sprockett - I really was not intending to be short with you - I think I'm turning into a grumpy old man!!! I need to check this as I think the 2836 is a different type - they look the same but the 2836 has a slightly sloping surface. No plans to do it as of yet - got too much on with the ones we are making now as there are currently 3 types on the go but if they are a success then it might be feasible to think about the 2836 as well. Again like the 2983 the parts are available in advance.

I've done four of them so far and I can now do them for the Radiomir series as well:

Not sure about a wobble in the gen - never had one to try. The stems are available from O.Frei or Cousins - not expensive. My crown is from the first batch and is 2mm. I understand the new batch of crowns are on the way.

Oh good grief - I am not having a go at anyone. Certainly I would be very [censored] off if those people who have already committed to buy one back out (as has happened many times) because a huge amount of my time and quite a lot of money has already been spent getting this far - but it's got nothing to do with that. It was simply a case of not realising that we had posted simultaneously - I though he had seen my post. Have a go by all means. Here are some pics of my previous efforts: It failed because there are such fine tolerances involved in the mechanism that to find paper thick enough to print accurately onto but thin enough to clear the mechanism was impossible. These were DVD labels and it meant shaving the thickness ot the wheel down to half (so removing the original numbers) to allow for the thickness of the paper. And as it is paper bits could snag in the teeth of the gears and jam the movt - and this is why I am trying to save him a great deal of wasted effort and possible ruining a movt (as I did my 7753 which now has no datewheel.

Sprockett - it's good of you to help but if you read through the previous posts on this you will see that I am in the process of making new 2893 datewheels printed on a Pad printing machine. I have, with another member here, already purchased a stock of 100 wheels which are away at the printers being done now - I am hoping that they will be ready within a few weeks but there have been delays while we work through some technical problems with the ongoing 7753 wheels. A year ago I experimented with exactly what you are trying (this was over at the old RWG) and while it would seem a relatively simple thing it failed which is why we are in the process of making these properly as really there is no successful way to do this other than have a printed datewheel to start with. Do you really want a piece of photo paper in a watch or the proper thing? . Trust me - this has been a year long project of mine with many many hours spent in Photoshop CS2 and Adobe Illustrator and with the correct font etc and many failures.